Tomaselli Descent Route
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Fletcher/Smith Rating: 3C
Hofler/Werner Rating: -
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This page describes an alternate way to get to and from the steep and airy summit of the Punta Sud in the Fanes Group (the most notable way being the Tomaselli Ferrata
, of course). This route, known as the Ferrata Tomaselli descent route, is a reasonably stiff ferrata in its own right. It is typically used in descent, but if you aren't up to tackling the difficulties of the Tomaselli ferrata and you still want to visit Punta Sud, then this route is for you. Given that most use this route in descent, this page will describe it that way, starting from the summit of Punta Sud.
From the summit of Punta Sud, head about 20 metres to the southeast (back towards the top of the Tomaselli route). An obvious path will lead down at that point to the left (to the northeast), and in a few metres, the grade steepens and the ferrata wires start.
The route leads down over excellent rock across a broad, east-facing flank of the Punta Sud. In most places the route descends steeply-sloped terrain, but every so often there is a short steep step that you must overcome. The route is pretty much always with exposure.
There is vertical (even slightly overhanging) chimney near the bottom of the route that would be quite tricky if it weren't for some strategically-placed stemples. Below this is an airy ramp that leads down to the bottom end of the ferrata at the dirt gap of the Forcella dei Quaire.
From the forcella, a faint and somewhat braided path leads south down a very steep scree and dirt gully. Follow this down to easier terrain, eventually traversing to the right to intercept path 20-b just below Forcella Grande. In early season there will be steep snow in some of these gullies, something to keep in mind if you don't have an ice axe and proper snow skills.
Once on path 20-b, everything is straightforward. Simply follow it south as it traverses underneath the Lagazuoi Grande, passing over Passo Depot and then Passo Travenanzes, and eventually intersecting with path 402.
Follow path 402 (or simply down the grassy ski slopes) back to Passo Falzarego and the parking area.
Quick Reference Ferrate Route Index
rating from the newer Cicerone Guide by Fletcher and Smith
(**) Difficulty rating from older Cicerone Guide by Hofler/Werner