Monday, February  18, 2019
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The ferrata wire leads off horizontally to the left, and the situation is immediately quite airy. This is 'the nose' section of the Tomaselli route, and it's a good test of your liking of this route. The holds here are small and downsloping, and if you can manage this section in mountaineering boots without holding on to the wire, then you are a very good climber. Fortunately, the wire is tight and new, with little slack (as of 2010, anyway).
courtesy JInnes
The Nose
Steep Ground
Looking down, Ferrata Tomasel
After the nose section, the wire turns upward and a quite strenuous steep climb up good rock ensues. The angle relents a bit higher up, and then the wire ends. Next is a steep path with good footing. There are periodic steel eyelets driven into the ground every so often next to the path (which aren't really required for anything, as the path is quite manageable).
Intermediate Path
Intermediate Path
Walls of Punta Sud
The path continues higher, then turns back into more steep ferrata on good rock, then eventually back to steep path before reaching the base of more vertical cliffs. The path then runs along the base of the cliff -- unprotected, and with exposure -- until you reach the crest of a steep arete of rock coming down from above. Around the corner formed by the arete is a path that serves as an escape off of the route.

Also at this arete, the wire protection resumes. This marks the beginning of the final stretch of climbing to the summit.

Note: The Fletcher-Smith guide mentions a junction with another wire somewhere in this vicinity that leads left to the Cima Scotoni galleries. I didn't notice this alternative route when I climbed in the summer of 2010. It's possible that I simply missed it, however.
Exposed Ledge
Path, then wire
Start of final section
The wire starts off boldly near the crest of the arete, with lots of exposure all around. There are lots of good holds here, but that changes higher up, where there is a section that has much smaller holds and even more exposure. The wire is very firmly in place, though, so you feel well-protected. Although I don't remember the specifics of the next section, I do recall that the climb continued, often steeply and often quite strenuously, until we reached a knife-edged, very exposed arete -- The 'a cheval' stance that the Fletcher and Smith guidebook mentions.
courtesy JInnes
Steeper, Less Holds
Climbing the Last Slabs
Down to 'a cheval' stance
The position on the narrow crest is quite breathtaking. You are near the top of the Punta Sud now, and there are huge dropoffs on either side. One looks straight down on huge towers and crags from directly above.

Climbing a steeply-angled but flat wall with decent holds and lots of exposure brings you in relatively short order to the sharp-edged crest of the ridge and the ferrata suddenly ends. You've reached the top of Punta Sud!
courtesy JInnes
Final, Steep Terrain
Looking down, Tomaselli
Looking down, Tomaselli
The top of the ferrata isn't actually the very top of Punta Sud. To reach it, hike along the faint path along the now mostly-flat ridgecrest to the highpoint. Along the way, you'll see the top of the path that leads down to the descent ferrata. Remember this spot - you'll need to take it to get down.
Topping out
Punta Sud Summit
After soaking in the beauty and feeling of accomplishment on Punta Sud, prepare to head down. Keep your ferrata gear on, because the descent route is a fairly stiff via ferrata in its own right. For the description of the descent route, follow this link (it's essentially a different ferrata, and so is documented on a different page).
Interactive trackmap with photo points - VF Tomaselli - click map to view


Quick Reference Ferrate Route Index

(*) Difficulty rating from the newer Cicerone Guide by Fletcher and Smith
(**) Difficulty rating from older Cicerone Guide by Hofler/Werner
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