Via Ferrata - Protected Climbing Paths in the Dolomites - Via Ferrata Campanili di Latemar -

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Via Ferrata
Franco Gadotti

Mountain(s) / Location: Cima Dodici/Sass Aut, Valacia Group	Maximum Height: 2637 m / 8651 ft
Fletcher/Smith Rating: 2C Hofler/Werner Rating: C	[ Show on Satellite Locator Map ]

This ferrata explores a relatively quiet group of peaks that border the Val di Fassa. Along with the desirable quality of solitude, the route has lots of variety and is very scenic.

This Ferrate sections are split into 3 parts. Overall, the entire route has few steep bits here and there, and a few airy bits here and there, but mostly it is straight forward and relatively easy technically. The ferrata is split up into distinct sections with fairly long stretches of regular hiking in between.

Ferrata - Locator Map

Ferrata - detailed topo map

View from campground

The trail to the ferrata starts on the opposite side of the road from the vidor campground (trail #615) (see topo map). The trail winds through a pine forest for a long while, with the amazingly sheer rock towers of the valacia group rearing up through the early morning mists. Eventually the trail breaks out of the trees and into the steeply walled treeless valley between the peaks of the valacia massif. Here, perched on the edge of a large dropoff, is a brightly colored bivouac - empty (in October, when we went). It would be nice to camp out here in this small, wild and high valley.

One of the Vallacia Towers

Looking towards the Rosengarten

the Zeni bivouac

Shortly after the bivouac is reached, the first segment of the Via Ferrata is reached. It immediately become fairly steep, with stemples (iron rods) pounded into the rock as footholds in some of the more vertical sections. The route winds higher and higher, with more and more grandiose views to the north becoming visible. The strange straight walled sella massif is an interesting item on the northern skyline - and I've heard there are some nice Ferrata there....

start of the ferrata

ferrata warning plaque

stemples near the start of the ferrata

There are again a few vertical sections of ferrata along here, but they are well protected, the rock is very sound, and many holds abound. Between sections that are protected, a very steep grassy path switches back and forth up a narrow ravine.

view to the NE

view north to the Sella Group

view northeast to the Marmolada

a trickier section of the ferrata

from cima undici, looking straight down on campground

summit of cima undici

Eventually the route reaches the top of the ravine. At this point most of the climbing for the day is done. Ahead the summit of Cima undici (incorrectly labeled dodeci on the topo) looks fairly rounded and broad. The other sides not visible from this point, however, are extremely vertical and extremely high. Upon reaching the summit we are greeted with a superb view of the quaint town of Pozza di Fasso down below.

The Rosengarten group is very prominent across the valley to the northwest. That group is much more frequented for its hiking, climbing, and ferrata routes. Over here, it is pretty quiet.

North and literally straight down is a bird's eye view of our campground - my friend Brian and I can even spot our tent and car.

looking towards Marmolada

the town of Vigo di Fassa

the next stage : the climb to Sass Aut

The next phase of the route traverses from the summit of Cima undici to the summit of Sass Aut. the first part looks pretty straightforward - a nice easy path through springy grasses. The second parts looks much more formidable. As seen from the summit of Cima undici, a wild-looking cliff rises to the summit of Sass Aut. (look at the annotated picture above - Sections in yellow denote regular trail, and sections in red indicate via ferrata portions).

ascending Sass Aut

looking back from summit of Sass Aut

Although it looks difficult from the summit of cima undici, closer inspection reveals that, although very airy, it isn't nearly that bad. Donning our helmets, harness and ferrata lanyards, we make our way up - and it turns out to be remarkably easy and very well protected throughout.

looking towards the Rosengarten Group

looking east

Brian on summit of Sass Aut, Rosengarten in bkg

The summit of Sass Aut turns is a wonderful gentle grassy plateau with fantastic views - everywhere one looks there is a different and fabulous view. This would be an awesome place to camp (don't know if that is allowed), or to play a game of high altitude soccer, or volleyball, golf.... just make sure you don't ever go out of bounds, because this is a very steep sided plateau (as you will see in later pictures). As well, the mid October weather was perfect - nice, calm winds, maybe 20 degrees C. Also, it is about this time that we notice that we haven't seen a single soul all day. Icing on the cake....

From the summit of Sass Aut the route drops steeply off to the south. The route (ferrata section) down from Sass Aut is in a steep cleft that is about 10 metres wide at most. Partway down this cleft the ferrata winds through a neat cave, with a few vertical sections inside the cave thrown in for good measure. All is well-protected, and soon the bottom of the cleft and the end of the day's via ferrata sections. What remains is a long (but very scenic) hike, first to the highest summit of the day (punta della valacia) and then a long circuitous route back to the campground.

Andrew on summit of Sass Aut

Ferrata descent from Sass Aut - through tunnel

Near summit of Punta della Valacia

looking back over route

Summit, punta della Valacia

looking back over Sass Aut

Quick Reference Ferrate Route Index

Mountain(s)	Name of Route	Height	Difficulty1*	Difficulty2**
Latemar Group	S.A. Campanili del Latemar	2846m / 9337'	2C	B
Punta Polse	V.F. Attilio Sieff	1450m / 4757'	2A	-
Cima Dodici & Sass Aut	V.F. Franco Gadotti	2637m / 8651'	2C	C
Gran Cir / Grosse Tschierspitze	Gran Cir / Grosse Tschierspitze	2592m / 8503'	1A	A
Piz da Cir V / Tschierspitze V	Piz da Cir V / Tschierspitze V	2520m / 8267'	2A	C
Exner Tower, Sella Group	VF Brigata Tridentina (aka Pisciadu Climbing Path)	2585m / 8480'	3B	D
Little Lagazuoi	Lagazuoi Tunnels	2752m / 9028'	1A	A
Col Rosa	V.F. Ettore Bovero	2166m / 7106'	3B	E
Punta Fiammes	V.F. Michielli Strobel	2240m / 7348'	3B	D
n/a	V.F. Giovanni Barbara	1400m / 4593'	1A	C
Masare	V.F. Masare	2727m / 8946'	2B	C
Roda de Vael (Rotwand)	V.F. Roda de Vael (Rotwand)	2806m / 9205'	1B	C
Cima Auta	V.F. Paolin-Piccolin	2624m / 8608'	3B	C
n/a	V.F. Canalone	1700m / 5577'	4A	-
Colac	V.F. dei Finanzieri	2715m / 8907'	3C	E
La Mesola / Padon ridge	V.F. delle trincee	2727m / 8946'	4B	F
Piz da Lec	V.F. Piz da Lec	2910m / 9547'	3B	D
Cima di Mezzo, Cristallo Group	V.F. Marino Bianchi	3154m / 10,347'	2B	D
Brenta Group	Via delle Bocchette Centrale	2800m / 9186'	3C	D
Pasubio Group	Sentiero Attrezzato Gaetano Falcipieri	2040m / 6690'	2A	-
Monte Casale	Via Ferrata Che Guevara	1632m / 5350'	3C	-
Monte Rochetta / Piccoli Dolomiti	Via Ferrata Fausto Susatti	900m / 3000'	2A	-
Monte Rochetta / Piccoli Dolomiti	Via Ferrata del Centenario SAT	1250m / 4100'	3A	-
Monte Baldo / Piccoli Dolomiti	Via Ferrata delle Taccole	2150m / 7050'	4A	-
n/a	Sentiero Attrezzato Rio Sallagoni	400m / 1325'	4A	-
Fanes Group	Via Ferrata Cesco Tomaselli	2970m / 9733'	5C	F
Fanes Group	V.F. Tomaselli Descent Route	2970m / 9733'	3C	-
Fanes Group	V.F. al Col dei Bos / degli Alpini	2519m / 8265'	3B	-
Monte Lessini / Vicentine Alps	Via Ferrata Carlo Campalani	2157m / 7076'	3B	-
Monte Lessini / Vicentine Alps	Sentiero Alpinistico Angelo Pojesi	1967m / 6455'	2B	-
Shoulder of Cimon della Pala / Pale Group	Via Ferrata Bolver Luigi	3005m / 9860'	4C	F
Pala / Pale Group	Sentiero Attrezzato Camillo Depaoli	2326m / 7830'	1A	-
Pala / Pale Group	Sentiero Attrezzato Dino Buzzati	2500m / 8200'	2C	C
Monte Civetta / Civetta Group	Via Ferrata Alleghesi	3220m / 10,560'	4C	E
Sesto Group	Sentiero De Luca / Innerkofler	2640m / 8660'	2B	D
Sesto Group	Via Ferrata delle Scalette	2618m / 8588'	3B	D
Sesto Group	Sentiero Curato Militare Hosp	2618m / 8588'	2A	-
Sesto Group	Ferrata Nord (al Croda Rossa di Sesto)	2933m / 9624'	2B	B
Punta Anna / Tofana Group	Via Ferrata Punta Anna	2740m / 9000'	5C	F
Tofana di Mezzo / Tofana Group	Via Ferrata Gianni Aglio	3244m / 10,650'	5C	F
n/a	Via Ferrata Ivano Dibona	3008m / 9900'	2B	C
Tofana Group	Sentiero Astaldi	2303m / 7553'	1A	-
Brenta Group	Sentiero SOSAT	2449m / 8036'	2B	D
Brenta Group	Sentiero Oliva Detassis	2822m / 9260'	4B	-
Brenta Group	Sentiero Bocchette Alte	2998m / 9836'	4C	E
Brenta Group	Sentiero Afredo Benini	2901m / 9517'	2C	D

(*) Difficulty rating from the newer Cicerone Guide by Fletcher and Smith
(**) Difficulty rating from older Cicerone Guide by Hofler/Werner

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