Hi Andrew, Great job, the new routes look great, althought most of them are to difficult for us, they are very inspiring. The photos are of an outstanding quality. What for photografic gears did you use? I nearly can't wait next June to go there. Happy New Year, Bernard The Netherlands

Thanks, Bernard. I am very glad that you find the site useful. I use almost exclusively a digital camera now. It is a Sony DSC-F707, which, although not a true digital SLR, does come with an excellent lens and has a high resolution CCD (5 Megapixels). I switched because I was finding it very slow scanning all of my color slides and cataloguing them, and also the local film developing stores were occasionally not doing a good job developing my film. ...Andrew Canada

Hi Andrew, Your idea of giving the technical details of your photographs is great. Bernard

Thanks, Bernard. Nice to know that people are looking at that data. ...Andrew

Andrew, nice site! Next time you go, give a few F & Gs a try, they're certainly longer than the lower graded routes, but still very doable for a fit, confident walker/mountineer. Also, for interest the best time to go seems to be early September when the snow has mostly gone (this can be a big problem in June and early July) and there are far fewer people but the weather is still generally good. Have fun!

Andrew Some friends and I are going to the Via Ferrate this July. Which area would you recommend we stayed in; Cortina d'Ampezzo or Madonna di Campligio (excuse the spelling!)?

Hi, Phil. You didn't supply an e-mail address so I'll have to reply to this forum and hope you will read my answer here. I've never climbed in the Brenta (ie - Madonna di Campiglio), so I can't comment on the accommodations. All of the routes that I describe are somewhere in the main mass of the dolomites, so if it is those routes that you are interested in, then I'd definitely recommend Cortina D'Ampezzo because of its location in that area. Hope this helps, ...Andrew

A friend and I are hoping to head to Italy this September to check out some of the Via Ferrata and I was wondering: Do you know of any good english Via Ferrata guide books (your site is a great start!) for Italy / Austria / France? Where did you buy your energy absorbing runner (presuming that's what you used)? How much was it? Cheers, Brad Braun (Brad_Braun@hotmail.com) PS: I've got some of my pictures at www.pbase.com/bb if you're interested! (No text though).

Hi, I was planning to do the Lagazuoi Galleries route in June. As this is a Grade A, is a harness and Petzel really required?

Hi, Hugh. No, not really. The routes are not that exposed and can be pretty safely done without a harness. However, definitely you need the headlamp, because there are a lot of long and very dark tunnels. And I'd recommend the helmet, because bashing your head against the tunnel ceiling is very very painful. Very cool place, that. ...Andrew

Hi, Brad. My only printed reference has been the Hofler/Werner book (that I refer to on my site). Otherwise I've relied on the web. I know that there are some sites that document the French ferrate. Haven't really looked too much into the Austrian ones. Besides... there are lots of good ferrate in the Dolomites to keep you busy for a good while :-) I ordered my Petzl-Y ferrate lanyards from a place in Toronto Canada called Europe Bound. I think they were about $60 CDN each. Let me know if you need any more info. ...Andrew

Hi, I just want to say: great site, and very nice and useful reports and photos! My compliments (from Italy!).

Grazie!

Hi Andrew, This is a really great site with some great pics! We are going to Dolomites in August and our operator is offering a book called "Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites vol1 " by two of their resident staff John Smith & Graham Fletcher published by Cicerone. It is ?in UK and can be obtained from Colletts (the tour operator), contact www.colletts.co.uk. I haven't seen a copy and I don't work for Colletts! Considering the paucity of info available in english I hope some will find this info. of use.

Oops! Price of book is ?

Ivor, Heading out to Arabba with Collets this Friday (25th) for a week so we might just overlap! The Cicerone guide should be available "at any good outdoor shop", my son found a copy for me earlier this year in Brighton, price ~?I think but it looks good and informative. There are also route descriptions at http://www.dolomiti.org/dengl/cortina/ce/ceman/index.html so take a look and enjoy your trip, Iain

Is there a guidebook out there for the Austrian Via Ferratas? Karen_tuson@hotmail.com

hmm... not that I know of myself, Karen. Wouldn't be surprised if there were several in German though. ...Andrew

Didn't meet Ivor! but had a great week. Some of the Via Ferrata photos are appearing at www.thehoggs.smugmug.com Feel free to take a look

What's the latest you can go to the Dolomites in the summer before the weather closes in? - do you know how long the huts stay open for (or is it all year round)?

Hi, Paul. Good question. Well, one year I went in early October and the mountains were pretty much in summer (ie- no snow) conditions. no problems. Then the next year I went at the end of September and a rare early snowstorm covered everything in half a meter of snow. Made things much trickier! So I guess it depends. As far as the huts go, I find that most are open till the 3rd week of September or so, and some later. If you poke around on the web, you can find out how long certain places are open. And some places are available all the time, like the bivaccos (I think they are, anyway). Hope this helps, ...Andrew

hi everybody, I??ike to post the recommendation for new portal of Vie Ferrate. On http://www.via-ferrata.de you??find a lot of vie ferrate in the alpes. moreover you have the possibility to comment each Via Ferrata. I??also be glad if you give me some hints to some vie ferrate and send me fotos to routes that are not listed yet. Enjoy your time at Via-Ferrata.de, Best Regards, Ralf (Webmaster Via-Ferrata.de)

HI, Does anyone know if there are winter rooms attatched to the Brenva huts, open in October? Cheers Andrew

Andy, happened to stumble upon your site after doing a search on via ferrata and what a pleasure it was to. Just to compliment yourself on the quality of the photographs and the quality descriptions. Keep up the excellent work as the closest I will get to climing one is viewing this site (VERTIGO WIMP!)

Hi, Chris Thanks for the compliments on the web site. And, you never know, if you try one of the easy ferrate you might just get hooked, vertigo and all (a solid steel cable and a well-attached harness can do wonders for your confidence!) ...Andrew

hello! I'm french and happy writing you about via ferrata. there are two countries for ferrata :Italy and France.The others(swiss for example) are highest and expensive. In France,some of them can be made all the year:Aussois(Savoie)Grenoble(Isere),etc... We can find very difficult ferrata:Th?? (Savoie)and Crolles and grenoble(second section);also very easy ferrata:Aillon le Jeune (Savoie),St Julien Beauch?(gorges d'Agnielles)... In Italy the more difficult:Sarche (Rino Pisetta) and Mori near lago di Garda (a lake in south dolomites).All the others are less difficult and very beautiful!!!In dolomites the choice is very large:about 200 ferrata if I don't make mistake. Good discover and bye bye !

just found your site and your pics brought back many happy memories of june 2003 in arraba. i climbed two of the ferratas on your index and found the pisciadu path exceelent. i am hoping to go back this year and i am looking forward to having a go at the col rosa. excellent photos!

hi, we are trying to get into Via Ferrata, we own some property with a Gorge and i have some technical questions: How far apart are "stops" that hold the cable? should i use the same distance i would use for trad-climbing? How are some ways (cheap and ultra-safe) that i can get the "staples" (steps). and what is the "ingeneer" description on those (as in lenght and how to install them) I would appretiate any help...

Hi there. I personally know nothing about the actual construction techniques, but my observation is that the protection points are usually not more than 10 metres apart, and in some places (tricky sections) they are much closer together (<5m apart). ...Andrew

Thanks for your insight, if you have any other info as how to do it or somebody you know we could ask specifics it would be great. Thanks man Juan Carlos

Firstly, great site and very helpful. Three of us from England are going to the Dolomites this September to climb some ferrate for the 1st time. Basically a few quick questions; do you need a car to travel from one to another different climbs or is there plenty of public transport? is there plenty of places to camp that are open in Sept? Any other top tips for 1st timers like ourselves? e mail - ricbarberuk@yahoo.co.uk

Hi, Ric. I never really looked too closely when I've been in the dolomites, but there may indeed be a regional bus-line. Certainly there are some municipal ones in the larger communities (e.g. Cortina D'Ampezzo). However, for many routes, the starting locations are a bit out of the way down some little track or less-oft-used road, and I don't recall seeing bus stop markers on those. As for camping, yes, you will be able to find that many of them are open. They'll be at the end of their season, too, and won't be very full at all. September is a great time to go - not crowded and [usually] still nice weather. ...Andrew

Hello, My husband and I want to experience some vie ferrate/klettersteig this summer. We are rock climbers but with little Alpine experience. We are both pretty fit and reasonably strong, but I do get a little spooked by vicious unprotected exposure. Can you recommend a good place to start (not too easy, not too difficult), and any basic tips about what to do and not to do (other than the obvious things like taking the right gear, avoiding thunderstorms), and what are the best times of year? Any help greatly appreciated. Regards Catherine

Hi, Catherine I do know that there are some ferrata that are not completely and thoroughly protected, and I haven't been on those [yet] so I can't comment on them. But on the ones I have been on they have all been fully and thoroughly protected, and I got a very good feeling of security. If you are already used to exposure, then the pisciadu climbing path has plenty of that but is very well protected. Other good ones (but short) are Col Rosa and Pta Fiammes. Actually, now that I think of it, the Masare/Rotwand one is nice too.... I think September is probably the best time of the year to go. Nice weather (usually) and few people. ...Andrew

Hello, Andrew Thanks for your reply to my last note. Most interesting. As we have not done ferrate before, we are thinking of perhaps having someone guide us the first couple of days or so to make sure we don't have any epics! In the areas you've mentioned, which sound good, would you know how one would locate good guides? (I think we'd not be going much beyond a grade 3 at this stage but would hope to progress...) Kind regards Catherine

Hi again. I don't personally know of any guides, although I'm sure there are some. in the area. So I unfortunately can't give you any information about that. However, if you are willing to go out on a limb a little bit, and have a little time, try a 'B'-class Ferrata (on the scale given in the Hofler/Werner guide). or even an 'A'-class Ferrata. With these I am pretty sure you'll have no problems (assuming of course that you are a reasonable capable walker). And there is nothing like a little experience under your belt to give you a good sense of what your limits and capabilities are. Hope all goes well for you, ...Andrew

Fantastic site Andrew, and a real boon for us planning our first VF trip this summer. As they say, keep up the good work....!

Andrew, very useful to find your site, my German/Italian is not up to some of the other ones. We too are a couple of newcomers to VF and are not of an age where we fancy getting it wrong on our own. We came across a perfect VF in the Tyrol last summer, going beyond a magnificent waterfall in the wide part of the Otz valley north of Solden. It was enough to temp us but without the right kit, rather frustrating to have to leave it. Should we try to find guides, or are there companies or groups that do basic courses in VF? Where doesn't matter, as long as they are reliable/safe etc. Cheers, Simon.

Hi there. I personally don't know any guiding services, but my impression is that yes, there are several. The most important thing to have is a proper shock-absorbing safety restraint (e.g. Zyper-Y from Petzl), a harness, and a helmet. And to use them properly, of course, which is not hard at all. ...Andrew

Hi there, first let me congratulate you on such an excellent site! There are many confusing sites on the web about Via Ferrata however as a beginners guide I've been enjoying the forum. We headed out to Venice and eventually Arabba. We went with Collett's mountain Holidays (www.colletts.co.uk) who operate in Arabba and Pedraces, in the Central Dolomites. Whilst they don't offer guided VF's they do organise two Ferrata's, five days a week (they also organise various grades of walking) and if we wanted to do anything extra (glacier routes etc.) they were happy to organise it for us. We also went canyoning and on Cortina?Taxi-Bob?ich is a bobsled with wheels. In fact their wealth of information was so valuable to us we ended up having the best holiday ever! We have been back to the Dolomites with them for two years running. There are two new guidebooks produced for the Dolomites - which was actually written by two of Collett's staff - VIA FERRATAS OF THE ITALIAN DOLOMITES: VOL 1 and 2 (John Smith & Graham Fletcher) They have updated the grading system to make it less ambiguous and updated all the routes. When we were using the Hoffler/Werner we found many of the descriptions out of date and unusable, the text was a translation of a ten-year-old guide. Camping is certainly possible in the central Dolomites, the Brenta and the South Tyrol - however the costs in Italy can be pretty high. Some campsites are open in September and as Andrew says it certainly a good time to go. Collett?ccommodation was reasonably priced and they were happy to organise everything but our flight. Which we found on with Easy-Jet. We have booked again for this summer and can?ait until June! I must also recommend another website www.trailzone.co.uk. Which has some great info and photos of Via Ferrata. Keep up the good work Andrew, Best regards, Andrew Chandler

Great site! Seems that most trips reported have been in September. Any hints for easier VF trips that might be reasonable 2nd week in June? (I know this is a stretch).

Dear Bill, Early June is a great time to go and it's worth the risk of there being a little snow about. We went at the end of May last year (to Pedraces in the Dolomites) and had a subperb time. There was still a fair bit of snow around on the north faces but in 10 days we managed to get out on 6 via ferratas. The weather was warm and sunny. Most of the via ferrata had good access and were not too snowy on the summits, well we didn't need to use an ice axe or crampons! The routes are quiet in June as the main part of the summer season hasn't kicked in yet. However there were plenty of places open and restaurants to eat in. As long as you have a car access to all the ferrata is within an hours drive. We flew to Munich but the drive to the Dolomites was quite long - I think next time we would fly to Venice. We stayed in a self-catering chalet with Colletts - they have a great website - http://www.colletts.co.uk/ - Also the trailzone website detailed above is enough to whet your appetite! regards - Alan

Does anyone know if it is essential to have an ice axe with you in the brenta? Broschetti (sp?) way?

Hi ?? reply to Bill My husband and I frst went to the Dolomites two years ago in the last week of June 2002, The weather was great yet not too hot or humid as it is down near Venice. We found the Cicerone guidebook hard to use and not greatly accurate. We started off in the Val Gardena and then headed to Corvara, Both of which are great bases, however they can both get very busy and Corvara was a little manufactured and very clean-cut. We got a lot done but found that we spent a lot of time sorting out what we were doing and where we were going. We went again last year with Colletts and got a lot more done. We stayed in their Chalet Valentin on a half board basis. We then didn?ave to worry about food ??eat breakfasts in the sun and a lovely 3 or 4 course meal in the evening. I would really recommend Colletts. The staff were a lot of fun and made us feel right at home. We also managed to go mountain biking and make use of the cable car system.

Hi, Jon. I've never been to the Brenta, but in any case I imagine the answer to your question (about needing an ice ax) is more dependant on what time of the year you go. If early to mid-season, I'd say yes, and if later in the season or at the end (early in the fall) then no. ...Andrew

Thanks Andrew, Sorry - how stupid of me! I meant to say in June. I've Just got 'Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 2' which covers the Brenta and reccomends that you should take an ice axe as a matter of course all year round. I will be flying to Venice then spending a week in Arabba then I will drive over to the Brenta. Great website by the way! big respect - jon

To all, Myself and some friends are going to Cavalese in the Val Di Fiemme area of Italy this summer and are very keen to do some Via Ferrata routes. this will be the first time we have done something on this scale and i was wondering what sort of equipment is required. any information that you can provide will be very much appreciated as well as any good routes you care to recomend. Many Thanks Chris

Will be going for the 1st time in Aug /Sept. Thougt of going around Cortina as we want to do a bit more sporty stuff. Are there any easy VFs around this area or are we better trying somewhere else. We wnat to start easy & work our way up.

Hi there... I hear that the Tofane have some sporty routes, although longer and higher (have not been on them myself). For shorter sporty routes, Col Rosa and Punta Fiammes are nice - but as I said, kind of short. ...Andrew

Hi Chris - get in touch with Collett's (www.colletts.co.uk - I think) their wealth of information in resort is great, we really hit the ground running with them. And their deals were very reasonable. If you really want to start off in Via Ferrata then I think the central Dolomites would be best for you! Cavalese is all well and good but it?lap bang in between the two mountain ranges you want to be in. If you are a beginner then the Brenta may be too hard for you, as Via Ferrata here really means Hut-to Hut! In the central Dolomites most routes are day routes and range in grade from 1A right up to 5C all within a driving time of around an hour if you position yourselves well. This should give you a good range if you are a beginner. See www.trailzone.co.uk. As for sporty routes around Cortina the Strobel on Fiames certainly isn?hort! It is a committing mountain day. The actual climbing on the Col Rosa is short but extremely exposed (if you are not a climber) and again a mountain day. There are sport climbing routes but a little local knowledge is useful in finding them. Get the new Cicerone guidebook VIA FERRATAS OF THE ITALIAN DOLOMITES: VOL 1. Good Luck. Fred.

Andrew, Thank you for the information placed on your website. Amazing site. You should start publishing. I am planning a trip to Italy this September with my wife and 18 month old daughter. Both my wife and I are in good shape and are avid hikers. I have a small amount of climbing experience having climbed Mount St. Helens in Washington, USA. My compass / navigation skills are good. My plan is to do a 3 day hike starting in Cortina d?ezzo and using rifugi for two nights accommodations. We will be flying into Venice and will be taking public transportation to Cortina so a linear path is possible. I would like to do this hike independently with my family as opposed to with a guide or group. A few questions for you. 1. Can you recommend an appropriate path that will provide the most variety and the best scenery? 2. I would like to be as aggressive as possible while keeping in mind that I will have my 18 month old daughter on my back using a child carrier pack (are any of the Via Ferrara routes possible?) Regards, Armen Kulidjian Toronto, Ontario, Canada P.S. Do you live in Toronto (you suggested Europe Bound in Toronto for some equipment), if so, I would like to hookup for a drink to discuss further.

Hi, Armen Thanks for the compliments on the web site. Sounds like you'll have an amazing trip. You could stick to the A,B, and C-difficulty paths with your baby (and make sure that your baby is very adequately tied in with you and your harness!!). Now, I've been on Ds and Es in the Cortina area, but not easier ones. From my guidebook, though, I can see that a path called the Ivano Dibona High-level Path (level C) looks quite interesting. Also the Lagazuoi galleries is an easy 'A' (although not right at Cortina), and quite interesting (this one I have done). I don't know quite enough about the area to suggest a continuous path that links ferrata, but if you get the Tabacco maps of the Cortina area and look at them closely, you will surely be able to find a path, that includes ferratas, that traverses several huts. (Omni resources in the states sells these topo maps of the dolomites: http://www.omnimap.com/catalog/hiking/tabacco.htm) hope this is of use. ...Andrew

Hello! I'm french ferratist.I want to say how I'm very happy to see beautiful pictures in the dolomits: Barbara,Masare,Rotwand ferrate. Thanks for those who take them! Also,map and description are interesting. I like Andrew's site because it give me new and more informations than french site ferrata.Thanks again!!! Bye bye.

Hi My new wife and I heading to the Dolomites from Venice while on our honeymoon in mid June. We plan to spend about 4 days on Via Ferratas. We don't really feel like lugging our harnesses and helmets all the way from Australia, then buying two Zyper-Y's when we get there. Is hire gear readily available, and what is the typical daily cost? Also in mid June I am a little concerned about a lot of routes being closed due to snow and ice. Any suggestions from anyone on a good area to concentrate on that would be good at that time of year. We are raw beginners at Via Ferrata but are experienced scramblers and beginner to intermediate level rockclimbers. I was thinking of Cicerone Guides Grades 1 and 2, maybe a Grade 3. My email address is johnhinz@optusnet.com.au. A good website and very handy for someone planning a trip. John

Well, I have heard of hiring gear, but I don't know the specifics. I'd think a larger center (e.g. Cortina) would have such a thing in their climbing shops, but don't quote me on that. As for snow and ice early in the year, you could just focus on the lower routes. Just pick something lower than 2000m (the Cicerone guide has a few) and then while doing those, you will probably get an idea of how the higher terrain is looking, snow-wise.

from Aruges to John: hello! effectivly there are very few shops in Dolomits for hiring gear about via ferrata,because Italians guides want to work with tourists.A via ferrata with guide cost about 40 or 50 euros /person according the difficulty of the via. But you have a chance for hiring gear in Canazei.I visited a shop where there is all material for via or climbing. In Cortina I didn't discovered anyone! Many ferratas are open all the year whatever the weather or the season,and not very difficult;for example:Lagazuoi tunnel (passo falzarego)near Cortina; torre di Toblin (tre cime di Lavaredo)near Misurina;sentiero Innerkofler(tre cime Lavaredo);brigata tridentina (passo Gardena) near Colfosco,and so on ... Good trip in june !

Hi! no news,good news!that's what French say. Nobody with ideas or photos on this site? it's really sad! perhaps bad weather is the reason? A question to make some discussion:are there in Great Britain ferratas ? Thanks for your answer. Jerry.

Can anyone supply current snow-pack conditions? We're headed out next weekend for only a couple of days in the mountians and would like to plan accordingly... Big snow year, cold spring...so keep below 2000m and south face only? Lean snow yeay, early melt off...High north faces OK??? Who's been out this year?

Hi Andrew, Nice site! We're thinking of doing Ferrata Brigita Tridentina in a couple of weeks (12th June). I'm just wondering what time of year you did it, and if there was much snow around. Don't want to have to lug crampons and axes all the way up the hill. Thanks, Mucco

Hi there, and thanks. I've only been in the dolomites in the September / October timeframe. In this particular case, there's little to no old snowpack left, although there is always the chance of a bit of fresh new snow if you are unlucky. If the weather has been recently nice when you go, you probably can omit the crampons and ice ax.

Hello Mucco! You can do ferrata Brigata tridentina in July watehever the weather. If unfortunatly snow will be present, it will not be a problem for climbing,it will be present on the top and descent.In that case an ice axe and good shoes are the only things to have with ourselve. good ferrata!

Andrew, Wow, great site. I have multiple Dolomite and via ferrata books and have found some great sites but am a bit overwhelmed by options at the moment. Here's our deal; my wife (ex-climber) and I will be in Rome with our infant in Oct. We're going to head up to the Dolomites for a few days for me to get some climbing in. What I'm looking for is easy access to good mid-level climbing (via ferrata). She's looking for a comfortable refugio or inn to relax in while I'm running about the hills. Any suggestions on a location? Everytime I go on line or open books I get overwhelmed with options. Thanks a ton, Jeff jeff "at" tolandnet.com

Hi, Jeff Well, I can only comment on the climbs I've already done. Anything on my web site that is 'C', 'D', or 'E' rated I've found to be mid-range (although that is subjective). The rifugio up on top of the Pisciadu climbing path is quite nice, based on my visit.

Thanks for the advice, I think I'll bring an axe. M

Hello Jeff! October is a difficult month looking for opened refuges! Here are middle difficult ferratas: -F.Oscar Schuster;Sasso Lungo moutain;San Cristina city, rifugio Passo Sella (near the road). - F.torre Toblin; Tre Cime Lavaredo moutain,Cortina city,rifugio Auronzo(paying road). - F. Innerkofler; same adress than upon. - F. Lagazuoi (tunnel climbing or descending as you like),rifugio Lagazuoi(near the road),few km from Cortina. Good ferratas!

Hi Andrew, First congratulations on a great site, very informative. I wounder if you can help. At the end of June we have a four day trip to Dolomites to do some VF. If possible we would like to to a 4 day ciruit back to the starting point(car). We want to stay high and camp/hut over night without desending to low. Can you suggest any areas that would fit the bill? Any advice on camping? Should we take ice axe and crapons? Grateful for your help. Dan

Hi Andrew, First congratulations on a great site, very informative. I wounder if you can help. At the end of June we have a four day trip to Dolomites to do some VF. If possible we would like to to a 4 day ciruit back to the starting point(car). We want to stay high and camp/hut over night without desending to low. Can you suggest any areas that would fit the bill? Any advice on camping? Should we take ice axe and crapons? Grateful for your help. Dan

Dan, I am currently planning a 3 day "Get up, stay high" via ferrata trip to the Brenta group which is ideal for this kind of thing. You can easily extend the hut to hut trip to four or five days to do all the ferrata in this region (there are about 6 in the Brenta, a few of which are highly recommended). Some of the ferrata cross hanging glaciers so its bast to take ice axe and crampons. I have been to the Dollys a couple of times in late June / early July and found the weather to be pretty variable - snow at altitude one day then then hot sun the next. If you fancy the Brenta then a quick way up is on the Groste Cableway from Madonna di Campiglio. Enjoy! Andrew, top site. Good man!

Hello! does anybody knows what moutain collapse in dolomits on May end or June beginning ? This information given by Channel NEWS on T.V.was so fast that I couldn't understand anything ! It seemed it was a famous site. I did looking for on Italians newspaper on the web but I discovered nothing. I think it's not a hoax! Thanks.

Hi there, I know that the Dolomites is THE place for Via ferrata but I'm actually in the region of Marche and I heard there where Via ferrata routes in the Gran Sasso park... I'm just asking in case someone knows what I'm talking about.. Information would be really appreciated Thanks ! Climb high :)

A friend and I are heading to the Dolomites in August. We will be flying in from London but at the moment I am overwhelmed with all the information and don't know where to start. Can anyone tell me 1.) where to fly into in the area? Cortina? Or another location 2.) Which area should we base ourselves out of if we just want to do small day trips and spend some time in local villages? 3.) Is a car necessary? 4.) Can we hire the gear there, if not what should be bring with us? Sorry for the ignorant questions, but there is TOO much to process. Any responses either on here or to my email would be greatly appreciated as I don't know where to start. Many thanks c_neidhardt@hotmail.com

Hello Cath, I'll try to answer at your questions if I've right understood ! 1?hat fly? is it an airport you are looking for? There are airports near Venezia :Mestre (few miles to Venezia);Treviso (north Mestre),Verona (south Garda lake). But you must rent a car for visiting dolomits! 2?ch area basing? :Riva del garda (west dolomits),campsites,beautiful lake, the greatest. Ortisei (tyrol houses,sculpted wood,funicular). Canazei (tyrol houses,funicular). Cortina. 3?r necessary of course!!!! 4?'s better to have your own climbing harness because rare sport shops hiring. Other advices:moutain shoes,pull over,impermeable cloth,helmet. I don't know if my answer is comprehensible ?

Hi Jeff, You might want to try he "Angelo Dibona" refuge. It is open year round, it is relatively low in the Tofana Massif (at the foot of the Tofana di Rozes) very close to Cortina and with auto access. They offer excellent meals and comfortable accomodations although keep in mind this is just a refuge. In Tofana you have the Lipella VF which is an excellent, very long via ferrata although not very difficult (in bad weather you may have orientation difficulties since not all VF is protected). Then there is VF Olivieri-Tofana di Mezzo with a very airy passage, also long. By car you can reach easily Passo Falzarego, take the tram to Lagazuoi and go after VF Tomaselli which, IMO, is an excellent VF, not very long but very exposed and well protected. In Cortina you have the Strobel and Col Rosa VF close to the town and nice but not very demanding. On the Monte Cristallo there are VF Marinelli, short but with great views, and Sentiero Attrezzato Ivano Dibona, long but easy with great sightseeing. Regards, Eugen

Hello, Myself and a few friends are heading out to do some ferratas and a bit of climbing at the end of September/beginning of October. By the sounds of it the weather may either be nice and summery, or cold and wintery. We won't have crampons or ice axes with us, and I was wondering how restricted we'll be if it's cold and wintery? We're planning to go to the Arabba/Corvara/Cortina area (haven't sorted out accomodation yet. We'll have a car, so will be able to move around, I was just wanting to check that there will be stuff that isn't iced up, that we'll be able to do. Cheers, Chris BTW. Great website - really useful stuff, and nice pictures too. Makes me look forward to my hols!

Hi, I am going for a motorbike holiday in the dolomites in beg of sept and would like to take part in a Via Ferrate - i have contacted by mail some guides and Alpine guide Cantores has suggested the Tridentina - after seeing some of Andrews pics i am a bit apprehensive as i have never done any climbing so this will be my first try - what level of fitness do you have to be and do you need any particular experience for this ferrata - any information would be appreciated Regards from Malta

Andrew, Love your site. I climbed Col Rosa last month and would love and 8X10 picture. Could you tell me how to get a copy. I would be glad to buy a copy for framing. Cordell CEsplin@mac.com

To Andrew & all, We are planning a trip in later May and early June. Can you recomend any Via Ferrata routes that may be snow free that time of year? Are there huts in that area? Do we need to reserve space in them? Thanks, Lance Lancedtaysom@juno.com

I got the answer for my own question , tue jun 22,on Andrew'site: It was Trephor tower (one of the five towers,cinque torri,a very known climbing site,near Cortina ),which collapsed on april 2004. I was in dolomits in august and saw the rocks of the fallen tower.

Andrew, Cracking site. I might be optimistic, but I'm looking for a route in the Dolomites accessible in a weekend. I'd like to take my fiance, who is learning to climb but has excellent balance and a good head for heights, and tackle a route that is challenging without being over the top. Perhaps a 'c'. Can you recommend an area where we could get to a route quite quickly and easily from a roadhead - we can fly/drive to most mountain areas without much drama. Thanks, Michael (mick_mccourt@hotmail.com)

Hi there, Michael. Well, I can only speak for the routes I've done, so, I'd have to say that the Punta Fiammes is likely your best bet, or maybe the Col Rosa ferrata. Both short and readily accessible not far from the road just north of Cortina D'Ampezzo. I know, they are rated 'D' and 'E', but really, I don't think they are all that bad. They are steep in places, but if you have a good head for heights, you will manage fine. They are well protected in all places where they need to be. ...Andrew

Andrew,
My wife and I are going to the region in late August, early September. Thank goodness I stumbled across your site! If there was one town/village you would recommend for a week's medium-level hike - circular or linear - could you give us an additional handout, please? When are you going to publish that book or incorporate your site into a guide book like Lonely Planet or The Rough Guide, neither of which have much information on the area?
Cheers again,
Dougie

Hi, Dougie.

I haven't done any long multi-day ferrata outings myself. The most well-known one that comes to mind is the bochette ferrata in the Brenta section of the dolomites (which I've never been to).

Regarding the book, I used an existing guide book, which is quite good called 'via ferrata, scrambles in the dolomites', written by hoefler/werner. I hear there is a new version out, and I hear it is good. I think that would be your best bet for a guidebook.

I too am thinking of returning and trying out some new ferrata this year in late summer. Maybe we'll bump into each other!

...Andrew

All about via ferrata you??find on
http://www.via-ferrata.de

kind regards, Ricardo

Hi Andrew, Congrats on a great sight - shame that I only discovered it now rather than a year ago prior to first visit! Going back for more at end July 05 and plan to include trip to the Brenta region for 3 or 4 days. Anyone got recommendations/advice on Riffugios and routes in this area (I think that 4C is my "glass ceiling").

Best Regards,
Steve

Hi, Steve

Glad you like the site. I've never been to the Brenta region (not yet, in any case!), so I can't comment on the rifugios any more than what's in the various guidebooks. I'm hoping to do a bit of ferrata-ing in the summer, maybe I'll visit that area then.

Andrew

Interesting site, hope you can help. Appologies in advance - I'm hoping to draw on your knowledge of the area from the lay tourist perspective. At the beginning of June, my husband and I are hoping to ride the cable to Lagazuoi (I understand it's not open on the 4th to sleep) for the afternoon view and catch the last ride down (I think 5pm).

My question is: is it feasable to be able to drive then to Rifugio Auronzo, park, and then comfortably walk to Rifugio Lavaredo to stay the night, all before sunset (or at least early evening weather permitting)??

Many thanks,
Pat

Great Job! This is by far the best web site about Via Ferrate that I have found.

Are there many outfitters/rental places near the various VF, for I would rather rent a shock absorber than shell out the money for someting that I will probably use only once or twice?

I will be there in late May/early June, and that might affect whether or not these places (if any) are even open.

Lastly, is this something that you wouldn't reccommend renting for safety reasons?

OK, I lied...One more thing. At this time of year, do you think crampons and ice axes are a must? I gather that this is trail dependent, so let's assume we are speaking about a typical C or D- if that helps.

Thanks so much in advance.

David

Hi there. To answer the last two posts....

1) I haven't been to the abovementioned rifugios, so unfortunately I don't have the answer to that question. Perhaps someone else reading this forum?

2) I _think_ that some sports shops carry them for rental. At least that's my vague recollection. I'd do a good inspection of them, of course. And in late May / early June I'd definitely go for crampons and ice axes. I bet there will be (in places) lots of snow and ice.

Dear Andrew:

First Great Site! - but need help as I will be visiting Cortina D'Ampesso for a week and I am staying at the Faloria. This is my first trip to this area and I am interested in some climbs. Although I have problems with heights - that problem will go away if I can be hooked in (I have the fear I will jump not fall!). I have done ladders and some minor hand climbing. I will be hiking alone and am only interested in day trips of 4-8 duration.

Dear Andrew:

First Great Site! - but need help as I will be visiting Cortina D'Ampesso for a week and I am staying at the Faloria. This is my first trip to this area and I am interested in some climbs. Although I have problems with heights - that problem will go away if I can be hooked in (I have the fear I will jump not fall!). I have done ladders and some minor hand climbing. I will be hiking alone and am only interested in day trips of 4-8 duration. And will I need the gear mentioned in the other posts, etc. (I do not mind buying and bringing). Or do you recommend that I get a guide and if so - suggestions and approximate costs.

May I thank you in advance for helping me get a foothold on this.

Joe Bob Hugh

Hi there.

Well, you'll definitely want a harness and a ferrata belay device if you have a tendency to jump! As far as the rest of it goes - definitely a helme. The ice ax and crampons are probably only necessary early in the year and/or on especially high routes or known-to-be-snowy routes (e.g. marmolada, etc).

Also I'd stick with routes that have no exposed gaps in the protection. some do. Whether or not this is the case is covered in most guidebooks.

thanks.

Joe Bob- As I find out info I will post.

please can anyone advise whether VF are suitable for children aged 10 and 12 very fit and energetic and sensible. if so which ones would you suggest?

My suggestion for kids:

-make sure they use all the proper safety equipment
-start off with an 'A' or '1' ferrata (depending on which guidebook's difficulty rating you are using) e.g. Grosse Tschierspitze or something like that
-progress up from there depending on how your kids react. Choose ferrate that have continuous wire protection for exposed bits if you want to avoid unprotected scrambling.

great site. i have only recently even heard of via ferrata (hence, this question): are the routes 'one way'?

in other words, are some people going in one direction while others are going another? many of the routes you document appear to be loops and i was just curious if you encounter people travelling in the opposite direction that you are (or is that verboten?).

thanks and great job on this site...

patrick

Hi there

No, routes are not specifically one way, from what I can tell. Typically they are done going 'up' (if it is a route that is not a traverse, that is). However, there is no rule about going 'down' a ferrata.

...Andrew

Hi Andrew,

It's been a long time since my last post (2003). Have you been in the Dolomites since then?
Last year we went to the Brenta. A real wonderful mountain group.
We are going back (over 3 weeks) to the Dolomites for the 5th time. We will stay in Vigo di Fassa (2d time) for 3 weeks.
I have one question. Do you know where I can get digital maps of the regions: Rosengarten, Latemar, Sella, Sassolungo, Marmolada.
I'm looking for topo map at 1:25000.
Any ideas???

Thx,
Bernard

Hi there.

Good to hear that you are returning to the Dolomites. So am I, actually - I plan to be there in mid-July.

As for digital topo maps... I wish I knew! I wouldn't mind having some myself. The best I can suggest is to get the tabaccao maps and scan them in!

...Andrew

Andrew,

Where are you going this time?
I already started to scan some portions of the Tabacco maps 1:25000. But that's a tedious job. I use Oziexplorer to plan my trips and visualize the tracks.

Bernard

lots of information about vie ferrate I have found occasionally on

http://www.via-ferrata.de

Hi
Taking a trip for 8 of us to do some ferrata in Corvarra then the Brenta. However will need to hire 6 lanyards/helmets/harnesses from a central shop - Riva,Rovereto or Trento would be ideal places unless Verona has a shop (we're flying there) Would be very grateful for a contact

Hi Kev,

For Corvara, I don't know if you can hire gears, but in Canazei (at the foot of the Sella group), I know there're a few real good specialized shops.
In Trento you've got Sportler (Mountain gears, 3th floor).
Also in Trento, the headquarter of the SAT (Societ?egli Alpinisti Tridentini), maybe they can help you further:

Societ?egli Alpinisti Tridentini
via Manci, 57 - 38100 Trento (Italia)
tel. 0461 981871
fax. 0461 986462
Opening hours: from monday to friday: 8 - 12am and 15 - 19pm
http://www.sat.tn.it/Home/


Good luck,
Bernard

Hi all...

Anyone know what the likelihood of free spots at the various bivacchi is in July? I'm trying to get an idea of how much they are used and when.
When I last visited in the fall, they seemed always empty. But maybe it is different in the summer.

...Andrew

Hi there,

Looking for people who want to share a trip to Corvara/Arabba area for cheap week of via ferratas 13/20th Aug,if interested please email me on Lynn@advs.fsnet.co.uk

Hi there,

Looking for people who want to share a trip to Corvara/Arabba area for cheap week of via ferratas 13/20th Aug, spent 4 months in 2004 exploring Dolomites, ascending many routes from moderate to the most technically demanding grades. If interested please email me on Lynn@advs.fsnet.co.uk

Hi Andrew, nice site though I have one or two comments. One correspondent asked about hiring gear in Corvarra. This is easily done -Sport Kostner in the main street are always helpful. If they run out of hire gear then there's another climbing shop in Arraba a few miles away at the other end of Passo Compolnga however when hiring the shock absobtion devices it's important to know which kind it is.

You're right when you say that with the "Zyper" type both carabiners are attached to the cable however with the older (and still very common)lanyard only one caribiner is attached to the cable; the other one is clipped out of the way, usually to the harness, - you only have two carabiners on at the same time when clipping from one stretch of cable to another otherwise the KISA cannot work. John Smith and Graham fletcher give a clear account of "how to" in VIA FERRATAS of the ITALIAN DOLOMITES - which is itself a worthwhile investment.

Also one correspondent was thinking about carrying a small child and one recommendation was the Ivan Dibano climbing path - this is a great route which features the longest suspension bridge in the Dolomites (it features in CLIFFHANGER) and, while not technically difficult, the top is frequently iced up as it starts at the top of the Monte Cristallo ridge so care would have to be taken. Falling with a small chld on your back would be similar to having a big sac on -recovery is difficult! Anyway, good luck

Hello Andrew,
Compliments for this great site, impressive pictures.
Do you know where i can find info's on VF in the Pyrenees?
Thanks
Michel

Hi there.

Unfortunately, I don't personally know anything about vie ferrate in the pyrenees, but perhaps someone else reading this forum can comment.

...Andrew

Hi Andrew
Wondering if you can give me some information please. My Partner and I are heading out to Cortina at the end of this month to camp and do some via ferrata. Are there any climbing shops in Cortina that hire out the gear - full body harness and belay system. Many thanks. Sheila.

Hello everybody !
In N.-W. moutains alps there are ironways in beautifuls countries around Aoste main valley, near switzerland and french frontiers.
In Gressoney valley : ferrata Angster level: D ; and ferrata delle guide, level F.
In Valtournenche valley, ferrata del Gorbeillon, level: D.
They are near the same name villages , about 10-15 mn approach, 1 to 2 hours climbing, 15 to 30 mn for coming back, and 1600 to 1800 m top altitud.
Good climbing !

Hi there,

Just a helpful note:
After just returning from yet another week doing the VF's in the Dolomites - the good news is that the normal descent route from the Summit of Punta Penia down to the Marmolada Glacier is now cabled.
They were finishing it off on Friday 15th July - As we were descending it!

This now avoids the airy unprotected downclimb and abseil.

You will still need a length of rope for the Glacier descent as it is very broken and has some big cravasses!

Anybody know of the nearest VF to Torino please?
I'll be staying there in mid September and don't have long to climb but wonder if there are any VFs in the western edge of the Dolomites.
All information greatfully received.

hello!
effectively there are many vias ferratas near Torino:
-in the north-west corner Alps ,Aosta valley:
1 Gressoney st jean ferrata Jos?ngster
2 Gressoney la trinit?errata delle guide
3 Valtournenche ferrata gorbeillon
4 santuario Oropa (monastery) ferrata del limbo and ferrata of monte Mars.
5 Valgrisenche ,Morgex, ferrata Hans Marguerretaz.
Also others in the Aosta valley south: Susa valley near highway.
If you want more informations about them tell me.

...for making a lovely forum so that people like me don't panic when alll they can find is the translated VF route book that you used. From your website I have found the Cicerone Guides (excellent details, but need to buy the maps as well to boost up the mapping), and have reassured myself about kit and the timing of our trip. So now we are looking forward to two weeks in the dolomites in early September for virgin VF-ing around the Brenta, and then further north to find something else to climb.

I have a few niggles

Kit hire. I agree that buying something fundamentally important ensures that you know the kind of wear and tear that the piece has been subjected to, but to buy for only a few days climbing?? Hmm has anyone any further thoughts on this, and also whether people know if there are any kit shops in or near Madonna.

A la ped.
Given all sorts of mad ideas and ideals we are trying to do the area without resorting to hiring a car. I am satisfied that there is a great bus system around the Brenta, but I am less sure about campsites and hostels as the area is very much geared to skiing. We will also need to find somewhere to stash some gear whilst spending a few days up in the mountains.
Again, any suggestions will be gratefully recieved.

Thanks for the inspiration Andrew, and to all the other people that regularly answer these questions. Boo to organised tours and a big HURRAH to going it alone!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hello Megs!
good idea hiring climbing gear, but do you think it's less expensive buying it,as you will climb some days?
In Sarche town there's a sportshop; in Madonna, probably, as it's greater than Sarche.
Along the road to Brenta moutain base, there are many campsites:from south to north : Dare, Mortaso, Pinsolo ,san Antonio di Mavignola,but nothing in Madonna.
In that campsites you can leave your own material in the office without problems.
Good trip for september!

Hi Andrew,

Great site with some great discussions going on. I was wondering if there is any info out there on VF in Austria ? I know you have had this question before (a few years ago) but I thought something in English may now be available.

Many thanks,

Matt

Hi Matt.

No, haven't heard of anything more, myself.

...Andrew

hi Matt,
for ironways in Austria click on:
Gallery Kletterstig
Klettersteig:Dachstein-Sudwand

A News in dolomits: last wednesday there was a collapse on Tofana di rozes , upon the beginning of via ferrata Lipella.I heard the news on radio because i was in the Brenta.

Andrew
Congratulations first on your great site.

I am planning a three week trip to the Dolomites VF mid June to first week July 2006. Solo at this stage.
I have considerable rock climbing experience but most partners in Aus at present are busy with younger families.
I am interested in perhaps contacting anyone through your forum that may be interested in partnering up for some routes.
I will have car (rental) and will likely mix accomodation between huts, self cater, hotel, camp.

Andrew
Congratulations first on your great site.

I am planning a three week trip to the Dolomites VF mid June to first week July 2006. Solo at this stage.
I have considerable rock climbing experience but most partners in Aus at present are busy with younger families.
I am interested in perhaps contacting anyone through your forum that may be interested in partnering up for some routes.
I will have car (rental) and will likely mix accomodation between huts, self cater, hotel, camp.

Hi Everyone,
If you are visiting Queenstown in the South Island of New Zealand, come and check out The Rungway, the Southern Hemisphere's first and only Via Ferrata. Check us out on: www.rungway.co.nz
Thanks

test

Hi Andrew, thanks for your site!
Thanks also Mary! I didn't thought it would be a ferrata in New Zealand.It's far from Europe but it's interesting learnt the ferrata's developement in the world.

I found your site on google, and decided to drop a note about a new Via Ferrata that is currently under construction in the USA (3 routes are open). The routes are right outside the city of Ogden, Utah and offer spectacular views of the Wasatch Mountains, including a spectacular view of a 350ft waterfall.

There's some basic information and some photos from my trip on my website: ogdenhub.com

If you make it to Utah to explore the National Parks or even for skiing, (they plan to keep the routes open all winter), this could be something fun to do for a day. (the routes are about 30miles from the Salt Lake City Airport.)



-john dilworth

Sorry about the link:

http://www.ogdenhub.com/sections/climb/via-ferrata/

Hi Andrew and everybody,
this is the TOPTEN VIAFERRATA 2006 in Dolomits given by italian ferratists :
NAME GRADE
1 Bocchete Centrali E
2 Rino Pisetta G
3 Gamma al Dente del Resegone ?
4 Mori Albano mount G
5 Pertini ?
6 Costantini G
7 Cengia Gabriella ,
sentiero degli Alpini ?
8 Lissone al corno di Graveo ?
9 Punta Anna F
10 Torre Toblin D

Happy CHRISTMAS !

Hello Message Board,

I am new to Via Ferrata and the concept of this sort of tour. I have a background in mountaineering and am a formal guide. I would like to ask about the environmental impact of these types of courses. It has been my experience that rock climbing has gone away from putting fixed placements. This seems to be putting even more in the environment. Is this being done on private land? Is there some sort of inspection critera so the lines don't degrade?

I'm full of questions and perhaps there is another website I could be directed towards to receive more information?

Cheers,
Steve G
USA

Hello Message Board,

I am new to Via Ferrata and the concept of this sort of tour. I have a background in mountaineering and am a formal guide. I would like to ask about the environmental impact of these types of courses. It has been my experience that rock climbing has gone away from putting fixed placements. This seems to be putting even more in the environment. Is this being done on private land? Is there some sort of inspection critera so the lines don't degrade?

I'm full of questions and perhaps there is another website I could be directed towards to receive more information?

Cheers,
Steve G
USA

Hi there

Interesting post. Let me give my take on what you wrote:

1) you mention ferratas as a 'tour'. Not sure what you mean by that.
Vie Ferrate are climbing routes with fixed protection and fixed wire ropes. Do you mean 'tour' in the sense of a guide? Do you mean 'tour' in the sense of visiting them?

2) Environmental impact. Well, having some metal wires and metal rebar drilled into solid rock is going to affect the immediate rock and terrain around them, in the sense that there is a hole in the rock, there is a bit of abrasion on some rock surfaces, and, of course, the effects of human traffic. Generally speaking, these routes don't go through vegetated areas, so there isn't much impact in that sense.

3) While it is true that many places in the world have gone away from fixed protection, the whole concept of the via ferrata in Italy and in the alps in general has a historical aspect to it, and also the fact that in Europe, wilderness areas are often viewed in a different light. 'Signs of man' in the wilderness are not as much of a problem there. People are generally ok with having these paths around. This is all being done on public land, in parks both national and regional. I don't know what the rules are for new routes, but new ones don't seem to go up that often. Also, there are many peaks in the dolomites that have no ferrate leading to the top of them.

4) I don't know about inspection criteria; lines do degrade, and through guidebooks and word-of-mouth, the current state seems to get around. People seem more willing to take personal responsibility when starting up one of these routes, rather than assuming that someone has done bulletproof testing.

I think one of the principle differences is that there seems to be a less litigious, less blame-someone-else type mentality. I personally could never see an Italian-style ferrata ever being possible in the US (and probably Canada too), given the problems with regulations and the danger of being sued. Those don't seem to be problems with the Vie Ferrate in Italy.

There are actually a couple of vie ferrate in the us and canada; however, they are so, so differnt in execution from the ones in the Italian Dolomites. They are on private land, for one. Two, they are extremely regulated, requiring a fee, signing of waivers, etc etc etc. One of them is in Kentucky - a placed called 'torrent falls' (here's the site: http://www.torrentfalls.com/viaferrata/index.asp). It is a good example of the only way such a route can exist in N.A.

While I treasure the more 'pristine' wilderness areas in North America, I, for one, am glad that I can go somewhere and try these ferrate, and I hope that the restrictions that would prevent these routes from being established virtually anywhere in north america never make their way to Italy.

Hope this answers your questions.

...Andrew

This is a great site and forum, I was excited to find so much good information in English, not to mention awesome pictures.

I'm planning on spending a week or so in the Dolomites in early May (say around the 7th-14th) this year. I'm an experienced rock and ice climber, and I'd love to get a little exposure while I'm out there -- via ferrata looks like the way to go. I have a few questions about going that time of year, though:

Will there be in trouble with roads being closed or otherwise accessing trailheads? My understanding is that the via ferrata never officially close ?? that correct? Assuming I bring an ice axe and crampons, should there be a fair selection of routes to choose from? What are the best bets?

I?uessing snow conditions vary a fair bit from year to year, does anyone know how to get information on current snow conditions: website, email, phone, snail mail, anything.

Thanks for your help,

Brendan

Hi there.

You are correct - ferrata are never 'closed'. It is up to the judgement of the climber as to what is reasonable or not.

Now, in May, the higher routes are likely to be either iced up or snowed-in, meaning you may have a hard time clipping in to certain segments of protection. This could be no big deal or a very big deal depending on the situation.

Regarding roads, I imagine that most of the main roads will be open - not sure about little access roads, though.

...Andrew

Hello Andrew
This is my first post, although I've kept an eye on your site for some time. I'm prompted to write having seen Brendan's recent query about climbing Vie Ferrate in early May. I would certainly echo your comments about the chances of routes being out of condition because of snow or ice - I personally wouldn't contemplate planning a VF holiday in the Dolomites until the beginning of June at the very earliest. Even at that time of the year you'll almost certainly be limited to routes at an altitude of below 2000m. So much depends on the amount, and timing, of snow fall in the previous winter. For example, in 2004 there was a big dump in mid-March and, whilst it melted fairly quickly in the valleys , it effectively ruled out anything other than low-level VF activity until well into June. However, all is not lost! If Brendan really is limited to holidaying in early May, I'd suggest that he heads straight for Lake Garda. I'm incedibly lucky in living in the Dolomites, but I still take 2 or 3 trips a year to Arco (just a few minutes drive from the northern end of the lake) to climb in the area. It's been a mecca for hard rock climbing for years but, until recently, it was little known amongst english speaking vie ferrate enthusiasts simply because there was no english language guidebook available. Cicerone Press have now put that right and, as the joint author of their guidebook, I can vouch for the outstanding quality of the climbing. If Brendan wants a tick-list of the best routes to tackle I'd be pleased to oblige.
Happy climbing everyone!
Graham Fletcher

Happy new year for Andrew ,Brendan and everyone !

Brendan , you can have informations about Dolomits ferratas,around may,asking to refuges( second window : RIFUGI, on the up line with tel numbers) if they are opened on this site :

http://www.vieferrate.it/

It's really very just to go on ferrata in that season , but nevertheless good luck !

More quickly surely , on :
sito italiano di riferimento di vie ferrate e sentieri attrezzati

Agree with Graham's advice, definitely.

hmm... Graham Fletcher, Graham Fletcher.... now where have I heard that name... let me think... hmm... oh gee, the name on my ferrata guidebooks says 'Graham Fletcher'. Is that you? If so, very neat, and we have a celebrity in our midst - and your guidebooks are great!

Now I'll have to speed up my ferrata page redesign - I feel suddenly inadequate! :-)

...Andrew

I'm going at Whit this year, the second visit at this time of year for me(also been in September). There will be limitations, cable cars and mountain huts shut for instance, and you have to take pot luck with the amount of snow, but you have the mountains virtually to yourselves. The resorts are virtually in shut-down (Cortina will be ok)but some accomodation is to be had everywhere, there are still places to eat and drink, and the days are long, an advantage if progress is slow. One word of warning though: we did the Tridentina (piscadu), the climb up was great, the virtical walls were snow-free but the walk off was a different matter, a north facing, steep, snow-filled gully, normally with protection but the cable was buried. But for our ice axes, we would have been forced to down-climb the ferratta: take winter gear up with you and don't climb anything you wouldn't be prepared to retreat down, unless you have local advice about the route.

I am going to Pinzolo in the Dolomites first week in July 2006 and would like to try my hand at Via Ferrata. I have limited experience of climbing on walls but a lot pot holing, hence used to rope work and fixed protection.
Can you reccommend any routes for starters, or any groups of like minded individuals who will be in that area at the time?
Guides for the area?
Obviously I would prefer to start with something simple!
Is it best to hire equipment or buy. Obviously I have harness, ropes, helmet etc. What other equipment would you suggest?
Thanking you in advance.

steve.warner@doncaster.gov.uk

Hi steve,
I suggest you, during your holidays in Pinzolo, to begin easy with sentiero SOSAT, in Brenta moutain, which is nearer from Pinzolo.
From Madonna di Campiglio, take Vallesinella Parking; then 1.5 hour walking to reach Tuckett refuge.Start to SOSAT;
A very short scale for beginning, then a horizontal walk ,and near the end 4 great scales.
Return following down Vallesinella refuge road.
Total time:4.3 hours.
I recommande you that way ; it's very beautiful !

Hi Andrew, Made an abortive post a few weeks ago, suspect just at time you've upgraded the site (great job!) - also looks like I was about a week behind your itinerary in '05!

Got a question for the forum re Marmolada: I've heard tell that a new wire has been added to Marmolada completing the circuit round the summit (over a section that previously required an abseil?). Wondered if anyone can confirm this?

Thanks
Steve

Hi there..

yes, there is in fact a post up above in this forum from last July, and it states that there is now a wire protecting the steep part of the descent route on the Marmolada ferrata.

...Andrew

hi steve,
for beginning in via ferrata , I suggest you, one of them, near Madonna di Campiglio: sentiero SOSAT.
From Madonna , take Vallesinella parking.
Join Tuckett refuge about 1, 5 hour, for beginning Sosat.
No difficulties, only 4 scales.
Arriving on Brentei refuge, then following down by Vallesinella route.
Beautiful views on that site!

Hi Andrew, great site. I'm planning on a trip to the dolomites this year in early September. Im not sure what to wear footwear wise though. My initial thought was a pair of approach shoes but some of the photos Ive seen show a reasonable amount of snow, plus I'm not sure how long the hikes in and out of the route will be- would a pair of hiking boots be preferable? Is it feasible to climb via ferrata in hiking boots? (I mean real full thickness leather above ankle style boots)

Excellent site, can't believe I only found it today. Photos excellent, have been on your site for approx. 2hrs, brought back great memories of last July, stayed in Moena, a cracking little town with enough bars/restaurants to last the two weeks we were there, plus a gear shop owned and run by a retired mountain guide (I think he was about 135 years old)Full gear could be hired for about 15 Euros and bought for about 120.
Our previous mountain experience was no more than adventurous hill walkers with easy scrambling in the Lake District/Snowdonia/Scotland. We did a few easy ones (VF Bepi Zac in the Fassa region is good, although you don't really need the kit). Can highly recommend VF Passo Santner for rock scenery. Although it doesn't summit anything, it spits you out onto a small plateau with fantastic views of the Vajolet Towers.
Returning to Corvara this year, with VF Piz Da Lech and Tridentina on the tick list (noted your comments re. Tridentina)
Would appreciate anyones comments regarding Corvara, with particular emphasis on bars

Cheers

Jon (Derbyshire, England)

Hi Andrew,
What a great site. I googled it up while researching a trip to the Brenta group for this Sept. You deserve a pint for all the hard work and such a high quality. Thank you.

We did some of the Alta Via 2 last year and we started in Passo Cerado to Passo di San Pellegrino. The Pradidali hut was closed. I got the impression that they were renovating a hut a year in that area, the Treviso had already been upgraded but if the Rosetta gets it this year it will mean some long days.

Wealso did the Tridentina, a super day out.

Keep up the good work.

Andrew

Of all the Via Ferrata sites yours is definitely the most helpful, so good work.

I am completely new to mountain sports (I'm Australian - we go to the beach) and would love to go on an organised tour of some Via Ferrata.
All the group bookings seem to be for about 7-8 days. I was wondering if you knew of any tours that had shorter itineraries (around 3-4 days) or could recommend some contacts from your numerous trips who would have some good advice.

Any advice on how to get there without being ripped off would be great. Thanks

Matt

Hi there, and thanks for all of the kind compliments!

Unfortunately, I really know nothing about tour groups in the dolomites, or in Italy in general. I've only ever done the car hire (rental) thing and driven around myself, stayed in campgrounds or huts or hotels on my own. If you are up for that, it is a fine way to explore the area.

Does anyone else on this forum have any thoughts or experience on tours?

Sorry I'm not able to give you any direct feedback!

...Andrew

Andrew,
Once again well done on the website. I discovered it the other day whilst researching the Dolomites and it's a god send.

I'm going to Dolomites for the second May long weekend for 4 full days on the hill. We are flying into Verona and hiring a car. We plan to explore the lower Dolomites due to the time of season. We are all experienced climbers but it will be our first time doing via ferratas.

Could you (or anyone else for that matter) suggest a sample itinerary based on the info above. We would like to stay in some refugios if possible but realise it may be a little early for this.

thanks for your advice,

cheers,
Kristoffe

Hi there.

Well, of the 'lower' routes I've done, you could try something like Punta Fiammes or Col Rosa near Cortina, although your dates are quite early - I'm not sure if even those routes would be snow-free enough. maybe.

I hear that there are good routes in the Lake Garda area that are low in altitude and probably good for the time of year in which you are visiting. Unfortunately, I've never tried any of the ferrate in this area. (yet, anyway).

I'm guessing that most rifugios would be closed around this time of year.

Hi

Does anyone know or can give me the contacts of a list of Via Ferrata builder in France or Italy?

Cheers.
Wilfred

Hi Jon,

Re. Corvara - We've returned to Passo Compalonga for the last three years and have found it an excellent base. The town of Corvara itself is clean (almost antiseptic) and there are several excellent restaurants, bars a pizzarias. Fornellas is always friendly, good food, reasonable prices, good house red, what more can you ask? There's also an excellent pizzeria on the main street near to Sport Kostner (if you need to hire gear the staff there are always helpful). If you get fed up of Corvara then Arrabba is at the other end of Passo Compalonga (so only a twenty minute drive) and it too is a really pleasant little town with a couple of good restaurant/bars. All in all I can recommend both towns though maybe Corvara has the edge when you're sitting there in the evening, sipping a glass of something nice, having done Piz da Lech or Brigata Tridentina, just watching the paragliders spiral down from Piz Boe to the landing field!!!.

Robbie,

Cheers for info re. Corvara, paragliding sounds great. Do they take passengers? (I fear my complete lack of paragliding experience may result in the trajectory of a housebrick. Wrapped in lead). Re. restaurants, do the pizzerias serve the cheese/tomato/anchovy/salami/chilli pepper/asparagus/2 raw egg special? Had one at a place in Moena. The best I can say is that it is highly enjoyable whilst eating it.
Do you know if there is anywhere to hire mountain bikes in the area? Appreciate this is a Via Ferrata forum but scenery like the Dolomites would be a great thing on a bike. We're going for two weeks arriving on 8th July so we have time for a few days on the bike.
Cheers again for the info., if you're back this year and our dates overlap let me know, will buy you a beer/wine somewhere. But not a special pizza.

Hi Jon,

Yes, you can get a tandem flight from the Piz Boe (the last flight before they stop for lunch, so about 1130am, is often a good one and the pilots are very skilled). I'm not absolutely sure but I think you can hire bikes in Arabba - in fact it seems to be a popular thing to take them up the mountain in some of the larger cable cars like the Porto Vescovo -the one which goes up to Via Delle Trincee (La Mesolo) and then ride back down into town. As for the "special" pizza you had, I don't think I've ever seen anything as exotic in Corvara or Arabba, but then if eaten something like that I'd have had to spend the next few days just sleeping it off.

Cheers, Robbie

To Matt F. Re guided trips I'd recommend Collets - UK company - that have self-catering accomodation based in both Arraba and Pedraces. Their reps organise "accompanied" trips for all customers that vary all the way up the grades. Note that these aren't available every day, but we did our first couple of routes with them and it helped us callibrate the guide books and climbing grades to allow us to be self sufficient thereafter. Also means you're not tied-in to a specific itinerary. The reps were also available on evenings to help out with advice on other routes - condition/grades etc.

There's also a host of organisations that advertise in UK magazines like Trail and TGO offering fully guided via ferrata hols.

Get off the beach and get up there!
Good luck
Steve

Hello, Great site! I'm trying to plan a 3-day, two overnight hut trip for my honeymoon (my fiancee won't tolerate more than two nights sleeping with 50 other people on a honeymoon, otherwise it'd be much longer!). I bought Lonely Planet's Walking in Italy book and it was pretty useless. . . I was thinking of trying to start in Madonna Di Campiglio since we'll be coming from Lake Como and was wondering if you could recommend two huts to stay at to make a large circle. We're not climbers, just hikers looking for about 5-10 miles of hiking/day. email address beckyliddicoat@yahoo.com
thanks!

another reason I thought to write to you is that I think I'll face divorce if I take my fiancee on a trail that involves holding onto ropes with huge drop-offs and cliffs like in some of your photos, . . . so if you could recommend hikes that don't involve hooking into fixed ropes that would probably be good. . .
beckyliddicoat@yahoo.com

Well, as one data point, I stayed in the rifugio Brentei last summer, and there were 3 of us, and they gave us a 3-person room. So, depending on your hut and availability, you may not have to stay in a big common bunkroom.

Hi Becky, Have to say that you are likely to be be pleasantly surprised by the Brenta huts. We stayed last year at Alimonta, Agostini and Pedrotti; and also stopped by at Tucket and 12 Apostles. All of a v high standard, generally with smaller rooms. Great food/cake/beer/wine/coffee (half-board deals usually), blankets provided - take your own liner. Most of them are accessible from the lower valleys. We did the wires though. A looped walk ought to be possible (there generally seemed to be a Plan B option incase weather got bad), but would need a bit of planning - I suspect that for the duration you're talking it'll be difficult to avoid retracing some of your steps.

We travelled in mid July and had booked in advance. But wasn't too busy even then. Aug a different matter by all accounts.

We used Fletcher/Smith book - Vol 2 I think is the one that includes the Brenta.

That said, I would rate our trip to Brenta as one of the best. Even if you're not on a V-F its still a spectacular area. Not to be missed!

Regards,
Steve

Wow what a site. Did Civetta a few years back then Marmolada. Civetta was done from a standing run at the hotel. Don't recommend that. Good hut at Rifugio Coldai 2135 for an early start. Need some of the classic exposure routes for this summer to scare a friend and make him want to return?

I've read the Italian classification of the best "ferrate".
I'd like to tell you that the difficulty of the Pertini's route is as almost the same as "Brigata Tridentina".
It's located in Val Gardena, which is one of the most beautiful places of the Dolomites.
It's a very very good route and I recommend you to do it.

Bye Bye everybody

Franci

I've just read the Italian classification of the top ten Vie Ferrate.
I'd like to tell you that the difficulty of Pertini's route is as almost the same as Brigata Tridentina, but it's more interesting.
It's located in Val Gardena, which is one of the most beautiful places in the Dolomites.
I suggest this to everyone who want to do a ferrata in the Dolomites because it's very very beautiful.

Good climbings!

Hi
Franci

Oops I forgot to put the subject in the latest message.

Bye

We are going to be based near Cogne for two weeks in July and plan to tackle the Monte Emilius VF in the Aosta Valley, using the helful downloadable description (Italian/French/English).

I believe there are other VFs near to Aosta, but don't know their names to search for nor where they start. Can anyone list them? Are there any around Cogne? Are there any English descriptions available or decent topos in Italian that can be downloaded?

Anybody know if there is a ferrata up mount pelmo?

Hello Andrew
I have perhaps a little peculiar request/question.
My name is Martina, born and raised in Slovakia, but I am living in Denmark. I have in the past 5 years travelled quite extensively in the Italian Dolomites and conquered quite some peaks! I have now found myself in a situation where I, this summer, don't have anyone to go with and would very much like to hear from some enthusiasts who are planning to do via ferratas, either in Italy, Switzerland or Austria. I have my equipment, some experience but I don't thrive well on my own, and would prefer a company of some strong man/men:) that are skilled climbers and a good company. I am very open-minded, with bubbly personality and I look for challenges. Would you be able to advise where to find (a) teammate(s)to this beautiful sport with sometime in august? Thank you and Best Regards, Martina (dior2009@gmail.com)

Well, I'm not going to be in the dolomites this summer, but perhaps someone else reading this will take you up on your offer.

...Andrew

Hi Andrew,

Do you know who build all these via ferrata in Italy? The concept of via ferrata look very interesting to me, as a rock climber. But how safe is it? I'm always curious to know if there is any standard that these ferrata builders followed, as compared to rock climbing. In rock climbing.. I think there are CE, or UIAA,...standard to follow. Would really appreciate if I could find out more from these Italian via ferrata builders. Thanks.

Wilfred

Hi there.

Some ferrate were built as access paths for soldiers in World War I; later ones were built purely for sport by climbing clubs.

I don't know for sure about a common standard of building. I wouldn't be surprised if the Club Alpinismo Italiano (who seem to be involved in much of the building) have a modern standard. However, I've noticed that the state of the ferrate vary from ferrata to ferrata. It is the responsibility of the climber, ultimately, in my opinion, to do research beforehand about the state of the protection, and also to constantly re-evaluate while climbing.

A good, solid, well-installed ferrata is practically bulletproof (i.e. very safe), assuming you clip in properly.

It is important to approach these routes from a true climbing mentality - that is, you are on your own and you need to evaluate all the conditions (rock, weather, AND ferrata protection) at all times, and retreat if necessary.

going on hols to italy and i have two spare days and would like to go via ferrate i like the look of the pisciadu climbing path. the trouble is its around may and i was looking to find out how hard tis route would be at this time of year if possible


find the site really good pics are great and plenty of info
thanks

I've never been in May, but perhaps someone else could volunteer their experience at that time of year?

Hi Peter,
We were in the Corvara region around May 26 + this year. The intention was to to the Tridentina route, however there was just too much snow in the approach gulley and on top. It was a very late, (snowy) spring as the locals told us. I would think it would be possible in a lower snow pack year. We returned after the first week in June and there was still snow. I suppose one could posthole through that to get on the route, as we heard some people did. We weren't into that though. Hope that helps, Cheers, Paula

thanks paula at least i know what to expect.

First, I love the new site ...

I'm trying to track down a ferrata location that was presented recently on an American TV show ...

I have a handful of pictures but have had no success pinpointing the location:

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i168/t_hunter_2006/tv%20show/sm_set25_Picture5.jpg (note suspension bridge, bottom left)
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i168/t_hunter_2006/tv%20show/sm_set25_Picture7.jpg (suspension bridge, close-up)
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i168/t_hunter_2006/tv%20show/sm_set25_Picture8.jpg (climbing face)
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i168/t_hunter_2006/tv%20show/sm_sam_via_ferrata.jpg (rung or ladder type)

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers!

Please kindly disregard, I found the location ... it is in Peille, France

Hi Andrew and everybody;
what bad weather for first weeks in august: rain every day, grey sky, fog on moutains tops and cold air of course !
nevertheless I did some ferratas as Averau, Meisulès,Brigata tridentina, 5 th Cir pike, Zacchi and Sperti.
I 'll advice whose dont'like ferrata the Gunther Messner footpath on the Puez moutain (7-8 hours).
That's all. What have you done Andrew ?

Hi
I am looking to do a challenge with a group of people for my 50th birthday in the summer 2007 . I enjoy fell walking in the lakes and need something to get fit for! The only bit of scrambling I have done is Crib Goch on Snowdon,Bristly Ridge , Tryfan, Striding Edge etc.Do you think a Via Ferrata is a possalility cos they look fantastic!

Hi
I am looking for a challenge for a group of people to do for my 50 th birthday and think the via ferrata look fantastic!
I am a fell walker but the only srambles i have done are cribgoch on snowdon,tryfan ,bristly ridge,striding edge and similiar. I do however want a challenge and something to get fit for. Do you think a via ferrata route would be a possibility?

Hi there... I don't see why not!

Hi
Thanks for your reply.Do you have any suggestions about which one to do in Italy? I fancy one with a suspension bridge !
Pauline

ouhouh.... Andrew ; where are you ?

Hi. I'm still here... just haven't gotten around to posting yet. I haven't done anything in the dolomites this year. I've been more focused on some other trips out in Western Canada this year (if you go to my home page you'll see the report for those).

I plan to do some more ferrata next year, and I am appreciating the tips and suggestions I'm seeing on the forum. And then, I can add them to my online ferrata guide!

...Andrew

Hi Pauline
The short answer is, definitely yes! If you?re comfortable on the kind of scrambles you mention, then you?ll have no problems on many of the VFs in the Dolomites. You will, however, need to be properly kitted up (helmet, harness & self-belay gear), although you don?t necessarily have to buy the kit if you?re only dipping a toe in the water, since you can hire everything you need in many of the major resorts.
Probably the most important question, though, is when exactly are you planning to go. The VF season is fairly short in the higher mountain groups, so the timing of your trip will determine what you?ll be able to tackle.
Tell us a little more about your plans, and I?m sure that I, and some of the regular contributors to this site, will be able to offer some advice on what to consider.

hi

im heading to the dolomites on wednesday (my first visit, im so excited!) and will be staying at Steiner Campground which is about 8kms from Bolzano. i am interested in doing 2-3 via ferratas - i have done a couple in France so have the basic idea! could you please give me some recommendations of routes (i will not have a car so will either need to get by bike or public transport), also where i can get some information on these routes....

hope you can help :-)

Hi there,
Is a guide necessary on the VF routes, or can a person just bring their own gear and tackle it without a guide. My boyfriend is a very experienced rock climber/mountaineer and from what it sounds like, we could. It's difficult to find a website that offers this information (most seem to offer expensive guided tours).

Thanks,
Linda
New Westminster, BC, Canada

Hi there.

You are absolutely right. If you have a good sense of safety in alpine environments, and you use the right gear (a dynamic ferrata self-belay device, etc), you will be fine.

All of the ferrate I've done have been without a guide.

Hey,

I'm going to do my first VF with a group of friends and leaving on Friday. We had planned to camp, but have decided the kit list was too big. Have you got any recommendations for cheap good accommodation? I was thinking Corvara or Arabba, but open to suggestions.

Thanks so much for the inspiration!

Hi Andrew,

Thankyou for your previous snipets of info in early Sept.

We are a couple from Australia in early 50's, pretty fit and regularly walk and exercise, but with little climbing experience.

We purchased the Cicerone book 'Via Ferrata's in the Dolomites' after reading Andrew's website

We designed a schedule to start with a grade 1A and move up from there. Our goal was to finally attempt the grade 3B VF Brigata Tridentina, if things went well in our 3 week adventure in northern Italy.

The first climb was a very easy 'Gran Cir' in Corvara. I consider a very good one to start with as you learn to use the appropriate via ferrata safery harness, self belay device etc in almost unexposed circumstances.

We then tryed the 'Piz da Cir' a grade 2A in the same region. This is a relatively short climb but you certainly get a taste for good climbing and 'airy' situations, but well protected. My wife commented during the climb that it was more challenging then she would have thought and didnt know if she would attempt any more.....But, she woke me early next morning motivated to try the grade 2A on Monte Toblina in Misurina area. There are 2 climbs on the Torre Toblino the other is a 3B. We selected the 2A and found it to be a well protected climb,and a confidence builder. An excellent hike from Rifugio Auronzo, past the Tre Cima to Rifugio Locatelli to get to this mountain.

The next day we tackled the Monte Paterno grade 2B in the same region, you pass a lot of WW1 remains...good stuff ! Stayed at Rifugio Auronzo overnight

We moved to Cortina on the last day of the chairlift and gondola (glad to get out !) to VF Marino Bianchi grade 2B and over 3200m in altidude. In our opinion this was our first 'serious' via ferrata. After leaving Rifugio G Lorenzi you are immediately on the via ferrata. It is a challenging, very 'airy' and fantastic experience.....you are really on top of the world !

We then moved to Sesto in the far north of the region to do the RF Croda Rossa di Sesto grade 2B. A strenuous hike to get there (leave early) and good challenge with air and some reasonably exposed situations....good stuff again !

I write this email not to brag about our trip but to explain to a lot of people in an 'unsure' mind (as we were)about tackling vie ferrate, that if you take the challenge and use plenty of commonsence, combined with a good fitness level, plan well so you dont have to hurry (dangerous)....you should really enjoy like we did. We are already planning our trip for next year... cant wait !...Before leaving, we returned to Corvara to attemp the VF Brigata Tridentina grade 3B , but the weather closed in, so we considered that to be a good excuse to return next year !

Another small point to mention is we purchased 'Scarpa' boots a couple of weeks before leaving Australia and 'broke them in' before leaving....good choice. Also you will find that the via ferrata equipment is readily available for hire in all the regions we went to whilst in the Dolomiti..We went in Sept and didnt pre plan any accom....no worries. We had a small renta car for the full period and wouldnt do it any other way...

Ciao ciao !

Bob Hughes (Australia)

As with most forms of rock sports the grading seems a bit unreliable.
Smith/Fletcher seems to give a better overall picture of the routes. Hofler/Werner can occasionally seem a bit muddled and I suspect loses a bit in translation. But Hofler/Werner is a lot lighter than carrying two Smith/Fletcher guidebooks if doing the High Level Alta Via 1 walking route from hut to hut to link via ferrate. I did this in September, from Cortina to Belluno and cannot recommend it highly enough.

Specific comment (winge) about Schiara Group:
The routes in Hofler/Werner are graded much harder than they are, and the timings can be easily beaten. VF Marmol is graded E (and from a quick glance at a Smith/Fletcher guide it is graded quite hard in that too) and I suspect this is because one needs to descend the route to finish the Alta Via 1, so many people are doing it with full kit at the end of a hard day's walking. However even allowing for the fact it is graded in descent (which is trickier than climbing up) it didn't actually seem a whole lot more difficult or dangerous than the via ferrata on the southern descent of Nuvlao which is graded A in the same book! I actually met a walker who had no VF kit and just used the wire as a hand rail while descending. The other routes in the Schiara also seem to be a bit easier than the grade.

If staying at the 7 Alpini refuge I would recommend ascending Zacchi onto Berti, and then reversing down Berti and continuing west to descend Sperti. This gives a much better round trip, and can easily be done in a day by the fit and aclimatised. Its a friendly hut and a very nice area.

hello everybody;
information: Sandro Pertini ironway in val Gardena is definitively dismantled since few weeks.The European nature control take this décision because the ferrata was in an natural parc.

If anybody wants to get advices on dolomits on this forum , he has to give us more details as the dates for example.

Firstly let me congratulate you on a superb site! It is beautifully laid out and has a great depth. I have especially enjoyed looking at the maps and photos you attach.

I had my appettite whet by a skiing trip to Pedraces with Collett's last January and am looking at trying Via Ferrata after reading their brochure on return to the UK.

We are scramblers in the UK and not climbers and fancy working our way through the grades, has anyone had experience of Collett's Mountain Holidays in the summer? I am very tempted to return there with them as I thought they ran a great program and even though we went ther to ski we were given the option to try snowshoeing and throughly enjoyed it(!) and would reccommend their winter holidays to anyone (http://www.colletts.co.uk/winter/winter_dolomites.html) Does anyone have an idea on what the best time of year is to go for the ferrata?

I have read through the other threads and would just like to know if there is anyone who can offer advice to a Via Ferrata virgin.

All the best,
Jen

I'd say the best time of year for ferrata-ing is Late June to Early October. August is quite busy, if you don't like that sort of thing.

...Andrew

Hi, what a great site!! My husband and I are planning on hiking the Alta Via n.2 next September and really wanted to do the VF over the Marmolada. Just wondering if we can get away with not bringing ice axes, I know we need crampons, harness, etc. (done a lot of climbing/bouldering), but was hoping to not lug ice axes for 180km. If anyone can give me some input, that would be great, Thanks a lot, Carolyn

Andrew,
We are hoping to do the Masare and Latemer VF this summer on successive days while staying at Karer Pass. Do you know of a way to access the Latemar from Karer Pass? You and the guidebooks seem to have accessed from Obereggen, right? We won't have a car, so going from Karer Pass would be preferable.
Thanks for your work on the site!
Drew

Hi there

Looking at my Tabacco 029 map, I see that there is are access trails up into the Latemar from the Karer pass. There are several trails which all funnel into the same trail (number 18) once you get up high. The access trails down low are 18, 17, and 517. looks like 17 and 517 start right at the height of land at Karer Pass.

This is all a vague description, of course. Best if you get the actual map and see for yourself.

Hi Caroline,

I'm not sure if you're talking about the Punta Penia ridge on Marmolada when you say you hope to do a route on it but if it is that route then I would recommend carrying an axe, a (half)rope and a set of crampons.

Descending the icefield from the summit is a potentially serious undertaking especially if the weather takes a turn for the worse. The crevasses are deep and just too wide to step over comfortably so at times an athletic stretch/jump is called for. I saw one or two people with these new walking pole/axe combinations but none looked particularly comfortable with them. All of the local guides had axes and had their clients on a half rope and made an ice axe belay for them on a couple of the more tricky crevasses.

I don't mean to make it sound too serious; it's a great mountain route and with the right tools it's pretty straightforward to negotiate the icefield but I wouldn't want to do it without an axe. (My own background is mostly Scottish winter climbing, usually around grade 4/5 so I'm reasonably used to snow/ice/winter situations) Hope this helps. Cheers

Sir,

Firstly a fantastic website. I am planning a trip to the Dolomites myself and am looking for the correct maps. I will use the "Tobacco" maps myself but am having trouble finding the right ones. Can you advise me on the ones you used (map numbers and areas) for your via ferrata as listed.

Hope to hear from you soon.

Regards,

Jack Scoffham
jackscoffham@yahoo.co.uk

PS. Sorry if this info is already here somewhere!

Almost all of the ferrate I've done are covered by two Tabacco 1-25,000 maps: map 03 and map 07. There are a couple outside of that (namely the Latemar, Canalone, and Brenta ferrate), and those are found on Tabacco Maps 014 and 022, and Kompass 1-20,000 map 688, respectively.

Hope this helps,
...Andrew

Hey Robbie, thanks so much, I did mean the Punta Penia ridge, just wanted to make sure, difficult to get actual info about exactly what is involved. Will take your advise, thanks again, Carolyn

Hi Carolyn,

You don't necessarily need to take all that gear over - most people do if they already have it but if you were staying at somewhere like Corvara you can hire harnesses and belay kits. When we were in the shop (Sport Kostner) last year there were a couple of British mountaineers hiring crampons (to do that very route) so I dare say you could probably hire a suitable axe as well. I suppose its just whether you prefer to bring your own gear because you know it.

Cheers, Robbie

I and my friends intend to go to do a few via ferrate in the Brenta next year. Does anyone know of a centre (and details) for kit hire in Maddona di Campiglio?

Io e miei amici intendono andare fare alcuni via ferrate nell'anno prossimo di Brenta. Nessuno sa di un centro (ed i dettagli) per l'affitto di attrezzatura in Madonna di Campiglio?

Thanks

I and my friends intend to go to do a few via ferrate in the Brenta next year. Does anyone know of a centre (and details) for kit hire in Maddona di Campiglio?

Io e miei amici intendono andare fare alcuni via ferrate nell'anno prossimo di Brenta. Nessuno sa di un centro (ed i dettagli) per l'affitto di attrezzatura in Madonna di Campiglio?

Thanks

thanks again Robbie, I guess I will have to carry all throughtout the hike as we are starting in Bressanone and hiking to Feltre(180km) on the the Alta Via 2 for 10 or so days, we are doing a straight thru hike, so no real base, moving every day to a new hut. I have equipment, so maybe we can find other options for VF on the hike so we can justify lugging everything! carolyn

thanks again Robbie, I guess I will have to carry all throughout the hike as we are starting in Bressanone and hiking to Feltre(180km) on the the Alta Via 2 for 10 or so days, we are doing a straight thru hike, so no real base, moving every day to a new hut. I have equipment, so maybe we can find other options for VF on the hike so we can justify lugging everything! carolyn

Hello and Happy New Year

A bunch of us are going to Arraba area early June (I'm organising a trip for colleagues from work)and I am looking into routes, never having done anything like this or even been to the area before. We are all keen hillwalkers, some with limited climbing experience, keen to push ourselves. There may be 1 expereienced climber with us. We are thinking of 2 days walking, 3 days via ferrate, probably grades B-C (from your website). I've got the Ciccerone guide and there is so much to choose from! Do you have any recommendations for suitable routes and do you have any top tips? Are there any routes to avoid? Would we be able to walk the Marmalada?

Thank you

I am considering construction of a VF on private land in southern UT. Beautiful site. Have the technical skill to install, but want to find specs info and product sources. Any catalogues (any language) and European instalation guidelines? Many thanks.

Hi there.

I've not done many routes in the Arabba area, but I see from my guidebooks that there are several nice ones.

A couple of notes:

-you are going 'early' in the season for ferrate. There may still be significant snow and ice, especially on the higher altitude routes. Be aware of this and assess when you see the route. Ice ax, crampons, and skills may be needed if these conditions exist on the route you are doing.

-The Marmolada route requires glacier travel and snow fields. I haven't done it myself, but if I was going I'd definitely bring an ice ax and crampons at the very least, and be comfortable and skilled in using them. And, possibly, though only possibly, a rope may be useful; this would would depend on the skill and comfort level of your group and on the actual route and conditions, both of which I have no direct experience.

...Andrew

Wow - a ferrata in Southern UT? I love southern UT (in fact, I'm probably going to do some backpacking there this april). While I can't comment on construction specifics, I've seen the pictures of the torrent falls ferrata in the US. I notice their website (http://www.viaferratatorrentfalls.com/) has a contact for 'how to build a ferrata'. Have you seen this site or contacted them?

hello Elizabeth,
Arabba is an excellent site for all you want to do.
Here are some proposals:
walking with the route to Puez refuge starting Colfosco, near Arabba (2-3 hours);or going roud Sella moutain from passo Sella (2- 3 hours);
climbing Marmolada moutain (not glacier) by ferrata Eterna ( Fedaia lake);or passo Gardena to Colfosco and then Arabba (3 h);
ferrata Brigata Tridentina (B- C), Gardena col.
ferrata Trincee(B) in front of Marmolada glacier.Starting Fedaia lake.
Have a good trip !

Hello Peregrine,
here are some e- mails:
in France:
-info@via-ferrata-roc.com ;
-ROCAVENTURE ;
-info@sisypheoutdoor.com ;
in Switzerland :
-www.ViaFerrata.com

Good luck !!!

Hi, I'm wondering how hard Eterna Brigata in Cortina is. I mean what sort of climbing grade would it be technically? How long are you climbing at this grade for on the route? Is some of the route hiking or is it all climbing. How many hours?

Hi, I'm wondering how hard Eterna Brigata in Cortina is. I mean what sort of climbing grade would it be technically? How long are you climbing at this grade for on the route? Is some of the route hiking or is it all climbing. How many hours?

I haven't done the ironway Brigata Cadore or Eterna on Marmolada.
The Italian site give it for 4 hours rising and grade C-D .
Descent , two possibilities :
- on glacier (snow-shoes and crampons)for 2 hours.
- by funicular.

Andrew

What a great site with a lot of photographic and map information. Congratulations.

I have climbed for many years in Australia (rock) and trips to Wales, French alps, USA, etc. I have a very old UK "climber & rambler" mag that has a write up on via ferrates that had always fueled my interest. I am now hoping to get to Dolomites late June this year.(2007)
I am looking more just for the 'adventure' and exploring different areas on the via Ferrates.

Do you believe it would be possible to meet other partners in any of the main areas like Cortina or do you know of any (non commercial) bulletin boards for same?

Thanks
Gary
garylyons@williamsref.com.au

Hi there, and glad you like the site. I don't personally know of any such groups, but I've noticed that there are people on this forum who sometimes are looking for hiking partners, so your post here might attract some attention. Hopefully they'll e-mail you, or you could keep checking this forum from time to time.

...Andrew

Hi Andrew we are thinking of visiting the Italian dolomites this summer to camp cycle and do hut to hut . Are there camp sites around Arabba? and is it possible to go hut to hut ? We have never been to the dolmomite before any information would be of use. thanks
Les & yvonne.

Hi there.

I'm no export, but I believe the answers both of your questions is yes! There are several campgrounds dotted around the dolomites. I haven't stayed at any in Arraba, but I have stayed in a few others throughout the region.

As far as hut-to-hut hiking goes - yes... there are lots of trails and lots of refugios (huts) with beds. You may need to call ahead from time to time and reserve spots, though, depending on what time of year you go.


...Andrew

Hi,

I went to Cortina last year and did a few Ferrata routes and loved it!! This year I am going to the Valle De Aosta in June/July to do a bit of Walking and hopefully some Via Ferrata to.. was hoping that someone knows where i can find a info on any routes in that area?

Many Thanks

goods informations on that site:
alcune escursioni, ferrate ed arrampicare recenti
but you have to translate it.
If you wish to know some Aoste ferratas , you can ask me.

Hi, great site! I am interested in doing some via feratta this summer and was wondering what gear I need, specifically boots. I would want to do as high a grade as I could, I have climbed in trekking boots at a UK trad HVD (Hard Very Diff) grade, I do not know how this compares to other grades but it is pretty easy. Given this would I need climbing shoes at say grade 4 or would good trekking/mountaineering boots be OK, also are crampons needed on the higher routes? Thanks.

I use my La Sportiva Mountaineering boots on a few of the 4-grade ferrata routes. This is definitely ok. In fact, I think even on the 5-grade routes, most people use mountaineering boots. I haven't tried any 5-grade ferrata routes myself (yet - I'm going to try a few this July), but I plan to use my mountaineering boots.

...Andrew

Hi Andrew an impressive site with good information, I did the Brenta area a couple of years ago, where would you suggest next? The ideal would be somewhere with a number of good routes, with cable cars as I am lazy, possibly a two day outing with over night in a hut. i will only stay 3/4 days as I'll be touring Europe on my motorbike.

Thanks

rhell

Hmm..

Well, for the ones I know about, there is Piz da Lec. Good cablecars all the way from down in Corvara. It is a mid-grade ferrata, lots of ladders, but not very long.

There's also the Marino Bianchi Ferrata near Cortina - good cablecar access, ferrata starts right from the hut next to the top cablecar station, actually. That one is also mid-grade.

...Andrew

Is it essential to hire a car in the dolomites? If not is the bus system good enough and where would be the best place to stay (camping) to connect to as many Via ferrata, prefrably harder ones. Just trying to weigh my options up. Thanks!

Hi there

Based on my (somewhat limited) understanding of the area, not having a rental car hampers your ability to reach many of the ferrata starting points. I know that in the fletcher/graham guidebooks, they do occasionally talk about bus routes to reach some of the ferrate, but I don't recall many route descriptions having this info.

I really don't know which areas would have better bus services, either.

Sorry I can't be of more help,
...Andrew

Andrew,

Congratulations on a teriffic website, and many thanks.

Can you recommend a good rifugio to stay in the night before climbing VF Trincee? We will be coming from a day off in Bolzano, and will drive down to Cavalese after we finish Trincee.

Thanks for your help.

Stu

Hi there, glad you like the site.

Um, I'm not positive, but I think there may be a rifugio somewhere along the Passo di Fedaia. A quick look reveals one... the Dolomia Rifugio, which is somewhere along the lake at the pass.

Do a google for 'Dolomia Rifugio' and you'll find some websites that describe it. It looks like you could walk from the rifugio up to the ferrata pretty easily.

Hi Andrew
This is Graham Fletcher, back after a few months out of circulation, and with a few comments which I hope will help on couple of recent posts.
Firstly, TRANSPORT.
On 25th June, somebody (not signed) asked whether car hire was essential in the Dolomites. Well, it certainly makes life easier, but if the cost, or logistics, rule this out, then I?d say without hesitation that Cortina is the best base from the point of view of public transport access to the greatest number of VFs. The same correspondent goes on to ask about opportunities for camping and Cortina fits the bill here too. The best site in the area is Camping Olympia at Fiames (about 4km north of the town), and it?s also very close to a couple of good, mid-grade, routes. The best, and hardest, routes however are to be found on the west side of town, towards Passo Falzarego, which involves a change of buses at Cortina?s bus station ? not as much of a problem as it might sound, since the local buses are pretty regular. The alternative would be a stay in a rifugio on the west side of town: Rif. Dibona?s a good bet.
Next, Stu asked about access to VF Delle Trincee on 26th June. The best starting point is undoubtedly Arabba, on the north side of the route. Whilst there isn?t a rifugio in the town, there are lots of good little guest houses which aren?t much more expensive. You can then take the Porta Vescovo cable car, virtually up to the start of the route. Two pieces of advice: take the first ride up in the morning, since the route?s very popular and gets crowded; secondly, take a head torch, because the tunnels at the eastern end of the route are well worth exploring.
Hope that helps, but I?ll check the site again in case any further information is needed.
Happy VFing everyone!
Graham

Andrew / Graham,

Thanks for the excellent advice. I'll try to find somewhere in Arabba to stay. We will have a rental car, so transportation is not an issue.

I certainly appreciate your valuable information.

Stu

On the off chance that anyone reading this site / forum is going to be doing anything in the dolomites in the last two week of this July ('07)....

I and a few friends will be doing just that (trying out some new vie ferrate in the dolomites this coming July). I'm looking forward to trying some different and perhaps more challenging routes, and maybe, just maybe, we'll run into each other out there!

...Andrew

Hey there, Graham.

I'm honored that you are still reading this site! thanks for the info on the public transport situation (for the person who asked about that sort of thing a few days ago).

...Andrew

Andrew,

My son, brother, and nephew will be in Cortina starting 12 July; first night at Hotel Menardi. We are doing Tofane VFs on 13th, VF Ivano Dibona on 14th and 15th, and VF Trincee on 17th.

Do you think we can do Tofane (CORT 12?) and Lagazoui tunnels (FALZ 1A) all in one day? If you had to pick the most scenic VF and this was your first time doing VFs, which one would you choose? Which rifugio is your favorite? Given my experience with the rifugi in Alpe Siusi last summer, I don't think we need sleeping bags - - do you agree?

The VF gear is fairly expensive - - I have bought most of it locally (except the lanyards and vertigo carabiners; hard to find in the US). I'm wondering if we should just rent it there, given the cost. Thoughts? Do we have to have vertigo carabiners or is there a Black Diamond model that will work?

Graham,

Your guidebook is awesome. Please advise as well.

Thanks for your advice, gentlemen.

Stu

>Andrew,
>
>My son, brother, and nephew will be in Cortina starting 12 July; >first night at Hotel Menardi. We are doing Tofane VFs on 13th, VF >Ivano Dibona on 14th and 15th, and VF Trincee on 17th.
>
>Do you think we can do Tofane (CORT 12?) and Lagazoui tunnels (FALZ >1A) all in one day? If you had to pick the most scenic VF and this >was your first time doing VFs, which one would you choose? Which >rifugio is your favorite? Given my experience with the rifugi in Alpe >Siusi last summer, I don't think we need sleeping bags - - do you >agree?
>

Although I haven't climbed it myself, my understanding of it (from the Graham/Fletcher guidebook) is that it is a fairly easy ferrata, provided you use the cablecar to get up and down. If you do that, then I think you could indeed have enough time to scoot up to the Lagazuoi tunnels on the same day. Start early!

I haven't stayed in any rifugios in the Cortina area, but I can recommend a nice little hotel that I've stayed in several times : the hotel meuble myriam, on the north-ish end of the town of Cortina. Friendly mom & pop sort of place.

>The VF gear is fairly expensive - - I have bought most of it locally >(except the lanyards and vertigo carabiners; hard to find in the US). >I'm wondering if we should just rent it there, given the cost. >Thoughts? Do we have to have vertigo carabiners or is there a Black >Diamond model that will work?
>

I use Petzl AmD Ball Lock carabiners when I climb on ferratas. They are auto-locking and can be released with one hand.

here's a link to an REI page with these 'biners



>Graham,
>
>Your guidebook is awesome. Please advise as well.
>
>Thanks for your advice, gentlemen.
>
>Stu

Hi Andrew (and Stu)
Here are a few pieces of advice, prompted by posts in the past 24 hours.
Stu wonders if it would be possible to do (CORT 12?) and the Lagazoui tunnels all in one day. I recall that you'll have a car available, so transport between the routes won't be a problem, but the operating hours of the cable cars might well be, so an early start isn't necessarily the answer (unless you plan to walk up, which I wouldn't advise). If you're determined to try it, it's probably best to do the tunnels first, since the Lagazuoi cable car starts earlier than the Tofana lift system (I haven't got the times to hand, but check on the internet). Also, if you're trying to pack the two trips into a single day, then you'll probably be tempted to reverse the two Tofana routes once you've completed them, which would be a real shame, because the walk out to Rif. Vales is a super mountain itinerary.
Stu also asks which is the most scenic VF. Of course, it's completely subjective, but if you consider only the heart of the Dolomites (sadly, most visitors don't explore the peripheries) then I'd go for VF Brigata Tridentina (Corv 4). It's a lovely route, in scenery which just gets more spectacular as it unwinds, but it's very popular, so start very early (or after lunch if the weather's stable). You mention that some of the party are first timers, but don't let the grade (3B) put you off, since it's the upper section (which includes the suspension bridge) which earns it the grade, and that can be avoided by walking up the big bowl to the rifugio, although you'd be missing out the best part of the climb! Rif. Pisciadu has a wonderful situation, so you won't want to resist a beer to celebrate. Finally, for the return walk, I strongly recommend the longer, but more beautiful, Val de Mezdi.
Stu also asks for nominations for a favourite rifugio. Meg, my wife, 'doesn't do Rifugios', and I also prefer a bit of comfort. However, I like Rif. Scarpa, at the foot of M. Agner, and the Comici, in the Dolomiti di Sesto. The best food, though, is the pasta at Rif. Averau! If I really must stay overnight, then I always use a very light silk sleeping bag liner, which is all you need with the blankets on offer.
As for the best karabiners, I've used all sorts, but always come back to my old favourites, the Salewa VF karabiners. If you rely on rented gear, then you're unlikely to get a really good quality karabiner, and you MUST check that a previous user hasn't retied the kit in a way which renders it dangerous (as I've seen several times).
Hope this helps.
Graham

Hi Andrew
If you bump into anyone from this forum in July then it's likely to be me, since Meg & I live here! We're at the foot of the biggest, hardest and probably the best VF of them all: VF Costantini, on Moiazza (Agord 4, volume 2).
You mentioned that you're planning to look at a few of the more challenging routes, so just a couple of words of advice about two which might be on your list.
Firstly, that excellent route, VF Eterna Brigata Cadore (Fassa 14) is closed because of the dangerous state of the protection. Here's a copy of a note I've put on the website of Cicerone, our publishers:
'The already poor protection on this route has deteriorated to the point where it has been closed until maintenance work can be carried out. The timing of this depends on the availability of funding, so it is not possible to say with certainty when it will be carried out.'
Secondly, you might want to tackle VF Stella Alpina (Agord 5), another wonderful route, which I can see from our house! Stella Alpina is very well protected, but the normal descent route is closed at the moment because of the unstable state of the rock. Again, I'll paste in a note from Cicerone's website: 'This route has recently been closed since unstable rock above the route renders it potentially dangerous. Work will be undertaken to remove or stabilise the area of rock when funds are available but, in the meantime, you should not use VF Canalone, notwithstanding any advice you might receive locally that the route can still be climbed safely. You should instead use the Via Normale as your means of descent from Monte Agner, which is a much more attractive route anyway! '
I'd be interested to hear what your plans are.
Cheers, Graham

Andrew / Graham,

Thanks again, gentlemen, for such good advice. I do hope we happen to meet you along the way next month. I'll be sure to report back with a post how it all turns out.

Best regards,

Stu

Graham... thanks for all of the info. Much appreciated.

I was in fact hoping to make the agordo / pale di san martino area one of the places to explore on my upcoming visit. I haven't yet done any routes in that area (plus the routes do look interesting there).

I'm also eyeing a few routes in the southwestern periphery of the area, down around lake garda / rovereto / trento / verona area. We'll probably do a few of those when we first arrive (14-16th ish of July or thereabouts).

After that, though, we're likely to head to the Pale di. S. Martino area and the Agordo area. I'm thinking of one of the routes up Civetta; I'm thinking about the VF fiamme gialle up monte pelsa - that sounds nice, too. In the Pale di S. Martino, I'm thinking that VF bolver luigi sounds nice, challenging, and interesting. Oh, and also I've been wanting to do the ferrata up to the top of the Marmolada for a while now, so we'll probably aim for that as well.

Anything is a possibility, really, including some of the 5Cs you mentioned. We'll see how our little group of 4 do on some slightly less challenging ferrate before I push for those.

Sounds like you have a great spot to live in - if you can see the AGORD4 ferrata, then you must be somewhere around Agordo. wow! Perhaps we'll see you out on these routes? I would not be suprised, though, if you been up and down all of these a few times....

...Andrew

Hi Andrew
Right first time: yes, we live in Agordo.
You've got quite an agenda for a two week trip, so let's hope you get good weather, so you're not wasting time waiting for the storms to clear! I'm pleased to read that you're including the Lago di Garda area in your itinerary, although it'll be rather warm and humid in July, so try to make early starts if you can. Over the years we've used Arco as our base: it's a lovely, historically important little town, and with some really good gear shops - and one of the best ice-cream shops you'll ever come across (La Tariffa, on the main drag). Let me know if you want some suggestions for accomodation.
As for the rest of your trip, you have some interesting routes in mind. The only one that you mention which I'd have misgivings about is the Monte Pelsa route. John, my co-author researched this one, and did the initial write-up. You'll see that he was very enthusiastic about it, although quite why has always been a mystery to me! When I climbed it, with a couple of friends, we all hated it! Mind you, we were caught in a major storm on the way down, so that didn't help. Seriously though, in a short trip like the one you're planning, I think you can spend your time more profitably.
Graham

>Hi Andrew
>Right first time: yes, we live in Agordo.
>You've got quite an agenda for a two week trip, so let's hope you
>get good weather, so you're not wasting time waiting for the
>storms to clear!

Hi, Graham.

Our agenda does have a lot of stuff on it, but it is deliberately not firm - and if the weather is bad, we're going to head into nearby cities (e.g. go visit the Biennale in Venice or something like that) and do routes when the weather improves. And if that means that we don't do as many ferrate as possible, well... that's ok.

>I'm pleased to read that you're including the Lago di Garda area in
>your itinerary, although it'll be rather warm and humid in July, so
>try to make early starts if you can. Over the years we've used Arco
>as our base: it's a lovely, historically important little town, and
>with some really good gear shops - and one of the best ice-cream
>shops you'll ever come across (La Tariffa, on the main drag). Let me
>know if you want some suggestions for accomodation.

Hey, that's great information. Sure, I'd love your accommodation suggestions! Thank you so much!

>As for the rest of your trip, you have some interesting routes in
>mind. The only one that you mention which I'd have misgivings about
>is the Monte Pelsa route. John, my co-author researched this one, and
>did the initial write-up. You'll see that he was very enthusiastic
>about it, although quite why has always been a mystery to me! When I
>climbed it, with a couple of friends, we all hated it! Mind you, we
>were caught in a major storm on the way down, so that didn't help.
>Seriously though, in a short trip like the one you're planning, I
>think you can spend your time more profitably.

Hmm... interesting advice, and I'll definitely take it under consideration. Apart from the storm, what was it in particular that made you hate it? Unaesthetic? The iffy descent route? Poor protection? It certainly seemed nice in the description!

>Graham

Andrew

P.S. if anything that we're doing interests you, you are welcome to come along!

Hello again Andrew
About 3 years ago we found a really good apartment complex (La Porta del Cuore), and we've used it a couple of times a year ever since. It's in a quiet, leafy side street, but only about 2 minutes from the town centre. It has a range of different sized apartments, and secure basement car parking (parking can be a problem in the summer in Arco). The only drawback might be that there's a minimum stay of 3 nights in the high season, but that might well fit in with your plans, since there's stacks of good, hard climbing to be done in the area. The website is at: http://www.laportadelcuore.it
Like most places in Italy, the office closes down for a couple of hours at lunchtime, but the receptionist, Lucy, speaks excellent English.
Monte Pelsa: where do I start? The walk-in seems to go on for ever, with no views to speak of because of the tree cover. When you do actually start to climb, the rock is interspersed with more steep walking through the woods. As one of my English companions said 'if I'd wanted to go walking, I'd have stayed in the f****** lake district'! In my view, it's only the final 75m wall that's worthwhile, and then only if you do the harder option of the two. The descent is a stinker: at least it was in a storm. It involves a seemingly endless, steep gully, on rock which is so friable that close attention is needed the whole time, which isn't easy after a climb of 1300m or so. There's simply much better things to do with a day on a short trip.
Thanks for the invitation to join you: I might well come along, provided you're not doing Monte Pelsa!
Graham

Ok, good clarification on the Monte Pelsa route!

Interesting little spot, the 'porta del cuore'. I'll definitely look into what they have to offer.

As far as meeting up for an outing, we'll have to exchange contact information. Why don't you use the 'feedback' link (either on the left-hand side of the page or at the very bottom) to send me an e-mail address? (that way only I will see it, and not the whole world!). I can then give you my e-mail address and we can exchange more specific information that way.

...Andrew

Graham and Andrew,

My wife and I are planning a trip to the Dolomites during the beginning of September and I have a few questions for you:

1 Is the weather typically good this time of year? Are thunderstorms or snow common?
2 Are all cable cars/ski lifts open in September? When do they close for the season?
3 We are considering staying in Arabba as a base? Is Arabba a good location or would you recommend somewhere else?
4 Of the VF that you have done, what would be your top ten list of best VF?
5 What type of VF gloves do you recommend and where can you buy them in the states?

Thank you.

Hi, Richard

I've been to the Dolomites a couple of times in the fall, and it is a nice time of year for several reasons:

1) definitely quieter and less crowds.
2) weather CAN be very cool and refreshing.

But,

1) not all cable lifts are open. Of course, this may just mean a longer approach hike for a particular ferrata, if you are ok with that.

2) not all rifugios are open.

3) you may get an early snowfall. Probably not an issue in September, but it can happen.

My top list of ferrata (so far) are probably:

-Brigata Tridentina (Pisciadu Climbing Path)
-Ferrata dei finanzieri (Colac)
-Via delle Bocchette Centrale (in the Brenta)
-Trincee ferrata
-Col Rosa Ferrata
-Punta Fiammes Ferrata

I'll have more to add after I come back from my July trip, I'm sure.

As for gloves, I'd recommend anything relatively snug-fitting and with the fingers cut off. Home Depot might have some gardening gloves that fit the bill. Or even some cycling gloves might do as well.

Don't know too much about accommodations in Arabba, but I'd guess there'll be something appropriate for you there. It seems like most small towns have reasonable accommodations.

...Andrew

Andrew,
Thank you very much for the prompt reply. I have a few more questions, if you don't mind:
1. Do you know how I can find out which lifts will be open 9/2-9/10 (internet, etc)?
2. Have you done any via ferrata in Switzerland? Do you know of any guide books for Switzerland via ferrata?
Thanks again! Thanks for the route recommendations too, very helpful.
Richard

Andrew,
Thank you very much for the prompt reply. I have a few more questions, if you don't mind:
1. Do you know how I can find out which lifts will be open 9/2-9/10 (internet, etc)?
2. Have you done any via ferrata in Switzerland? Do you know of any guide books for Switzerland via ferrata?
Thanks again! Thanks for the route recommendations too, very helpful.
Richard

I am planning a trip to Italy to do the Boucchette Route this summer. Do i really need to buy new stiff boots? Will my three season comfy boots do - i would hike for weeks in them in the Himalaya but for Italy I seem to need more?

Hi, Richard

Unfortunately, I don't have any info on specific openings and closings of cablecar stations. I can only suggest calling or e-mailing a tourist office in the area you are interested in.

Secondly, don't know about ferrate in Switzerland. I'm sure there are some (and in France and probably other countries too), but I haven't done any research into that area. Perhaps Google 'klettersteig switzerland'?

Hi there

I think you'll be probably be fine in your 3-season boots on the ferrate delle Bocchette. Note that I've only done the Bocchette centrale section, but I found it was mostly ladders and ledges, so the actual climbing demanded of your boots is not super high.

...Andrew

Hi, Graham

Haven't heard from you after our last back-and-forth. If you are still interested in potentially meeting up for an outing, you can contact me by using my feedback form link to send an e-mail. The link is available in the sidebar, but here it is inline and you can just click straight away on it. If you are busy or meeting up for an outing doesn't work out, that's ok, too, and thanks for all of your great advice!

contact form

Hi Andrew
I've just sent a note through to you via the feedback form but, since this is my second attempt to get through to you by this means, I'm posting this to let you know that I've sent you my contact details.
If you don't get the feedback note, let me know and we'll think of something else!
Graham

Hi, I am hoping to go to Arabba early August to do some hiking and wonder if it is possible to get there without my own transport. I am living in Rome and will take public transport to the nearest big town. Also, I have been trying to check out budget accomodation on the net and seem to only get hotels or apartments! Any ideas of good websites or better still - can you reccommend any cheap accomodation for one mature lady! I am willing to wash dishes......

Hi
Does anyone have any info on the current state of the glaciar descent from punta penia?I saw some photos from a couple of years ago where the trail zig zagged around some pretty big crevasses.Is this avoidable if i was heading up myself?Anyone up for it last 2wks July?
There is a book on swiss Ferrata..they had it at george fishers in the lakes.Theres also a Klettersteig book for Austria and Germany,its good but beware,some of the info is out of date.Last year on one route a section of cable car i hoped to use had been removed..about 10years before!

This is a note mainly for June Carr, who was asking about getting to Arabba by public transport. Yes June, you can manage it, but it's quite a slow journey. If you're travelling from Venezia, there's only one bus a day which goes through to Arabba, and even then it only runs on workdays. It leaves Piazzale Roma at 15.55, and arrives in Arabba at 20.10. On the assumption that you'll want to go back the same way, you'll need to set your alarm clock! The return bus leaves Arabba at 06.20, and arrives in Venezia at 10.10.
You can pick up the same bus at Belluno, if that would be easier for you: it leaves at 18.10.
I guess you'll know Trenitalia's website at: http://www.trenitalia.com/en/index.html
which will help you plan your journey to Venezia or Belluno.
You were also asking about accommodation, but I can't really help you here. Arabba's become more developed and touristy over the 10 years I've known it, and the price of accommodation has gone up accordingly. There are still a few little guesthouses in the village though, but I think it would be unwise to turn up without booking ahead in August. The local tourist office should be able to help with better advice than I can offer, but I'm sure you can find a number of places at ?30-?40 a night for B&B (no dishwashing deals on offer though).
Anyway, have a great time, wherever you finish up!
Graham

Thanks Graham, all that information is really helpful. I will act on the advice and book ahead for accomodation. Thanks again, June

We just returned from a great several week trip to Italy. We completed the Roda de Vael, Masare, Gran Cir, Brigatta Tridentina, Torre Toblino, Monte Paterno and Torre Cadin routes. If anyone wants any beta on any of these, I'd be happy to share.

Hi Andrew
Anyone planning a trip to the area of Passo san Pellegrino should be aware that this route has now been closed for maintenance, with notices to that effect posted at each end.
It's a beautifully constructed, old wartime path but, over the years, a lot of fallen rock has accumulated on the surface of the route, along most of its length. Whilst it's perfectly easy to clamber over it, work is now to be carried out to remove several hundred boulders (they've all been marked with red crosses) to restore the integrity of the original construction. Some new cabling has already been installed, with more to come.
It's going to be a big job, and the route won't be formally reopened in the near future but, in the meantime, it's still a straightforward excursion until the work gets underway, although no timetable is yet available.

Hi!
We also are back from our first ferrata trip in Dolomites. Thank You for web material, it really helped. May I ask You for one more help if You can? One of our relaxing routes was Sentiero ... (excause me, for I do not have Smiths guidebook with me right now, but I hope the second name was Astaldi. In Smiths book it was found under Cortina as grade 1A under number 9 or so I think) witch starts at rif.Dibona (1.picture). Taking the way up to ferrata, I took some pictures, looking back to rif.Dibona - over the road (Cotina - Passo Falzarego) was gorgeous mountains (2.picture). But I was not able to find, what the name has these "ribs" (3.picture) if they has.
Excause for my English :(
Pictures:
http://kasis.lv/dolom1.jpg
http://kasis.lv/dolom2.jpg
http://kasis.lv/dolom3.jpg

Hi there. Nice pictures!

I'm not sure I exactly understand your question. Are you saying that you couldn't find the sentiero Astaldi, or are you asking about what the name of the rock strata encountered on the route is? or something else...?

We did the Sentiero Astaldi just a few weeks ago. This will be one of the new routes info will be posted for in the coming weeks on this website.

...Andrew

:) My English..
The question is, what is the name of mountain, seen in third picture

Hi there. Thanks for the clarification. The mountain in your picture is called 'Croda da Lago', maximum altitude 2715m. More info can be found here:

http://www.summitpost.org/area/range/152949/Croda-da-Lago.html

...Andrew

Thanks a lot!!

Is is possible to complete the Ivano Dibona route in one day with your own transportation? Any information is appreciated.

Hi there

well... I think you might need to use some sort of public transport if you only have one vehicle. I've only done the upper part of the route, not the whole thing end-to-end.

...Andrew

This is one for Richard, who was asking about the possibility of tackling this route using one's own transport. Andrew has already made the point that you'd need to use public transport if you only have one car available, and he's quite right. If you have two cars available you could drop one at the north-western end of the route, at Ospitale, and then drive back to the start at Rio Gere. However, you'd be committing yourselves to about 45 minutes of extra driving at the beginning and end of your day. With only one car, you'd need to get the bus into Cortina after completing the route, and then a second bus back to Rio Gere to pick up your car. The only sensible way to tackle this route, in my view, is to leave your car in Cortina, get the bus to Rio Gere, and then, after completing the route, get the bus back into Cortina to collect your car. The first bus from Cortina in the morning was at 08.35 last year, but you'd better check the current timetable at the bus station. There were buses back to Cortina at 16.10 & 18.40, but again these are last year's times and need checking. Whilst it's a fairly long route, the bus timetable gives you lots of time to complete the trip.

Graham and Andrew,

Thank you for the information. We will be in the Dolomites in early September and have the following VF on our to do list.

Gran Cir &Piz Da Cir V
Giovanni Barbara and Lucio Dalaiti
Santner Pass
Marino Bianchi & beginning of Ivano Dibona
Brigata Tridentina
Michielli Strobel
Delle Scallete
Via Delle Trincee
Ferrata Del Centenario SAT

Are there any of these routes that you would not recommend or other routes that you would recommend from those listed above?

Can you recommend some of the best hikes in the Dolomites?

Thanks again,

Richard

Hi Andrew: I'm eagerly awaiting your account of your recent trip but, in the meantime, here's some comments on Richard's proposed itinerary.
I think you're in danger of spending as much time driving as you are climbing! Your list includes stuff in the Sesto Dolomites, routes in the Cortina area and the Sella, the Catinaccio, and right across to Lake Garda (although that might be on the way back to the airport?) Since you asked for suggestions, here's a few points that might be useful.
I wouldn't waste a day on the Giovanni Barbara route: it used to be a pleasant outing but, since it was made more 'accessible' for tourists, it's been turned into a picnic site with wires. If you want to fill the slot with something in the same area, have a look at VF Ettore Bovero, which has really good climbing, although it's a bit short for the walking involved. Another route not on your list, and in an area you'll be visiting is Piz da Lech. It's an excellent route, and arrives at a summit with superb views.
You're then off to the Catinaccio, and have picked the Santner Pass route. If I only had one day in the area I'd personally choose VFs Masare & Roda de Vael. The former is quite hard for its grade, but the combination of the two makes for a really good day.
I see that, following your query about completing the Ivano Dibona route using your own vehicle, you've revised your plans. I think your current idea is the best way to spend a day on the Cristallo group and doesn't raise the problem of retrieving your car. Incidentally, the upper part of the Marino Bianchi route now has a separate, partly cabled, descent route, which reduces the problem of congestion.
You'll enjoy the delle Scalette route in the Sesto, but why not also do the de Luca/Innerkofler route on the way back to Rif. Auronzo. You can easily do both in a day (but take a torch for the tunnels).
Finally, you asked about hiking in the Dolomites, although I don't know when you're going to fit it in! For my money, the finest walking in the Dolomites is in the Tofane/Lagazuoi area, north of Passo Falzarego.
Have a great time!
Graham

Hi,

Wow, lots of info here.

I will be in Italy the last two weeks in Sept visiting a cousin near Trento. I was hoping to find someone who could give me or point me to some in-depth info on the Bocchette Centrale route.

Hi, Peter

I just came back from doing most of the Bocchette Centrale route, and I'll be putting up new route descriptions on this page in the next few weeks on just that. Stay tuned.

...Andrew

Ok, looking forward to it.

Andrew, You Rock! Thank you Graham for your very helpful input too.

We are off for a fun advenuture to VF in the Dolomites and your site is invalueable.

Best,
Margaret

Hi, Peter

Wait a second... I just realized -- I've already done the Bochette Centrale! So, you can just go to the page that describes it (I assume you haven't yet based on your earlier post):

Via Bocchette Centrale Description

Andrew,

Thanks for the link, I missed it. I am going through a bit of a steep learning curve about the VF and the geography of Italy. If I understand correctly most if not all of the routes you have posted on your site will be within a short drive from were I will be visiting. Ragoli is the name of the village, and it is just south of the Bocchette Centrale, about an hour or less by car. Mmmmm this is going to be better than I thought.

Graham,

Thank you for the information. I will definitely follow your advice.

Richard

Hi Andrew - Great site. I have just got back from Julian Alps in Slovenia and would highly recommend it to anyone who fancies some high mountain routes with pegs and cables to protect the exposed parts, but who doesn't feel quite ready for a fully fledged via ferrata. My question is this : a friend has said that it is easier and cheaper to buy harnesses, helmets, y-ropes etc in Italy, and that there are plenty of shops in the towns of the Dolomites. Is this your experience too. Please advise: bbulaitis@googlemail.com

Hello. I have heard of what you say, but in my particular case I've never tried to buy or rent gear from local stores in the dolomites. Perhaps if Graham is reading the forum, he can comment (since he lives in the dolomites and likely has had more contact with local stores).

...Andrew

Hi Bernard
I've just seen your query about buying gear, and Andrew's suggestion that I might have something to add.
Your friend is right: most towns, even relatively small villages, in the Dolomites sell VF gear. Of course, the larger the town, the greater the number of outlets and, competition being what it is, the better the price. When I need new gear I tend to visit either Cortina, Bolzano, or Arco (north of Lake Garda), each of which has a good range of shops with a lot of gear from which to choose. Actually, I think that's the main advantage to buying stuff here: the wider choice available. I've seen quite a few shops in the mountain areas of the UK where it's possible to buy VF kits, but the range on offer is pretty limited (I?d guess that the same applies to gear shops in the States and Canada as well). In my view, one of the main things to look for when buying ready made VF sets is the type of karabiner included: in fact, that would be the factor which would determine my choice. I?ve used quite a lot of designs which are sold as suitable for VFs, but my strong preference is for the type where the gate is released by pressure from the heel of the thumb, which is naturally applied when the krab is offered up to the cable. This type is available from Salewa, Mammut and Camp (I use Salewa Attac G2s).
As to whether gear is cheaper here than elsewhere, that?s more difficult. The only comparison I can make with confidence is with the UK and, yes, it?s cheaper here in the Dolomites ? at the moment. My reason for putting it that way is the effect of varying exchange rates (over the 8 year life of the euro, there?s been a big variation in its value against sterling).
If you want to do a bit of research on prices and choice, have a look at www.sportler.com . Sportler are quite a large chain, and claim to be the biggest outdoor equipment shop in the alps: they certainly have an enormous shop in Bolzano.
Graham

Hi Andrew
I've just looked at your report of your day on this super route - congratulations on an excellent presentation!
Meg & I did this route 5 years ago now, and we haven't had the opportunity to go back, so I'd be interested to know if the diversion between Gallerie 41 & 42 is still in place. I would hope that the route had been repaired by now, but the landslip which was the problem was a pretty big one, so perhaps it's still not reinstated?
Incidentally, you obviously had a much better day than we had, weatherwise!
Graham

Hi, Graham

Yes, the 'detour' around the slide is still there - but there is a quite reasonable 'herdpath' (i.e. unofficial footpath) that traverses over the slide, and we took that. It wasn't at all bad, and the footing on this new little footpath is good.

...Andrew

Hi Andrew,
great web site, congratulations! Contents and Photographs are of a very high quality.
I've noticed some great ferrate are still not here:
- Lipella in Tofana di Rozes
- Costantini in Moiazza (Civetta group)
- Stella Alpina in Monte Agner (Pale di San Martino Group)
- Tomaselli in Fanis Group.
....
It would be a pleasure to meet you in one of these routes next time you'll come in the Dolomites.
Ciao and thank you for the good job.
Paolo

Hi, Paolo

Thank you very much for the compliments on the web site.

All of the ferrata you've listed below interest me very much, and I look forward to doing them at some point. Who knows, maybe we will meet on a route (I'll have to rely on you saying hi, because you will of course be able to recognize me).

...Andrew

Hellow Andrew et al:
A very helpful site - thanks for sharing all your info and experiences. A question that I'm hoping you or someone who visits this site can answer:
I will be traveling to Italy in mid-October and am very interested in a mix of overnight hiking (1-2 nites max), day hikes, and small town ramblings. I am thinking of 3 days in the Dolomites. The various hikes in the Brenta region and the Via Ferrata sound amazing, but it seems that most of the refugio are closed in mid-Oct. What do you recommend?
Is it possible to take one-day trips to the area that would allow me to see the beauty of the dolomites but then still return to a town that has accommodations? Are there any refugio still open at that time that would be worthwhile to plan a trip around? Is the region in general just too cold and snowy and I should plan my time elsewhere in Italy.
Thanks for all your help! Karen

Hi there.

The general answer to your question about whether it is too cold or snowy in October is....

It depends.

I've been in the Dolomites in October when there wasn't a stitch of snow, and I've been in September when we got dumped on. So, you'll have to play that one by ear.

As for rifugios, it does seem that most are closed in October (perhaps Graham knows of some that aren't). Also, most of the lift systems are shut down, too, so that may hamper your access. However, there are many routes that can be done in a day (e.g. Col Rosa and Punta Fiammes near Cortina, both of which are lower-ish in altitude and which don't require any chairlifts to get to). In the Brenta Group, something like the Sentiero SOSAT could be done as a day hike from the Vallesinella parking lot. There are other examples as well.

If you look at my writeups, you can usually tell if it is going to be more suitable for an October outing:

(a) is it relatively short distance-wise?
(b) is it at a relatively low elevation (i.e. less chance of snow/ice)?
(c) is it described with a chairlift approach?

The best options will be the ones where (a), (b), and (c) are all true.

Hi Andrew & Karen
Well, the snow's arrived already! Here in Agordo, we've had quite heavy rain for the last 2 days and, of course, it's been falling as snow above about 1500m. Is it here to stay for the winter, though? The forecast is for temperatures to climb again over the next few days, but it's anybody's guess whether that will be sustained sufficiently for the snow to melt away. Last year we had warm, sunny weather right through till the end of October, but that was pretty exceptional: we often get quite deep snow cover during September, and it looks as though this year might be falling into that pattern. That doesn't necessarily mean that the Dolomites become a no-go area, but you need to bring along the right equipment and clothing, and perhaps limit yourself to rather lower level walking.
As far as rifugios are concerned, most have now closed or are about to do so. The only ones which will remain open during October would be those with road access and which can therefore expect steady business throughout the year. But you can certainly enjoy some great day excursions from valley bases, so don't get too hung up on the closure of rifugios.
Andrew mentioned the usefulness of the lift systems, but again most have now closed until the start of the winter season. There are, however, a couple which have unusually long summer seasons because they attract large numbers of visitors right into the autumn. These are the Passo Pordoi lift (into the Sella group) and the Passo Falzarego lift (into the Lagazuoi group), and both open up some wonderful high mountain walking opportunities. The Pordoi lift is open till 21st October, and the Falzarego lift till the 5th November.

Hello Andrew,

I am planing on going to do some via ferrata next year with my brother. I found your site and find it very helpful. All the information are so well displayed and very useful. Thanks a lot for sharing all of this.

I have a question for you, because of time problems, we will only be able to go to the dolomites in mid or maybe end of May. Could the weather be a problem at that time of the year?

Thanks for your answer
Great web site!!!

Bob

Hi there.

You may find that there is still significant snow in the higher dolomites in May. Keep this in mind when planning your routes; it may well turn the higher ferratas into true alpine mixed climbs.

The lower regions / routes should be fine at that time of year (e.g. punta fiammes, che guevara, etc). Have a look at the route descriptions to see what the maximum altitude of each is. You can then use this as a guide for what routes are more likely to be 'in shape' in May.

...Andrew

Hey Andrew,

I really appreciate your quick answer. I already bought a lot a new gears to be ready for some cold weather in may, I am still deciding on the shoes. I was also wondering if all the routes will be open at that time and if we will be able to do vias like the Bochette central and Bochette Alte?

Well once again thanks a lot for your answers and once again amazing job for you web site!!!!

take it easy!

Bob

Hi Again, and thanks for the compliments on the web site.

I'm not sure what you mean by the term 'open'. If you mean 'passable', then my finger-in-the-air guess is that you have a less than 50% chance that routes like the Bocchette Centrale and Bocchette Alte will be passable.

When I say 'passable', I mean it in terms of climbing it with all or most of the wire available for you to use, and with no terrain requiring extensive use of ice ax, crampons or ropes.

The transition from a 'passable' route to a 'not passable' route, as they say, is gray, and it is moveable. I don't know what your particular mountaineering skill level is - perhaps you are ok with stretches of buried wire or hard ice above extreme exposure. So, what may be easy for person A may be extremely difficult for person B. It depends.

Again, I'll repeat my initial statement. In May, I'd say there is a greater than 50% chance that the high routes in the Brenta will be in winter condition, requiring more than basic ferrata climbing skills.

There are far more experienced people than me on this forum. Anyone else on here care to comment? Graham, perhaps?

...Andrew

Both skilled mountaineers, both myself and collegue are planning a trip to the Dolomites in early November. Never having VF'd before, are the routes above 2000 completely out of the question due to icing of cables etc, Can you recommend any suitable routes or should we give it a miss?

Both skilled mountaineers, both myself and collegue are planning a trip to the Dolomites in early November. Never having VF'd before, are the routes above 2000 completely out of the question due to icing of cables etc, Can you recommend any suitable routes or should we give it a miss?

Hi Andrew
Thanks for the invitation to comment on Bob's recent queries about VFs in late May. I see that similar issues have also been raised by Steve, who's considering a trip in November. I think your advice to Bob, that he has only a 50% chance of finding routes in condition in May, is about right. I also agree with your suggestion that he should be looking at areas outside the Dolomites proper, such as Lake Garda, Bassano del Grappa and Vicenza, where there is excellent climbing to be found. These areas don't get the exposure they deserve, particularly since you can pretty much guarantee good climbing conditions throughout the whole year.
Steve's thoughts of a November trip to climb Dolomite VFs seem to me to be incredibly optimistic. It seems to me, Steve, that it depends on what you really want to do. If you want to climb VFs in November, then forget about the Dolomites, and go to the areas I mentioned above. If a visit to the Dolomites is more important, then come prepared for full-on winter conditions. You'd be hard pressed to find any cables at that time of year, unless you tackle some of the steepest, and therefore hardest, routes. The other issue you should consider is snow conditions. November falls into that difficult period in the Dolomites, where ther's quite a lot of snow, but it's not consolidated enough to climb safely.

Dear Graham,
First of all thank you so much for you and Andrew to answer to my questions so rapidly.
I can now realize by your answers that we might get into a real challenge by going in the Dolomites in May but we want to do the Bochette so bad...
I have been once in Lake Garda and know how beautifull is this part of Italy. I was wondering if there are via ferratas as well over there or if it is regular rock climbing. If so where can I found info about those vias?
Well have a good day guys
Thanks again

Bob

Hi.

I myself have only done two ferratas in the Lake Garda area (and one a little further away to the east). These are all documented on my web page here - just go to the ferrata overview map and you'll see them over by Lake Garda.

As for the rest... well, they are well documented in the Fletcher/Smith Ferrata guidebook, or you could ask on other web sites on the 'net.

Or wait until I get chance to do more of them... ;-)

...Andrew

Hi guys,

I'm bobby, bob's brother.
First, congratulations for this wonderful website and this huge amount of information.
We got well your 50-pourcent-chance-of-going-thru-in-May piece of advice. What do you think about last 2 weeks of june? Any chance to get better conditions ? Actually, we'd like to find a compromise between about-nice weather and about-not-crowded via ferratas.
I've seen on the website that you had your GPS track reported on a "real" chart. Did you load digital charts of dolomites on a GPS to do that? If so, could you tell me where you got those digital charts?
Thank you.
Cordialement,

Bobby

Hi there, Bobby

Yes - the end of June is likely going to improve your chances of getting an 'in-condition' ferrata route. There will still likely be some late season snow lingering in deep gullies or north-facing aspects of slopes. So... if there is any chance of that, you might want to consider taking an ice ax and crampons (this sort of thing varies depending on the type of route). Either that or try and pick routes that have a generally south-facing aspect.

In any case, your chances of good conditions, I'd say, go from 50% to probably 90 or 95%.

Regarding my tracks - those are simply paper topographic maps (scanned-in by me) that have had my GPS tracklog (i.e. the one I took while on the climb) drawn on top by me.

...Andrew

Hi Andrew,

Thank you for your precious help and quick answer.
See ya

The Bob frenchies

Hello,
My friend who has just came back from his Asia tour, told me about a World's Highest Via Ferrata that was just open in Oct 2007 on Mount Kinabalu in Sabah, Malaysian, Borneo.
Has anyone heard of this or try it?
Jason

They are many ferratas around Garda lake. Some of them are unknowned by strangers because not celebrated. Nevertherless they are beautiful and sometimes athletics.
I done some of them last summer, and some years ago:
- Amicizia ironway on SAT-pike (Riva Del Garda), grade C /D, 6 hours ;
- Dei Colodri ironway ( Arco Di Trento), grade A/B, 4 hours;
- Rio Salagoni ironway ( Dro), grade C/D, 3 hours;
- Favogna ironway ( Favogna / Fernberg), grade B/C, 5/6 hours;
- Gerardo Sega ( Avio, Molini valley), grade C/D, 6/7 hours;
- Giulo Segata ( Rovereto, prati di Viote), grade D and E, 3 hours;

and those one I don't make:
- De Gasperi ( prati di Viote);
- Campalani (Ilasi valley);
- Angelo Viali ( Arzignano);
- Che Guevara ( Pietramurata).

I climbed on that one celebrated:
- Rino Pisetta ferrata (Sarche), grade E, 5 hours;
- Ottomarangoni ferrata (Mori), grade E, 2/3 hours.


Bonne grimpe , salutations sportives .

Hey Andrew,

Dude - your website rocks. I stumbled across it a few years back and was amazed by the pictures. Didn't think I was ever going to get to Italy to experience it...but just getting divorced and I've got the time and money now...So thanks man. I'm pretty sure I've convinced a friend of mine to make the trek to Europe summer of 2008. Really, the website and all the pics and info are truly inspiring. Kudos.

Ow , British Columbia , what a pleasure as souvenir for myself !
I was in september 2007 in Victoria on Vancouver Island.
A very long trip from Europe .
In Canada it seems to be a lonely ferrata :
http://www.whistlerguides.com/summer/ferrata/ferrata.htm
Soon olympics games with Inuits ?

Well , what a great discussion on that message board !
Allright... I give you a small information about a new ferrata since 2007 : in Brescia area's , Idro lake ,Crench ferrata is its name.
Good chat !

Hi, Aruges

Thank you for the information. Always nice to know about new vie ferrate.

...Andrew

Sandro Pertini ironway in val Gardena is definitively dismantled since few weeks.The Italian opposition group take this decision because the ferrata was in an natural parc. (Aruges past message).

Correction:V.F. Pertini was not dismantled but only closed at that time. Since 2008 february beginning, the European Council decide to open it again.
Localization : Selva town, Vallunga, national park Puez and Gardenaccia.

Hi Aruges
Thanks for posting your updated information about this route. I haven't had chance to look at it yet, but hope to do so this summer. In the meantime, I'd be interested to know where you heard about the reopening.
Graham

Hi Andrew,
I know that this website is devoted to Dolomits ironways only but I thought that some of european ferratists visiting your own website ( english,canadian, austrian, italian,etc...) will probably be interesting to discover french ferratas.
So I can give for all the link. There are about 130 french ferratas and everybody can read easy the ironway technical cards and comments , translated in english.
I believe that this french ferrata website is actually the one to propose everybody an exhaustive translation french to english language.
What do you think Andrew ?

Sure, I can post a link to the site from here (I think that is what you are asking, correct?)

...Andrew

O.K. it's alright Andrew.
This is the link:
http://www.laviaferrata.fr/
You can have your own on that french site, do you want it ?
Thanks.

Hello andrew,great site about a wonderful place, ive been doing via ferrata climbing in the dolomites for 4 years now i cannot get enough of cortina and surrounding areas, i was wondering in the val di fassa area is rotwand and masare routes known as fassa 1 and fassa 2?

Hi Fletch
(this could be confusing, since some of my friends call me Fletch!). Anyway, this is to clarify the names of the routes you mention in the Val di Fassa area.
FASSA 1 is VF Laurenzi, which runs along the Molignon ridge, in the northern Catinaccio. It's quite a hard route (we graded it at 4C), but is a great day's climbing.
FASSA 2 is nearby, but very different in character (and easier; it's 2B).
FASSA 3&4 are in the southern Catinaccio, and are known as VF Masare and VF Roda de Vael. They're nearly always climbed together, and often appear in Italian and German guidebooks as one route, known simply as VF Masare. They're fairly straightforward climbs, but are in a superb situation, so well worth doing.
Hope that clears things up, and encourages you to look further than Cortina for your climbing.
Graham

Hi,
about Sandro Pertini news, it's here:
http://www.vb33.it/news/ti1202205268.htm
Bolzano february 2008.

Hi

Ok, I've added the link to laviaferrata.fr in my 'other sites' section (available from the left-hand sidebar menu). Or, you can go direct to it from here.
And sure, I'll gladly take a link from your site to mine. That would be great!

hello andrew

thanks for the advise mate!

Very well, Andrew, I see it on "the other sites", thanks again.
You will have your own link on the french site. It will be a good thing for french ferratists to have goods informations about Dolomites routes.
Bye.

I'm looking t organise a trip to do the Bocchette Centrale route with a group of friends in August. I'd be grateful if anyone has advice on whether it is still safe to do it at this time of year in terms of weather and if the rifugio are still open. I was also like to know how best to get from the UK to Trento , which I gather is the closest major centre. I've only done a small amount of vis ferrata but have spent a lot of time in the hiking in the mountains and feel that this route is not too much of a stretch in terms of skill level. Is this a correct assumption?

Cheers,

Toby

Does anyone know where to rent ferrata gear in the Arco or Riva area? We will be spending a few days there during a whirlwind Italy tour in early June. We don't want to drag harnesses helmets etc from Alaska then all around Italy for only a few days of use. Any info would be helpful. Thanks, Mark

Hi Toby. The only part of your question which is easy to answer is about the rifugi in the Brenta: yes, they?re open, but it?s the busiest time of the year, so it?s essential to book ahead. You refer specifically to just one of the routes in the Brenta, but I guess you plan on doing a traverse taking in several vie ferrate along the way. The weather in such high mountains is never to be taken for granted, and these are all serious routes, so you need to be properly prepared and equipped, even in high summer. I get the impression that you?re just starting to plan your trip, and I think you have quite a bit of research to do before you begin to finalise your plans.
As to your group?s ability to tackle such routes, it?s impossible to give you any advice without knowing a lot more about what you?ve done before. Don?t forget though that, even if the routes you plan to do aren?t particularly difficult technically, they?re still a serious undertaking.
Getting to the Brenta is easiest if you fly to Brescia (Ryanair from Stanstead) and then hire a car, but if you?re planning on staying in rifugi for the duration of your trip you?ll probably prefer to use public transport. The best starting point for your trip is Madonna di Campiglio, on the western side of the Brenta and you can get a bus there from the centre of Brescia, but it takes a few hours, and there are a limited number of services each day. You can also get to Madonna from Trento, but again it?s not the easiest journey, and you?ve got the added problem of getting to Trento in the first place. As I said, you?ve got a lot of research to do!
Graham

Hi Mark
Whilst there are quite a few good gear shops in the area, particularly in Arco, I don't recall a hire service in any of them. The best two shops in town are Red Point, and Gobbi Sport, so I suggest you e-mail them with your query.
Graham

your web site is fanstastically helpful well done! my question, is it absolutely necessary to have a full body harness for via ferrata or will a standard sport climbing harness do the job? thank you

Hi, and glad you like the site.

I personally (and the people I have done ferratas with) have used only standard waist climbing harnesses. I haven't had any issues, but it is in theory more possible to flip upside down without a chest harness if you take a fall (more so if you have a big pack on).

So... personal preference is the answer, I guess. I think I'd say it is safER to use a chest harness, but not necessary.

...Andrew

I have to repeat what everyone else says. Great website. Absolutely thorough and well-presented. When do you have time to earn money for all these trips?

Do you have the GPS track logs for your 2007 VFs? I would like to use them to verify routes on a few that I want to hit up this summer. I've been on the Strada del Galleria a few times, but didn't realize there was a Via Ferrata until last week.

For you and your buddies...I have an apartment in Vicenza that will be vacant during July (military exercise) and most of August (Kilimanjaro hike). If you know someone that needs a base of operations, let me know.

andrew.lotze at us.army.mil

Hi guys and girls,

We are looking at doing the Madonna di Campiglio heading via the Tuckett and Alimonta Huts.

We will be heading there 'out of season' - the first week in October when they seem to be 'closed'. Are they fully shut or is it a case of us carrying food etc.

Also any if any of you have done this out of season do you have any advice?

Many thanks

Iain

Hi.

You are right: as far as I know, both of those rifugios are closed in October. I don't know if part of them are available for sleeping only. Perhaps Graham is lurking on this forum and knows....
October can indeed be quite nice, assuming you are not unlucky enough to get an early-season snowfall. Quiet and uncrowded!
...Andrew

Hut Contact Details & Opening Times

Hello again Andrew

I?ve just noticed the request for information from Iain: I?ve actually been lurking in Alto Adige (great mountain biking, by the way), rather than on the forum. Anyway, here are a few comments to add to your own about Iain?s plans.
Firstly, it?s not clear what routes you have in mind Iain, but I?m guessing that you?re considering following part of the main spine of the Brenta, along the Bocchette Alta and Centrale routes. Like pretty well everything in the Brenta, these are high level, serious routes, so I?d take along a rope, ice-axe and crampons since you?re travelling so late in the year. Andrew?s right about it being quiet and uncrowded then, but that?s mainly because there?s a fair chance that you?ll be ?snowed-off?. Consequently, it would be wise to have a Plan B to fall back on if the winter snows have arrived by then.
All of the higher level rifugios close before the end of September, and none to my knowledge have any winter/emergency facilities: the Tuckett and Alimonta huts certainly don?t. The lifts will also have closed down by then, so you have to be prepared for a walk-in from Madonna.
Graham

Hi guys and girls,

We are looking at doing the Madonna di Campiglio heading via the Tuckett and Alimonta Huts.

We will be heading there 'out of season' - the first week in October when they seem to be 'closed'. Are they fully shut or is it a case of us carrying food etc.

Also any if any of you have done this out of season do you have any advice?

Many thanks

Iain

I just wanted to say what's up to the creator of this great presentation. I was researchin the name "Detassis" as that is the old original name for the very powerful Bavarian family of Thurn und Taxis... The created the first real postal service in Europe in the 16th century and I remebered a simiolar sounding name of one of the Via Ferratas I did as a kid with my faily in the Brenta Group..so I googled the name and found this site and got pretty emotional looking at all this great pictures. I grew up in Padova but spent every august til age 15 with my parents in a little town in Val di Non called Coredo and did many of those ferratas and generally have spent the warmest and happiest times of my life there.... I'm 32yrs old and been in the USA since 1993 I go to Padova every year but I have not gone back to the Dolomites since at least 1991 and after all these yrs I've been missing those sites so much (I live in NYC !!) it makes wanna plan my nexct trip there...maybe this august !!! ... Grazie e ciao !

Hello Everyone,

My husband and I are planning a week long trek and climb of some ferrata from September 12-17. We plan on going from Sesto to Misurina and staying at various refugios. Will all of them still be open at that time AND how do we easily contact them to make reservations? Over the phone is difficult with the time difference from the US and we're wondering if contacting a travel agent or climbing club may be easier?

Thanks Much!
Jennifer

Hi - looking for some advice please guys.

Heading over the to the Dolomites this weekend with some friends and 2/3 of us were looking at the Tomaselli as a "highlight" to the trip.

We've never climbed on VFs before, but has climbed "proper" routes (up to about HVS UK grade) although not for some years admittedly.

Trying to make some sense of the VF grades isn't easy if you're not used to them. How does the 5C of the Tomaselli compare to say a V Diff rock climb? Or scrambling eg like Curved Ridge in Glencoe? I appreciate the exposure is probably the biggest difference, but in terms of techinical difficulty, is it hard, or is it relatively easy scrambling with BIG exposure?

Also, in terms of kit, would a rope/some gear be useful in addition to the usual VF kit?

Many thanks - any advice/comments welcome.

DM

Hi Jennifer
Yes, the rifugios in the Sesto Dolomites will still be open when you travel, but the only way of booking them is by making contact directly with the individual managers, since there?s no centralised booking facility. A very few (for example Rifugio Auronzo) have an e-mail address, but otherwise you need to phone them. However, in mid-September, the pressure on accommodation is greatly reduced, so you can be reasonably certain of getting accommodation at the 11th hour, either by just walking in, or by ringing ahead a day or two before. I?ll attach a link to the relevant section of the CAI website which gives you the information you?ll need, but don?t forget that some rifugios are privately owned (I recall that Rif. Pian di Cengia is one such).
http://rifugi.cai.it/ricerca%20avanzata/ricercaAvanzata
Graham

Hi Darren
I reckon it?s almost impossible to equate rock climbing and VF grades, partly because it depends on how much use you make of the cable on a VF ? look at the section ?Cable Etiquette? in the Cicerone guidebook to see what I mean. Several pitches on the Tomaselli route would be very hard, and one (?The Nose?, which is photographed in the route description) would be way beyond most climbers, without the cable. And yes: you do have pretty big exposure as well!
However, you say that this route would be the highlight of your trip, which I presume means that you?ll be doing some other, easier routes first. That will enable you to ?calibrate? your standard of climbing against the guidebook grades, so you?ll be able to make a properly considered judgement. I certainly wouldn?t suggest that you should lug ropes and other heavy gear along with you, although a quickdraw is often useful to clip in to the cable if you want to have a rest or take photos. I also usually carry a couple of fairly long slings just in case anyone feels the need for a tow.
Incidentally, we?re having a spell of cold, wet weather out here in the Dolomites at the moment, with snow falling at about 2500m (Tomaselli tops out at nearly 3000m). It?s due to warm up later in the week, but you might find that your plans need to be rethought at the last minute! You should check out the latest weather situation on the link below before you set off.
http://www.arpa.veneto.it/bollettini/htm/dolomiti_meteo.asp
Graham

Thanks Graham for the feedback - yes we're doing some easier routes first so hopefully that will give us a feeling for the grading.

I can put my climbing rack away then!!

Hope the weather improves - was hoping for shorts and t-shirt at 3,000m - maybe not! Down jacket packed anyway just in case.

Thanks again. Will post a note letting you know how we got on.

Regards

D

Thanks Graham for the feedback - yes we're doing some easier routes first so hopefully that will give us a feeling for the grading.

I can put my climbing rack away then!!

Hope the weather improves - was hoping for shorts and t-shirt at 3,000m - maybe not! Down jacket packed anyway just in case.

Thanks again. Will post a note letting you know how we got on.

Regards

D

Thanks Graham for the feedback - yes we're doing some easier routes first so hopefully that will give us a feeling for the grading.

I can put my climbing rack away then!!

Hope the weather improves - was hoping for shorts and t-shirt at 3,000m - maybe not! Down jacket packed anyway just in case.

Thanks again. Will post a note letting you know how we got on.

Regards

D

Hi, I'm keen to do some medium to difficult level via's and hiking between refugios somewhere in the Dolomites 21-25 Jul 08. Is there anyone available at that time who would like to buddy up?

Hi I'm max from (near) Venice

I run 50+ vie ferrate in Dolomites so I know mst of vie ferrate in your list. What i want to say is: great site ! IMHO is one of the best about this argument available.

I met your site looking for Via ferrata al Canalone (Val di Canali) I'd like to run in 2-3 weeks.

Congratulations

Max 'Guderian'

Hi I'm taking three of my kids down the Alta Via 1 in August and trying to get a sense of how tricky the VF will be at the end.We are all experienced Dolomite treckers and the oldest aged 20 has a lot of climbing experience.The other two are 14 and 16 yrs.Ideally I would like to hire VF equipment at the start of the Alta Via....but I wouldnt be able to return it there unless by post !So i guess we'll have to buy it in the UK.
Better that than losing them.you get quite fond of the kids in the end !
Any comments/suggestions ?

The VF you encounter at the southern end of the AV1 is VF Marmol, graded 3B in the Cicerone guidebook. It?s a pretty straightforward route, and shouldn?t pose any problems for you and your kids - unless one of you suffers from vertigo, since there is a bit of exposure on some sections. I just wonder, though, whether it?s really worth lugging heavy VF gear with you for ten days or so, just for two or three hours of climbing. You can always take the official (and therefore waymarked) variation to the west, past Rif. Bianchet, or another variation on the east side of the Schiara, on paths 528 &527. If you want to climb VFs, then plan a trip to do just that.
However, if you?re still determined to stick to the main route, then you do need to gear yourselves up: unless you?re all pretty experienced and confident, this isn?t a route to tackle without the necessary protection. Of course, you can buy the gear you need in the UK but, depending on how you?re planning to travel to your start point, it might be better to wait till you arrive in Italy, since the choice of gear is much wider. Up to a year ago, I?d have also said it would be cheaper, but the strength of the euro has put paid to that!
Graham

HI

Does anyone know if the VF Eterna is doable currently, each time I've been to the start over the last few years it has had a warning attached to it saying it's under construction and that's scared me off each time.

Is it just to keep muppets off it or is it OK to go?

Answers much appreciated

Martin

This route is definitely closed! It was never well protected, and much of the cable finally gave up the ghost and has been removed. It's a pity, since it was a superb route, but it's impossible to say when, or indeed whether, it'll be reopened. In the meantime, there are lots of other great routes to do!
Graham

Great site!

I have been to the Dolomites a couple of times, but always in July/August. I wonder if somebody could advice me on the weather and possibilities for climbing via ferratas during mid/late September. My mate and I are aiming at the more difficult routes, such as the Civetta routes and VF Tomaselli.

Thanks in advance
Klaus (Danish, highest point 178m above sea)

Hi.

September can be very nice. You usually get a nice quiet atmosphere. However, there are two or three main issues:

1) the rifugios and lifts start to close. Some are still open in mid to late September, but many aren't.

2) there is a chance you'll get an early snow, that will make many of the high altitude routes much more difficult.

...Andrew

Graham

Thanks for that info, I'm glad I stumbled across this site, otherwise I'd have given it a go this time!! I've seen a few photos on line of the closed notice with people having climbed past it, so good job I asked.

Two other questions. Is the lift open from the end of Punta Anna back towards Cortina this weekend coming?

Does anyone know the current state of the glacier coming off the MArmolada from the Punta Penia route? I've done it before when there were no crevasses at all, but wanted to check curent status before I return with some friends next week

Thanks in advance

MArtin

Answers to those questions I don't personally know. Perhaps if Graham F. is lurking around here, he'll answer.

...Andrew

This is one for Martin. Yes, the Tofana cable car is open: it has quite a long season, remaining open till 14th September this year.
As for the current state of the glacier on Marmolada, I?ve only seen it from the other side of the valley this summer, so can?t really advise. However, whatever its condition today, might not prevail till next week! It?s proving to be rather an unsettled summer, with fairly frequent snowfalls above 2500m, so you should seek advice locally when you arrive.
Graham

Aruges was good enough, back in March, to advise us that the new route, VF Sandro Pertini, near Selva di Gardena, had been reopened. Well, I?ve now had chance to climb it, and it?s as good as its reputation suggested! I hope the next edition of the Cicerone guidebook will contain a full description of the route but, in the meantime, you?ll find a note in the updates section of the Cicerone website. If anyone is interested in climbing the route, and you really should if you?re in the area, you can read about it at:
http://www.cicerone.co.uk/product/detail.cfm/book/362/title/via-ferratas-italian-dolomites--vol-1
Graham

Hi All,

Just came back from Cortina after a week of ferrate and climbing...

Yes, a lot of snow last Monday, 13 Jul above 2400 meters...quite a bit of rain too...and looks like much convective activity on a weekly basis...

Andrew, did the Tomaselli and the Lipella....I think you would enjoy these...I don't think you have them in your index. Very nice routes; the Tomaselli is challenging, the Lipella is long and dumps out to a trail that allows to the top of the Tofana di Roses.

Also; this is a wonderful website, thanks for the work.

Joe G
gagsfighter@yahoo.com

Hello,
I have been looking everywhere to find out what the busiest time in Ortisei is but I can't find it. Could anyone tell what the busiest time in Ortisei is?

Now!! It's never exactly a peaceful spot, but July and the first three weeks of August are the most frantic.
Graham.

Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hi,
Thanks.

Its probably busiest then because it is winter and lots of skiers go there to ski. Ortisei is really pretty!

Do you know why it is popular with Italians?

hi all

just returned from a super week in Dolomites, did several routes we've done before but also a new one at Col de Bos, which isn't in the guidebooks.

Col De Bos. A fifteen minute walk East north East from Lagazuoi cable car car park takes you on a more or less level traverse around the obvious nose on the skyline, past the old WW1 hospitalbuildings to the foot of Col de Bos. the ferrata is pretty much brand new, with great equipment and follows a cracking route probably grade 3B. As usual the first 30 meters are the most tricky, Takes about 2 and a half hours and pops you out on a cliff top, with great views.

Descent is either by a loose zig zag path adjacent and obvious from the route, or slighlty longer route back to the 402 near Lagazuoi.

Thoroughly recommended to all

M

Hallo,

Being 'climbing parents' of 2 sons (4 and 7 years old) we decided during our holiday in Arco to walk/climb some via ferrata with our kids. We did 4 routes: 3 of them were great and also possible with little children (nevertheless they are 1.20m and 1.40m ;-)). One route simply was impossible because of the big steps (near castello Drena).
Biggest problem we experienced was to try and find out wich via ferrata (besides the difficulty rating and distance, but most of the time that can be 'discovered' in books and maps) was possible for children in terms of stepsize and distance between cable and steps!
Does anyone have tips were to get that kind of info (for routes anywhere not just the Dolomites), or has experience (with or without kids) and knows routes that can be done??

Martin?s right to recommend this route: it really is a good ferrata. I climbed it on a recent trip to the area, but haven?t had chance to produce a proper route description yet. However, Martin?s assessment of the grade was spot on at 3B. The route?s certainly worth a day of your holiday, although don?t start out from Passo Falzarego, but park about a kilometre down the road towards Cortina, at Bar Strobel instead (there?s also a bus stop here). The route?s about 30 minutes walk away, on the south-west corner of Col dei Bos, which is shown on the Tabacco map. Our publisher, Cicerone, have a section of their website devoted to updates, which I hope will include this route very shortly.
Graham

Wow - this is a great site, tons of info, hence why I am now asking questions to those who know - hopefully someone will be able to find the time to answer - PLEASE:)
OK so my lady and I are planing a trip - we have about 4 days to do some serious Via Ferrata climbing in mind. This is what we had in mind, start off from Passo Falzarego, through the Lagazuoi Tunnels, then up VF Tomaselli (stay at a rif that night), then make our way over/down so that we can do Astaldi, Punta Anna, then Gianni Aglio. So a few questions - doable in 3-4 days? We would really like to be able to do the whole route via hiking routes - are they conected at all through the mountains? Or is it easier to climb, spend the night, then come down, make our way via bus (we will not have a car unfortunately - limited budget) to the next starting point? Are there any Rif that anyone along this route would recomend above the others? Does Col dei Bois connect to Lagazuoi Tunnels? Any other suggestions, commets (all are welcome) - we will be traveling around the 21-27 Sept (I know late - but only time we could get...)
Thanks in advanced.
Jeff

The main point is that, yes, your planned itinerary is doable in 3-4 days, and you can link all the routes you mention on well established hiking routes. BUT, there are a few problems you should think about!
Firstly, it?s anyone?s guess what condition the mountains will be in that late in the year. You?re hoping to spend much of your time around the 3000m level, and there?s a chance you?ll be snowed off.
Secondly, many of the Dolomite rifugi close on 21st September this year, although Rif. Dibona and Rif. Lagazuoi will still be open whilst you?re there. These are both very good bases, and convenient for the itinerary you have in mind.
Thirdly, the Dolomiti bus service changes to its winter schedule on 14th September, which means the service, especially to Passo Falzarego, is greatly reduced. The winter timetable isn?t available yet, but it?s something you should check out later. Incidentally, the Lagazuoi cable car will still be open, and you?d probably find it useful to use that to save you a bit of time.
Those are the basics, but post another message if you want to pursue the idea.
Graham

Graham,
Thanks so much for replying. We knew that we would be taking a chance with the snow, this itenerary is our main plan, however Mother Nature always makes the final decision, and we always have a plan b and usually c just for that reason and many others.
Thanks for the two Rif suggestions - will for sure be checking them out - we really hope to enjoy the mountains for aslong as possible. Any suggestions for the best way to contact both of them?
I've got your guide book already - great thanks for that!! - so have been on the web site, and will hope that we can find the schedule soon for transport to the base of Lagazuoi - and go from there.
Incidently, if these routes do get snowed out - do you have any suggestions for alternates? We are both adrenaline junkies in great shape and always up for a challenge, but we do have our heads about us too.
In the end - we do hope to follow the original plan, and prep for it. If it doesn't happen, so be it we will have a plan b, and most likely a c aswell. But we would like to try it, and go as preped as possible, so any advice, knowledge anyone can share is never a waste.
Thanks for all of your help in advanced. And to anyone else who would have anything to offer.
Jeff

Hello again Jeff
As for contacting the rifugi, I suggest that you can safely leave that till you?re here in Italy since you?re travelling so late in the season. However, here are the contact details:
Rif. Dibona: Tel. 0436 860294
Rif. Lagazuoi: Tel. 0436 867303. E-mail. rifugio.lagazuoi@dolomiti.org
Rif. Pomedes: Tel. 0436 862061. E-mail. rifugio.pomedes@dolomiti.org
(I didn?t mention this one before, but I think it might still be open when you travel).
As far as Plan B is concerned, when the routes up in the Tofana/Fanes area aren?t in condition, most people head for the two routes in the Fanes valley, north of Cortina (CORT 2 & CORT 3 in the guidebook). I guess that Plan C would involve abandoning the idea of climbing VFs, and just enjoying the amazing walking in this area. Plan D, if you really want to contemplate it, would be to go to the Lake Garda area!
Graham

Sorry Jeff: ignore the British flag symbol in my last message - the phone numbers are, of course, Italian (International Code 0039). It's just Skype playing tricks through my computer!
Graham

Graham,
Thanks for all the info - and advice, it is much appriciated. Will post after the trip and let you know how we made out. Crossing my fingers for little to no snow...
If anything else comes to mind - feel free to post again, I'm sure something will come to me aswell.
Jeff

Hi there,

I am doing the AV1 (North to South) in September. I am thinking of staying at Rifugio Bianchet and then bypassing the Schiara VFs and taking the easterly route into Belluno. It looks like I will have to get back up to the saddle and come around the east face of the Schiara (527/528). Could this route into Belluno be done in a day? I would prefer to avoid the east Variant VII route of the AV1. Truth be told, I would really prefer to come into Belluno under my own steam. Would Bianchet not be the best place to start this day?

Hello to Graham (if you read this board),

A clarification from my previous message... I meant to say the I wanted to avoid the west Variant VII of the AV1. I would like to go from Rif. Bianchet to Sentiero 527/528 (avoiding the VFs-I will have no gear) to the east around the face of the Schiara and then south into Belluno. Would this be a doable day (even if around 10 hours)?

Thanks,

John

Been asking around and posting here for information about this new Via Ferrata in Asia. Didn't get any reply.. anyway, I went off to search for info. Managed to locate this Via Ferrata on Mount Kinabalu (4095.2m Above Sea Level). Apparantly this Via Ferrata end at 3800m a.s.l. My friend's buddy had tried it in July 08. He mentioned that it was really fantastic and challenging. The view is also spectatular.. I am planning to go early next year 2009. Anyone interested can visit there website: www.mountaintorq.com

cheers
Jason

Hi John
From Rif. Bianchet, round the Schiara, and on to Belluno in a day? Personally, I wouldn?t dream of trying it! After doing the length of AV1, doubtless carrying a heavy rucksack, you?d be facing a total height gain of about 1750m, and a total descent (to Bolzano, just north of Belluno, where you can get the local bus) of about 2500m. Bear in mind also that some of the paths you?ll be using are relatively little used, badly waymarked, and not easy to follow. Just for good measure, the Schiara experience some of the most changeable weather conditions in the Dolomites, so you might well finish up walking in torrential rain!
I guess you?ve got 4 options:
Firstly, swallow hard and do the VF, even without gear. It?s not desperately hard, but you?d need to be completely confident of your ability, and not be fazed by the exposure.
Secondly, take the official variant to the west, and get the bus into Belluno.
Thirdly, take the variant to the east, and plan for an extra night: Rif 7th Alpini is the only practical choice.
Finally, rejig the last few days of your trip, miss out Rif. Bianchet, and make Rif. 7th Alpini your last night on the route.
I?d be interested to hear how you decide to resolve this dilemma!
Graham

Thanks Graham,

I appreciate your thoughts! My friend and I are going to be travelling fairly light (18-20 lb packs) but that is a lot of descending into Belluno (2500m). I am fairly confident in my abilities on the VF, but I just don't want to get in over my head without protection. Of the 5 VF routes off of Schiara, which would you say might be the easiest and least exposed? I just don't want to get stuck in a crux of a downclimb that I can't pull off. Berti? Sperti? Marmol? I agree that it would be preferable to do the more direct VF route into Belluno, but I am prepared to go longer for a less exposed non-VF route and should be able to support that decision physically (I am a pretty fit trail runner/cyclist).

Hello again John
Of the three VF descent options, Marmol, Zacchi and Sperti (Berti is the ascent route for M. Schiara), it?s no accident that the former has been designated as the line for the Alta Via. All three involve roughly the same technical difficulties (which aren?t great), but Marmol is marginally less serious than the others, and is the more direct route which, given your itinerary, is quite an important consideration. The issues you have to be aware of are the exposure on the extended traverse roughly half way through the descent, and the potential for stone fall on some sections, particularly after wet weather. You sound quite confident yourself, but will your partner feel similarly?
Clearly, I?m not in a position to advise which of the four options I spelled out earlier is right for you. However, whatever your decision, like all mountain activities, you have to recognise when circumstances dictate that you should fall back on Plan B. So, before setting out from Rif. Bianchet, take careful note of the weather before committing yourselves.
I?d be really interested to hear how you get on in due course, so please post another message here when you return.
Graham

Hey all!

We're coming over to Italy in October (four of us) with a full itinerary but would LOVE to get a one day climb in. Is this possible? We won't be bringing ropes or anything as this is more of a touring trip. Can anyone advise? I would really appreciate any guidance!

Thanks!

Hi Tonia
If you want any advice, I think you?ll have to be a bit more specific! For example, where in Italy do you plan to visit, when exactly are you going to be here, what sort of climb are you thinking of, and what mountain experience do you have?
The main focus of this site is the Dolomite mountains of northern Italy and, more specifically, the via ferratas which are found there. Is this what you have in mind?
Do let us know what you?re thinking of.
Graham

Hey Graham!

Thanks so much for responding. Sorry to be so vague = new at this! We'll be in Venice on October 6th and were hoping to swing up to the Dolomites for a day of climbing via ferrata on the 7th. There's four of us. 3 of us have a little more than a handful of experience toproping and 1 of us is far more experienced (not me!). I didn't know if there was an outfit that we could just drive up, say "hey, we're here," and they could gear us up and point us in the direction to go! That would be our ideal situation. Am I dreaming?!

Thanks!
tonia

Hey Graham!

Thanks so much for responding. Sorry to be so vague = new at this! We'll be in Venice on October 6th and were hoping to swing up to the Dolomites for a day of climbing via ferrata on the 7th. There's four of us. 3 of us have a little more than a handful of experience toproping and 1 of us is far more experienced (not me!). I didn't know if there was an outfit that we could just drive up, say "hey, we're here," and they could gear us up and point us in the direction to go! That would be our ideal situation. Am I dreaming?!

Thanks!
tonia

Hello again Tonia
Are you dreaming? Well, you certainly have a few problems to think about!
I suppose the obvious issue is the weather so late in the year. When you get to the end of September, you have to regard any days when you can climb VFs as a bonus. It?s impossible to predict exactly when the snow will bring an end to the climbing season, but it?s sometimes about mid-September (I?ve known it as early as the beginning of September, but that?s unusual). Assuming climbing is still possible, you will probably be limited to routes at lower altitudes.
Now you have a couple of logistical issues to think about:
Firstly, you?ve got to consider how long it?s going to take to get to the mountains from Venice. Unless you?re going to hire a car, and make an early start, it?s just not realistic to plan a day?s climbing in the Dolomites. Have you really only got one day to spare?
Secondly, you?ll need gear. I wouldn?t expect you?ll be bringing your own with you, so you?ll need to find a shop to hire it from. That?s not normally too difficult, but it would be wise to make arrangements beforehand to avoid wasting time on the day. It also limits you to certain areas, because it?s only in the main mountain resorts that you?ll find a hire service.
Your idea of the one-stop shop might just be possible: try contacting the mountain guides office in Cortina, where you might be able to arrange for gear hire and, at the same time, someone to take you up a climb in the area. I think their official programme will have ended by then, but you might be able to sort something out. Their website is: http://www.guidecortina.com/
Graham

Hello. I've done just once via ferreta and became very enthusiastic about it.What kind of routes are sutable for me as a beginner? (I'm in a normal sportive form). I'm looking for scenec views and not very long (about 2 hours) routes.
1) ARE 2B AND 2C LEVELS not too difficult?
2) what does it mean when it's written "there is a bit of exposure" ?
3) Should I bye something except the belt and helmet?
4) Do I have to take course to do via ferreta?
5) What resources or guides should I read before start?

Hi, Veronika. I'll try and answer your questions:

>Hello. I've done just once via ferreta and became very enthusiastic >about it.What kind of routes are sutable for me as a beginner? (I'm in >a normal sportive form). I'm looking for scenec views and not very >long (about 2 hours) routes.
>1) ARE 2B AND 2C LEVELS not too difficult?

It all depends on your comfort level, but if you are not afraid of large drop-offs then I believe that you will be fine with 2B and 2C-grade ferrate.

>2) what does it mean when it's written "there is a bit of exposure" ?

It means that there are some locations where there are some steep drop-offs (meaning an area where the ground is very steep and you are right at the edge of or actually on this steep ground). For a statement like "there is a BIT of exposure", that implies that the amount / extent of this steep ground is relatively small.

>3) Should I bye something except the belt and helmet?

Well, you should definitely have a proper ferrata dynamic self-belay device, like the petzl zyper-y or something similar.

>4) Do I have to take course to do via ferreta?

No. If you use a ferrata belay device properly and climb safely, you should be ok. Only if you do not feel comfortable in familiarizing yourself with the proper usage of the self-belay device would it then be necessary to get guided help or instruction.

>5) What resources or guides should I read before start?

Well, I recommend the latest Cicerone guidebooks on the vie ferrate. Please see the link on the left-side of this page entitled 'Rating Systems'.

Hope this helps,
...Andrew

Hey Graham,

Thanks so much for your info. I got a contact through guidecortina and was able to email him directly and we'll see how things go. Thanks for putting things in perspective! I guess we're typical Americans wanting things STAT and cramming too much in!

Happy climbing!

tonia

Andrew,thank you very much for your detailed answer.
It helps a lot!!!
I've got one more question: Is yhe weather of middle September (16-22)
sutable for via ferreta climbing.I've heard there are a lot of rains in this period in nothern Italy while others say September is still proper time.May be it depends on daytime?
Thanks for your answers

Hi, Veronika

My own opinion is that September weather can be quite beautiful: nice cool weather, and the routes are not busy.

HOWEVER, it is also starting to be the time where you may get significant snow. I would say that the chances are still relatively low for snow, but keep in mind that it is more likely than in the summer months of July and August.

...Andrew

ok, thank you

Hi,

You?ve heard it all before but great site!

My husband Frank and I are keen bush-walkers and rock climbers in our fifties. Frank can comfortably lead around 16 (UK VS, French 5+) on natural pro and around 19/20 (UK E1, French 6b) on a sport climb. We live in Australia and are planning a trip to the UK next year with friends to do the coast to coast walk and then to Asturias in Spain for some shorter walks 
Frank is keen to try some Via Ferrata while we are in Europe but the choice is a bit overwhelming.
We?d prefer to stay in the one spot rather than move around a lot as we will be travelling from place to place with the coast to coast walk. We?ll be in the UK and Spain from around 10th August to 12th September so could fit in a few days or maybe even a week either before 10/8 or after 12/9. Afterwards might make more sense flight-wise, but then might not be the best weather-wise. Before might be crowded?
I read on the message board that Colletts do guided trips and that you can hire a guide in Cortina but I suspect Frank will want to do his own thing. We have our own harnesses, helmets, carabiners etc. but no crampons or ice axes etc. as we?re not into mountaineering.
Can you suggest a place to base ourselves that would give us access to a variety of Via Ferrata that would be within our capabilities? We could hire a car to get to the start of various Via Ferrata but would prefer not to have to travel too far. Alternatively if there is one Via Ferrata in our range that is an absolute must do?.

Any advice most welcome,
Thanks
Sylvia

Hi Sylvia
Your query raises lots of issues, but I think these are the main ones.
Firstly, with your experience, you absolutely don?t need to be thinking about hiring guides, or joining guided parties. Large groups make their own traffic jams, and you can do without that!
Secondly, Cortina is as good a base as you could find for a first time trip to the Dolomites. Easily accessible, good gear shops, good public transport, lots of cable cars into the mountains, and some great routes.
Thirdly, I?d always pick September over August (and I think Andrew, our host, favours September, also). The weather tends to be more settled, and the crowds have reduced. The down-side is that there?s a risk of snow at higher altitudes, and the bus services (which are focussed on Cortina) revert to their winter timetable on the middle weekend of September. The cable cars, though, run into October.
You?ve got lots of time to plan your trip, so post another message when you feel you need more detailed advice about routes, places to stay etc etc..
Graham

One minor thing that wasn't clear to me from your post: although it sounds like you have a good assortment of climbing gear, I'm not sure if you have a self-dynamic belay device of the sort that is required for via ferrata climbs. A fall on a ferrata with no dynamic component to your protection can easily exceed a factor-2 climbing fall.

However, If you've already got that bit of kit, then disregard the above!

Dear Graham and Andrew,

thanks for your prompt responses. We have lots of belay devices but not the type recommended so would either buy a Petzl zyper-y or similar or if we can't be bothered carrying our gear all around the UK and Spain I believe we can hire for around AU$15 a day.

I'm assuming a hire car would be the go and is Venice the best/closest airport to Cortina?

Thanks again,
Sylvia

Hi Andrew,

We've just come back from Alleghe but because we were only there for a few days I didn't get a chance to do anything on Civetta (my friends already had their wish list compiled!). Next year I'd like to do the VF Alleghesi with an overnight stop in the rifugio. Did you book it in advance or just turn up on spec? If you did book it, do you have the contact details? Many thanks.

PS It's good to see that your site remains as popular as ever. It's a great resource for getting good quality information. Of course it also helps to have a regular contributor like Graham with his "insider" information giving regular updates. And on that subject, Graham, is there any possibility that the 5C on Marmolada might be re-cabled? We heard, second-hand, that a couple of lads had gone on to it but then retreated because it seemed so precarious.

Cheers, Robbie

Hi, Sylvia.

It is true that Venice is the closest major airport, and is only a 2 hour or so drive from the airport. Milan would also be a consideration (possibly cheaper flights and/or car hire rates)...

...Andrew

Hi Robbie
It doesn?t look likely that this route will be reopened in the foreseeable future. The problem is the lack of resources for the recabling job which is needed and, until some grant aid is secured, I guess it will remain officially closed. Needless to say, it?s hardly practical to prevent people going onto the route, and I understand that it is being climbed occasionally. However, it has to be treated as a rock climb rather than a via ferrata in its present condition. Add to that the amount of loose rock on the slab, and you can see why the local guides aren?t prepared to take clients on it at the moment.
You were also asking whether it?s necessary to book ahead for stays in rifugios. I recall that, last year, Andrew booked ahead at Rif. Torrani, but it really depends on the time of year. If you want to be sure of a bed in the peak periods, then it?s certainly advisable to book beforehand. Whilst it?s most unlikely that you?d be turned away from a remotely situated rifugio like Torrani, you might well finish up on the floor in the corridor if you haven?t booked! However, most people tackling the Alleghesi route seem to prefer a stay in Rif. Coldai to get an early start, enabling them to get back down to the valley on the cable car before it closes for the night. Consequently, I?d certainly advise booking ahead for Rif. Coldai, because it?s so popular. The phone numbers, by the way, are:
Rif. Coldai: 0437-789160
Rif. Torrani: 0437-789150.
Graham

Hi Graham,

Thanks for your prompt response. It's back to that time of year when I spend ages looking at Andrew's website, reading the forum and thumbing through your guidebooks planning next year's routes.

As an aside, how do decisions get made about re-cabling routes and who, or which organisation takes the lead in planning it?

I was on VF Vallon 2 or 3 years ago, just at the bridge (when it wasn't there!), when the helicopter flew in and dropped the material for the new bridge - just in time for us to do it the following year. And this year it looked like Finanzieri had been recently re-cabled and, if I'm not mistaken, the first pitch of Via delle Trincee too.

Hello again Robbie
Your question about route maintenance isn?t easy to answer. The majority of routes are overseen by CAI, usually the local section. Like most things here in Italy, the organisation of CAI is complex! Amongst the many committees and sub-groups, there?s often a nominated individual who is responsible for checking a particular route on a regular basis. I?m a member of the Agordina section, and one of my neighbours looks after VF Costantini (the biggest and hardest route in the Dolomites). Inevitably, the reliability of the checking regime varies, and some of the more remote, or less well used, routes are sometimes rather neglected.
Whilst many routes are of World War 1 origin, some are much more recent. Consequently, these arrangements are often different in the case of ?recreational routes? constructed more recently by a section of CAI other than the local one. In those circumstances, that section will usually take responsibility for checking and maintaining the route.
But there are other bodies who?ve built ferratas. Take, for example, two of the most recent routes in the Dolomites. VF Sandro Pertini, in Selva, was financed by the local tourist organisation, and I don?t yet know what arrangements they?ve made, if any, for maintenance. VF Col dei Bos, at Falzarego, was built by the military for training purposes, and I expect they?ll continue to look after it themselves.
Minor repair work can be financed by CAI, but more major repairs, like VF Eterna on Marmolada, often have to wait until someone stumps up the cash to do it!
Graham

To all,

Just back from 5 days of Via based out of Cortina - and it was amazing! We were lucky enough to get the Tomaselli in on the 22nd of sept - but it snowed as we were up there, but we did get one of the hikes we wanted in. We then actually did all 3 of Cort Via's and they were great aswell. In the end we hired a car, and actually picked up several people on various days who were trying to take the local bus or taxi that late in the year. So I will go with Graham's advice to me and he has restated it a few times - hire a car - prices are pretty good. My lady and I stayed in the Olympic campgrounds just north of the city, and everything worked out great. Already planning and reading about where to go next for sure. Just a final note of thanks to all the advice and resources available here, it really made the trip all that more amazing.

Jeff

Hi Andrew and Graham,

You're probably bored witless looking at peoples' holiday snaps however if you find yourself with few minutes spare I've uploaded some shots of various trips over the last few years inspired by this site and Graham and John's book.

You can find it at
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk./robbiemain35

Hi!

Im planning a trip to the Alta Via 2 in mid-May next year and I have to clarify a few things. I will be greatful for all responses!

1 My first concern is, of course, amounts of snow. Has anyone had any experience with the AV2 in this time of year? Any advice?

2 If snow is a problem, would crampons and an ice axe be adequate tools for crossing these parts of the Dolomites? I have a lot of experience with snow, but not ice climbing.

3 Are there any lodges open in this time of the year for meals? Where can I find info regarding this?

4 I expect harnessess, ice axes etc. can be bought in Bressanone?

5 If the conclusion is that the route is highly risky due to snow, can anyone recommend another route, app. the same length(185 km)? Anywhere in the Alps, if that's what it takes:)

In advance, thank you!!

Vegard, Norway

Hi, Andrew and Graham,
I didn't wrote on this message board since many months and I'm glad to do it now telling you my september Dolomite travel.
I had only 5 days on that place.
As you said Andrew, september can be a good month for doing ferratas . My first day in Cortina( september the eight) was under a very big rain , but after it, sun was present every day.
We make first Olivieri ferrata on Punta Anna, then Zandonella ferrata on the very beautiful Popera mountain to the Croda Rossa di Sesto.
The third day was a simple visit to Vandelli lake in Sorapiss mountain: splendid blue color lake. Last day was a walking to Piz Boe ( Boe pike) on Sella mountain.
I would like to make Trincee ferrata but telepherique was closed for this end summer season. The next other one to Piz da Lech del Boe ferrata was also.It's something to have in memory when anybody wants to go in september.
I'm glad to see on your own site Andrew, some via ferrata pictures I made last years ago like Canalone ferrata. About this small ferrata arounds, I nearly lost myself when I decide to return by an other way: I climbed to forcella d'Oltro on Pale San Martino High Road 1, many hours to join my camping base Castelpietro.
I see looking your own ferrata list, Andrew ,that you're quite a Dolomit specialist , congratulations !
Sorry I'm talkative !
bye bye.

Hello, again!

Thanks for the updates -- very appreciated! Always nice to see more useful information about the Dolomites, so again - thank you very much!

...Andrew

Hello again Andrew & Aruges
Good to hear you enjoyed your recent trip to the Dolomites, Aruges. You?re right to point out that many of the cablecars close in September, but that doesn?t necessarily mean that these 2 vie ferrate in particular can?t be climbed. In fact, since both are very popular routes, it?s often best to do them when the lifts aren?t running, since you can be sure of a more peaceful day.
My very best day on delle Trincee was in late September a few years ago, when we walked to the start of the route from Ristorante Lezuo, which is on the way up towards Passo Pordoi, using footpath 680. It took a couple of hours longer, but we had the route to ourselves ? a very rare experience! I recall that, when Andrew did the route, he walked up from Passo di Fedaia, which is a shorter approach, and more suitable if you?re staying further south.
The Piz da Lech route is easily accessible from Albergo Boe, just north of Passo Campolongo. The walk to the start of the route takes less than 2 hours.
Best wishes everyone, Graham

Hello Graham,
You're right about the second approach to ferrata delle Trincee by the way upon Fedaia lake, and also right about walking up peacefully when cablecars are stopped.
I saw the way from Albergo Boe to ferrata Piz da Lech del Boe.
I was tired after Zandonella ( about 1200 m uneven, I don't know in feet , ten hours walking :approach -ferrata and return) ; so I decided to take the big cablecar to the upstation Sella.
Thanks for your answer and advices.
Bye.

Dear Andrew,

Thanks for the great site - have enjoyed immensely your descriptions and pictures of the VF's. Have been to the Dolomites twice for a total of 2 weeks of VFing concentrating on the area around Arraba and Cortina. I am now planning to go to the Brenta Alps next September (09) with a group of friends to do a circuit of the Brenta. We plan to spend a night in Madonna then go from hut to hut ( Tuckett, Alimonta, Agostini, Brentei) via the VF routes Sent A Benini, Sent delle Bocch Alte, Sent delle Centrale, Sent Brentari, Sent Castiglioni, Sent dell Ideale and Sent SOSAT and then back to back to Madonna.

I was wondering if you had any information about how I can book the hut accommodation. There will be about 7 in the party so I don't want to leave it to chance that we get a place in the relevant huts. Any information (as well as on the proposed route) gratefully accepted.


Regards

David Galsworthy

Hello,
for Andrew, sorry to answer the first.

For booking hut accomodation it may be important to know what are the closing dates in september for Brenta refuges.
Many refuges are closed after september the 15th or the 20th.
On Internet all dolomites refuges give their own opening dates.
Second point, no one refuge accept accomodation several months before, except if somebody send money; but be careful with that mean!
It's advisable to inform the refuge 's caretaker several times , for example, 2 months then 1 month,then 2 weeks before to be credible and having luck for a accomodation.
Goog luck!

Aruges - thanks for the information. Have now managed to get an email address and telephone number for the Tuckett hut and an email, telephone number and website ( with on-line booking) for the Alimonta Hut. Have yet to track down the information on the other 2 huts - the Agostini and the Brentei. The route taking the VF's right round the Brenta looks amazing and I am very excited about the prospect of doing it. We will be going in the first two weeks of September so hut closure will not be a problem. The weather this year in September was very cold in the Brenta so I hope we it will be a bit warmer next year.

Kind regards

David

Hello!

My family and I have been looking for information about this for a long time! I came across your images today and want to say, "Thank you!" It is wonderful to see them and learn more about my ancestors!

Christine

Hi,

Help and advice required. I am thinking of a trip to the Dolomites during the last week of May this year with the purpose of doing some via ferrata. I have not been to this area before (my via ferrata experience is France/Austria/Switzerland. I have been told that this time period is probably too early in the season with almost certainly snow about at the higher altitudes and probably wet or cold lower down. Does anyone have experience of the area at this time. Any information would be welcome.

Thanks

Howard

Hi, Howard.

Yeah, I'd agree with your assessment. May is very likely going to be too snowy and icy (for basic via-ferrata-ing, I mean). I suspect that much of the cabling will be covered or inaccessible.

Now, if you wanted to do winter mountaineering with an occasional fixed placement to clip into, then perhaps.... but for straight via ferrata-ing, this is likely too early.

Now, maybe some of the lowest altitude / most southern dolomite ferrate might be doable -- for example, the area around Lake Garda. I suspect that some of these routes might be open by then. Perhaps Graham will comment on his knowledge in this matter.

...Andrew

Great site! This is what we needed when we went to the Dolomites back in 2004, armed with just the Cicerone guide. In our experience (climbing and caving) it's best to start out on a 3b and see how you go from there - if you're an accomplished climber you shouldn't have any difficulty with the 5c's in the Cicerone guide, although the sense of exposure on some of the routes is amazing!

Hi Howard
I think Andrew?s advice about climbing VFs in May was just right. It?s always impossible to predict with certainty when winter conditions will give way to reasonable climbing weather, but if I was planning a trip to the Dolomites several weeks, or even months, in advance, then I?d certainly be looking at June at the earliest. I?m lucky in living here, so I don?t need to commit myself in advance, and can take advantage of an unusually early start to the season. In 2006 for example, I did manage to get some good ferrata days in as early as mid-May (the earliest routes to become climbable are often those in the Fiames area, north of Cortina ? they?re routes CORT 2, 3 & 4 in the Cicerone guidebook).
Normally, I head for the Lake Garda area in spring: in fact the semi-tropical climate means you can climb there pretty well all year round, but I?d certainly avoid the main summer months because it?s just too hot and crowded then. And don?t think you?ll find the climbing tame by comparison with the Dolomites: there are some wonderful routes, right up to grade 5C.
Graham

Hi Graham and Andrew,
back again. I know it is still some seven months away but as we enter a period of total fire ban days and 40 degree celsius heat my mind turns to the holidays and cooler places far away from bush fires.
If you could tell me which routes you'd recommend for Frank and I it would give me something to daydream about while avoiding the heat :-) Also we think we might prefer to stay somewhere a little quiter than Cortina as the place we live in only has 300 residents off season. It has around 5,000 in peak periods but that's another story.
I think I posted last around September las year with details of our climbing experience. Have since bought some new carabiners that you can open and close with one had - still trying to get used to them - but will wait and purchase other via ferrata specific gear once we get there.
Thanks
Sylvia

Hello again Sylvia
Interesting to read about your problems with the heat: we?re enjoying temperatures of -12 or so at the moment! Still, it?s proving to be a great winter sports season.
Anyway, back to your September trip. I recall that your initial preference was not to hire a car. I guess you?ll have to weigh up which you want to avoid most ? hiring a car, or staying in Cortina! If relying on public transport is your main priority, then I still believe that Cortina is much the best base for you. If you feel more strongly about staying somewhere more relaxed, then hiring a car becomes much more sensible. You could avoid this impasse by joining up with an organisation like Colletts, and making use of their infrastructure, but I also recall that Frank was keen to remain independent. So, those are the trade-offs you have to consider.
However, since you seem to be leaning quite strongly against Cortina, my advice would be to look at Arabba or Corvara as suitable bases. There are several top quality routes within easy access of either village, and you can hire the necessary gear in both, in the event that you prefer not to lug the stuff around Europe with you.
You asked for a check list of routes to tackle: here are my suggestions (I?ll use the reference numbers in the Cicerone guidebook).
CORV 2: only a half day, but a perfect introduction to accustom yourself with the gear.
CORV 4: probably the most popular VF in the Dolomites, and deservedly so.
CORV 5: some find it tricky for its grade, but I love it!
ARAB 2: a must-do route.
ARAB 1: end on a high: this is a 5C, but not one of the hardest in this category.
That?ll give you something to dream about during the heatwave!
Graham

Hello again Sylvia
Interesting to read about your problems with the heat: we?re enjoying temperatures of -12 or so at the moment! Still, it?s proving to be a great winter sports season.
Anyway, back to your September trip. I recall that your initial preference was not to hire a car. I guess you?ll have to weigh up which you want to avoid most ? hiring a car, or staying in Cortina! If relying on public transport is your main priority, then I still believe that Cortina is much the best base for you. If you feel more strongly about staying somewhere more relaxed, then hiring a car becomes much more sensible. You could avoid this impasse by joining up with an organisation like Colletts, and making use of their infrastructure, but I also recall that Frank was keen to remain independent. So, those are the trade-offs you have to consider.
However, since you seem to be leaning quite strongly against Cortina, my advice would be to look at Arabba or Corvara as suitable bases. There are several top quality routes within easy access of either village, and you can hire the necessary gear in both, in the event that you prefer not to lug the stuff around Europe with you.
You asked for a check list of routes to tackle: here are my suggestions (I?ll use the reference numbers in the Cicerone guidebook).
CORV 2: only a half day, but a perfect introduction to accustom yourself with the gear.
CORV 4: probably the most popular VF in the Dolomites, and deservedly so.
CORV 5: some find it tricky for its grade, but I love it!
ARAB 2: a must-do route.
ARAB 1: end on a high: this is a 5C, but not one of the hardest in this category.
That?ll give you something to dream about during the heatwave!
Graham

Excellent thanks Graham. Have decided to hire a car and next time Frank is in Melbourne I will send him in search of the Cicerone guide book, so I can while away some time in the hotter weather :-)

Can you recommend guide options that could lead a group of four in the Italian Via Ferrata? This would be our first excursion in the Via Ferrata. Also, is there a particular time of the year you would recommend to benefit most from a first excursion? Thanks, Jeff

Hello again Graham,
I am assuming it's Volume 1 of the Cicerone guide that we need?
Also, would you recommend anywhere in particular to stay in either Arabba or Corvara?
Thanks

Hi, Jeff. Thanks for your question. I'll give the quick answers to your questions first:

1) can you hire guides? yes Do I have recommendations? I don't - but perhaps others do.

2) best time of year to do ferrate? July and August

I invite you to peruse the other messages in this forum for more details, as these two questions have been asked and answered several times before.

Hello again Sylvia
If you?ve settled on the Arabba/Corvara area then, yes, it?s Volume 1 that you need. However, do make sure that you get hold of the most recent edition, which was published in 2006. This is the 3rd edition of the guidebook, and it contains several new routes, and amendments to a lot more. More importantly, perhaps, the section on the correct use of equipment was completely rewritten for this edition, incorporating the latest advice from UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d?Alpinisme).
Actually, there?s a completely new edition in preparation currently, but it?s unlikely to be in the shops until well into the summer. This will contain even more new routes but, in the meantime, you can see some information about them on the Cicerone website. Check out the updates section for the guidebook at
http://www.cicerone.co.uk/product/detail.cfm/book/362/title/via-ferratas-of-the-italian-dolomites--vol-1
As for somewhere to stay, both villages have quite a lot of options, with Corvara having the widest choice. There?s everything from a campsite to 5* hotels, so how deep is your wallet? Unfortunately, I can?t recommend anywhere in particular, since we live just down the road, so have no need of hotels!
Graham

Hi Graham,
thanks again for all your advice. We're really looking forward to the trip. Take care, Sylvia

Hi Andrew,

just dawned on me as I was starting to prepare dinner that although Graham can't recommend accommodation in Arabba or Corvara because he lives locally, that given the number of trips you have made to the area you might be able to recommend somewhere. We don't mind if it's self-catering or chalet style but we're not looking for anything at the 4 or 5 star end of the market. I think the coffers will be a bit depleted by the time we get to Italy :-)

Thanks
Sylvia

Hi Sylvia
I?ll give you links to a couple of small, reasonably priced hotels, the first in Arabba, the other in Corvara. Whilst I haven?t stayed in either, I can vouch for the quality of the pastries! Both are well located in relation to facilities in the villages, and both are really well run. If I had to make a choice, I?d opt for the one in Corvara.
http://www.garnierica.it/home1ing.html
http://www.garniraetia.it/Seiten/hauptframe_e.htm
If you prefer to go self-catering, then all I can suggest is that you do a web search, since I can?t recommend anywhere in particular.
Graham

Hi Sylvia.

Strangely enough, I haven't stayed in that many hotels in the dolomites. Most of the time I've either camped at local campgrounds, or I've been at a rifugio in the mountains. I have stayed at a quaint little family-run hotel in Cortina, but that's not the location you are looking at.

...Andrew

Thanks anyway Andrew. Bringing camping gear from Oz along with hiking and climbing gear just isn't practical so we'll probably go with one of Graham's recommendations.
Very much looking forward to doing the Via Ferrata Graham has suggested and some others off your web site.

Thanks
Sylvia

Hello Andrew or anyone else who can answer my questions. My fourth year on the bounce to the Dolomites and always in glorious weather. However this year I am planning to go in May, around the Cortina area. Anyone now if there is much snow up there or will

Hello Andrew or anyone else who can answer my questions. My fourth year on the bounce to the Dolomites and always in glorious weather. However this year I am planning to go in May, around the Cortina area. Anyone now if there is much snow up there or will I get away with good boots and a little luck?

Hello to the optimist who?s asking about VFs in May!
Frankly, I think you can forget about doing any VFs this May. This winter is proving to be the most snowy over here in the Dolomites for years (there?s about 2 metres of consolidated snow above 2000) and, unless late winter/early Spring are extraordinarily warm, I can?t see any chance of the routes round Cortina being in condition till mid/late June. By the way, it?s snowing heavily right now!
I suggest that you either reschedule your trip, or consider going to Lake Garda. Sorry to keep banging on about that area, but I really can?t understand why more people don?t visit and try out some of the best VFs you?ll find anywhere.
Graham

This is a test message

 Thanks Graham, I have resheduled for Mid June and will take the risk of a little white stuff. It could well mean I have the place to myself which is no bad thing, crampons and axe it is then. Thanks for the tip on the Garda area but I went there in August. To be Frank it was a nice area but it just doesn't have the Alpine feel for me. I also tried the long trek to the Brenta's from Limone'. Was it worth it... Lots of traversing, hmmm,  but great scenery. Thanks for the guides they are a must for every trip.

Hi,

I would like to ask if second week of June is too early to try Cortina area's ferrata rotes? I will apreciate any comment about it.

Best regards,

e-mail: h@aydingun.com

Hi, Haldun

The second week of June will probably be ok for the lower-altitude routes in the Cortina area, like the Punta Fiammes (M Strobel) or Col Rosa (E Bovero) routes.   As for the passability of the higher altitude routes in the area, that will depend on the weather and the snowpack level this year.   Graham has informed me that this year there is a large snowpack, so it might be the case that these routes will still have some snow in mid-June. 

In any case, if I'm wrong, I'm sure Graham will correct me.

...Andrew

Hi Haldun

Since we last exchanged messenges, two or three weeks ago, we've had another metre of snow above 2000m! If you keep an eye on this website:

 http://www.arpa.veneto.it/bollettini/htm/dolomiti_neve_e_valanghe_en.asp

you'll see how much snow remains as the winter progresses. As you'll see, the snowpack is currently over 2.5m in places, and it's going to be a while before that much clears! However, I think I'll go along with Andrew in guessing that the couple of routes he mentioned will be in condition, but I wouldn't be particularly optimistic about higher level routes as early as your planned trip.

Why don't you post another message nearer the time, and I'll give you an update on conditions: who knows, you might be able to leave the ice axe and crampons at home after all.

Graham

PS Surprised you're not enthusiastic about the Lake Garda routes!

Hi,

Thanks for your answers and comments. Maybe we have to postpone our trip a bit towards the early July side. On the other hand your suggestion about lake Garda routes sounds very logical. There will be no snow there. But I was hoping to do PUNTA ANNA especially. It is your fault, you put so nice photos and such a good narration, it became a must :)

I will look at the web site for the snow conditions and will ask you before coming.

Many thanks

Haldun

 Hi Andrew, i'm planing to  visit via ferrata in Italy this year. Do you tink that first deys of  September are appropriate. I have litle expiriens climbing ferrata , moslty  short  vertical levels.
I have a lot of question , and i hope you will be kind to help me

Excuse my poor English.

Hi, Andrey

The first days of September are probably an excellent time to visit the ferrate.  The weather is usually still nice, most of the rifugi are still open and many of the crowds have gone away.

...Andrew

Hi Andrew, which are the most scenic ferratas. Those with suspended rope bridges, great views and good shots etc. I am a photographer first , climber second.

cheers Helen

and many of the crowds have gone away. HAPPY HAPPY

I fave so many qustions , sorry for bugging you. If you have time i will be glad to talk whit you.

Hi, Helen.

That's a tough question!   Pretty much every ferrata I have been on has been very scenic in some way.  But, I suppose I could take a stab at which (of the ones that I have done) I think are most scenic (please note that these are in no particular order):

• In the Brenta, the Bocchette Alte route,
• The Ferrata delle Trincee,
• Piz da Lech in the Sella Group,
• Pisciadu climbing path (also in the Sella Group),
• De Luca / Innerkofler route (good views of the Tre Cime),
• The Masare / Rotwand ferrate,
• The Punta Anna route and the Gianni Aglio route,
• Sentiero Astaldi (easy and short but scenic in a different colorful kind of way),
• Ivano Dibona (all those bridges and ruins are pretty neat).

I'm going to stop there, because I could basically go on and list most of the ferrate I've done!  But rest assured, the above are scenic!

Graham has done far more ferrata routes than I (in fact, all of them!), so perhaps he'll chime in with his scenic favourites.

...Andrew

Hi again, Andrey

I can try to answer some of your questions, sure.

...Andrew

Hi Andrew. My hiking and climbing  groop has 2 members me and my girlfriend, i feel shame , but she is beter climber then me. Do we need a guide for roots C tipe for example  "Bocchette Centrale" ?

About the gear, is there a rental gear or a have to take whit me mine, do i have to take whit me mine one ropes and hardw?re? Rental -And if you aware about the prises

Where to stay for 3, 4 night?  I prefer uncrouded villages but Theis will be mine first time ia Italy and I'm not familiar whit the prices in smal simple hotel. Can you recommend me a hotel or hut ... ?

If you tink that it will be more comfortable to you , here is my ICQ number 300-618899 and skype Futurama1982.

 thank for the patience

Hi, Andrey.   To answer your questions:

1) If you are reasonably skilled in knowing your position and following a map, then I do not think you will need a guide.   Make sure that you follow the proper ferrata climbing rules, though.

2) I have never myself rented gear, but I hear that many of the towns that are near major ferrata routes have rental gear.  I'm guessing that in the case of the Brenta, Madonna di Campiglio would be the best bet (but I have no specific recommendation).

3)  A reasonable hotel in nearby towns is probably going to cost somewhere betwen 60 and 100 Euro per night.   In rifugios, the cost will probably be around 30 Euro (including food).   In the Brenta, there is an excellent set of rifugi.  I personally have stayed at the Rifugio Brentei and the Rifiguio Tuckett, and both of those are quite nice.  Elsewhere in the dolomites are many other nice rifugi, including the Rifugio Rosetta in the Pale,  the Rifugio Coldai near the Civetta, and the rifugio Lorenzi in the Cristallo.

In Cortina, there is one nice little hotel that I have stayed in several times: the Hotel Meuble Myriam, run by a nice family, and with reasonable rates.

Anyway, these are my limited ideas - there are many places in the dolomites that I have not yet explored!

...Andrew

Thanks Andrew you are very kind. Are the route fully equiped , or a have to take extra gear like (60 m rope,  , carabines  nuts and friends ).

Excuse my english but i'm not  familiar whit this terms in english

 

Hi, Andrey

Your terms are correct.  Regarding routes, you can consider them to be fixed-climbing paths.  There is a wire cable on sections that are more exposed or technical.   Therefore you do not need to bring your own rope.  You also do not need to bring any protection (nuts, friends, etc).   What you do need is a proper ferrata-specific dynamic belay device, a climbing harness, and two self-locking large-diameter carabiners. 

(I suppose there may be some ferrata routes that are not always adequately protected, in which case you would have to switch to classic climbing with the full gear - but on the routes that I have done, this is not the case).

Hi Adrew, i saw that some of the routes are multiday , is it appropriately to spent the night ot open sky in sleeping bags (September), i'm talking about (Bocchette Centrale)

Hi, Andrey.

You know, that's a good question.  I don't actually know what the rules are regarding camping-at-large in the Brenta (or in any part of the dolomites, for that matter).  Perhaps someone else on this forum can answer... maybe Graham?   My guess is that it is not officially permitted....

...Andrew

 Hi Helen

I wouldn't disagree with any of Andrew's specific suggestions, or with his general comment that pretty well all VFs are scenically rather special. What I would add, though, is that I find those routes with a historic resonance (especially relating to the first world war) of particular interest, and I guess you would too as a photographer. There are lots of those, which you can easily pick up from the guidebooks, but they're mainly in the northern Dolomites.

Here's a few specific routes to add to Andrew's list:

• VF Laurenzi (northern Catinaccio)
• VF Sandro Pertini (near Selva di Gardena)
• The two VFs on Torre Toblino (Sesto Dolomites)
• The two (really easy) VFs on Cima Capi (overlooking Lake Garda)
• VF Zacchi (Schiara Dolomites)

Let us know when you do them, and share your photos on your website if you have one. 

Graham

 Hi Andrey

Apart from a few, often privately owned, areas of mountains, I'm not aware of any rules forbidding 'wild camping' in the Dolomites. However, I certainly wouldn't advise anyone to consider sleeping out at between 2 and 3 thousand metres in September! Anyway, it's just not necessary. There are so many refuges, bivouacs, baitas and other little huts where you can spend a night if you're caught out, or just want to make an early start in the morning. Don't forget, though, apart from refuges, the facilities you'd find are very limited, and you'll need to carry your bedding, food and probably water as well. Is it really worth it?

Graham

Hi Andrew, i asked this question because sometimes not everyting can by provident and if happens so , and we can't make our way back in light, sometimes it is better not to rush but spend one night on open. I have bad experience  rushin things out . I do not plan to make camp. Sleeping there is plan B if   things go rong and night falls. Thanks for the important and quick answers. I wish you only good things happens to you and more interesting and exciting trips.  

Hello Andrew-

I happened upon your site and I am so glad I did! I have decided to make a trip to the ferratas in July and I would like your opinion. I plan on being in the area for at least 7 days, Is there a region you would suggest so that I could experience several different routes with ease? Or is the area fairly well connected with trains, buses and other forms of transportion. I don't have my own vehicle.

Do have any absolute favorites! Perhaps ones with plenty of exposure.

Also, while I am an avid hiker, climbing is something I am new too. I am looking at buying some gear right now, but don't know where to start. Do I need a full rack? Would a harness and hemet suffice?

Thanks, Great Site!

-Matt

(please reply by email)

Me and a group of relative novices went and did the sosat and centralle route in the Brenta group last year and loved it and want to know another equally spectacular yet managable route in the the main dolomites group.  Any suggestions.

Well, let's see.  Moderate and spectacular in the central dolomites....  Perhaps the Ivano Dibona route?  Scenic, not too hard, and lots of WWI ruins and such, plus a big bridge.

I've only limited knowledge of the vast array of ferrate routes in the central dolomites -- perhaps Graham will have some suggestions, too.

Hi Phil, I have climbed in both areas and it really depends on where you are coming from? Brenta is a bit of a trek and the ferrata can be a bit tedious, lots of traversing. The Cortina area can be reached from Venice in under two hours and the range of Ferrate is fantastic. Accomodation can be cheap but the beer is costly.  Lake Garda has a bit to offer but not the exposure you would get in the High Dolomites. Happy climbing and  recommend you go to Monte Patterno (Misurina) 1st climb,  via the toll road if you are choosing Cortina.

Hi Toby

Here are a few more routes to add to Andrew’s suggestion of the Ivano Dibona route. I’ve also gone for a few quite easy routes, some little more than challenging walks, but all pretty spectacular.

VF Marino Bianchi (CORT 5 in the Cicerone guidebook). If you take Andrew’s advice and tackle the Ivano Dibona, you could also have a look at this route whilst you’re in the area.

VF Bepi Zac (FASSA 9). Like the Dibona, this is a really easy route, but in a really spectacular situation. It’s another old wartime route and, like the Dibona, can be climbed without gear if you’re confident of your ability (although I’d never go without a helmet).

VFs Lamon & Formenton (CORT 12).

VF de Luca/Innerkofler (MISUR 4). Again, gear hardly necessary, but fascinating situation and tons of wartime history.

Strada degli Alpini (SESTO 2). Yet another where I don’t bother with gear (apart from the helmet), but I enjoy it more every time I do it. The Salvezza Ledge, the highlight of the route, has to be one of the most spectacular pieces of wartime construction in the Dolomites.

VF Brigata Tridentina (CORV 4). This is the only moderately difficult route in my list of suggestions, but it’s a classic, and you can walk off the route at the half-way point if you’re finding it hard going, since the upper half is a bit tougher.

Best wishes, Graham

Hello,

My girlfriend and I are thinking about doing the via ferrata in the french alps in the mid-may time frame.  We have Chavy's excellent guide book to the area but are not sure about some things.  Here are our questions...

- Is mid may going to be too cold?

- Where should we get the gear?

- Are the sites open?

- Any good camping sites?

Sorry to ask so much but this trip is coming up quickly.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Rob 

 Hi, Rob

Unfortunately I don't know much of anything about the french via ferrate (this site is only about the ferrate in the Italian dolomites).  However, having said that, I would imagine that any high routes (2200m+ or so) are very likely to be in winter condition in May.  If there are low routes available, I'd angle for those.

tried some via ferratas in June 2007 on the back of a trekking trip and really enjoyed it so we are going back  to Pedraces in July, your site has really wetted my appetite and its is obvious that  this a real labour of love,"absolutely first class" keep up the excelent work, regards THE GEORDIE CHAUVINISTAS ps how much harder is Trincee compared to Tridentina

 The Trincee ferrata is easier than the Tridentina ferrata.  There is a short bit right at the very beginning (of the western end) that is perhaps a bit harder (and even that is questionable).  After that, the Trincee ferrata is much easier, in my opinion.

 Andrew wrote:

'The Trincee ferrata is easier than the Tridentina ferrata.  There is a short bit right at the very beginning (of the western end) that is perhaps a bit harder (and even that is questionable).  After that, the Trincee ferrata is much easier, in my opinion.'

I don’t need much temptation to start a debate about the thorny issue of route grading, and Andrew’s observation that VF Tridentina is harder than VF Trincee has given me an excuse! Anyway, one of the main values of forums like this is the opportunity for an exchange of views, so here goes.

 I have to disagree with Andrew’s assessment of the first passage of delle Trincee. It’s steeper than anything on Tridentina and therefore requires better climbing skills (or more muscle in the absence of it!). Also, being on volcanic rock, the holds are sparser and of a different character to the limestone which predominates in the Dolomites. Of course, the assessment of difficulty is a pretty subjective matter, but I suspect most people would side with me on this one!

That said, I do agree with Andrew that the rest of the Trincee route is easier than Tridentina. However, that raises a point that John and I felt strongly about when we were finalising the gradings we applied to routes. You can’t say ‘such and such a route is only a grade 3 - ah, but by the way, there’s a short grade 5 passage in the middle’. Our view is that you have to grade according to the hardest passage of a climb, not the majority of it, or even some notion of an average.

Anyway, that’s our view, so any other contributions to the debate?

Graham

Dear Andrew and Graham

I am starting to plan a trip to the Brenta in early September with a group of friends spending 5 days in the mountains linking up a series of VF's and staying in the huts. I know the weather can be bad in the Brenta but do it think it likely we will need to take crampons / ice axes as part of the gear. Any thoughts on the subject gratefully received !

Thanks for the site Andrew - have really enjoyed looking at the pictures of some of the VFs I have climbed in my previous visits to the Dolomites.

Regards - David

Hi, David

I think there's a good chance that early September will have good weather (no guarantee, of course).  And, the rifugios should still be open then (I think).  I'd say don't bother with the crampons and ice ax.  Any snow you get (if indeed you are unlucky enough to get a big early snowstorm) won't be deep enough for an ace anyway, and there won't be any underlying ice in such a situation, either.  

Anyway, those are my 0.02 cents' worth.

...Andrew

Aloha Andrew,

You have a brilliant website with high quality content....keep up the great work. My question is more of advice and recommendation from you. I am an experienced hiker (age 54) with sufficient stamina and endurance for hiking in general. However, I have no via ferrata experience, but want to experience the thrill of doing so this upcoming trip to the dolomites this September.  I will be in Solden, Austria with other family members doing the HF Holiday thing for 10 days and then on to Italy for my second time in the dolomites. Also, do I need a guided trek? Please, your top picks for how I described my circumstances.

Mahalo in advance,

Rick

Hi, Rick

Well, I think that if you stick to the moderately-graded routes, and get yourself some proper via ferrata gear (helmet, harness and dynamic self-belay device), and follow the simple guidelines outlined here, on other sites, and in guidebooks, you should be able to do this on your own.

There are many nice moderate routes in the eastern / north-eastern parts of the Dolomites (sesto dolomites area and in the cortina area).  I personally haven't done many in the sesto dolomites, but I know there are several moderate routes there.    I know that Graham has talked of some of these routes in this very forum, so please do browse around through the older posts.

...Andrew

Thanks much for the quick reply. How is it, you have so much time to visit Europe? Does your website generate revenue for your trips? Just curious.

Hi again...

I guess it must seem like I visit often, but really it isn't so.  At most I go once every two or three years.  

Unfortunately no, my website doesn't generate me any revenue.  As you can see, there is no advertising on it (I'm somewhat loathe to do so... but who knows, maybe someday).

...Andrew

Hi Andrew, Thanks for the great site.I really enjoyed your pictures.

Anyway I was hoping to spend a week in the dolomites in July (possibly based in Cortina) to do some ferratas. I did the AV1 last year (but the group i was with did not want to tackle any ferratas - boo). I know its hard to give a definite answer but I'd be grateful if you could recommend your favourite ferrata in the area. 

Alleghesi looks fantastic - i stayed in Rifugio Coldai last time so I know how to get there. Not sure if its suitable for a newbie though... Any suggestions would be great.

Also - do you have any experience of bivouacing (eg on Marmalada) - any tips for equipment etc?

Thanks

John (mctighe.john@gmail.com)

 Hi John

Since Andrew seems to be tied up at the moment, perhaps I could offer my own comments on your planned trip this summer.

I certainly think that you can’t go wrong in choosing Cortina as your base – particularly if you’re relying on public transport to get to the Dolomites, and to get around once you’re here. I guess the only downside is the cost of accommodation, which is probably higher than anywhere else in the area. There’s a really good choice of ferratas easily accessible from the town, and if I had to say which would be my personal favourite, I’d say without hesitation that it’s VF Tomaselli (FALZ 1 in the Cicerone guidebook). You claim to be a newbie though, so I’d suggest you work your way up to this particular route, since it’s one of the hardest in the Dolomites! My advice would be to tackle the two routes in the valley north of Cortina to start with (CORT 2 & 3), both good routes, but not too demanding. As for the Alleghesi route: well, I wouldn’t say it was an obvious route for somebody with limited experience and, besides, Cortina wouldn’t be a good jumping off point to do it from. So, leave that for next year perhaps.

You’re the second person to ask recently about bivouacking in the mountains here. I just don’t see the point frankly, when there’s such a good network of rifugios and bivouac huts.

Anyway, whatever you finally decide, enjoy your trip!

Graham

Hi All,

I’m very glad I found this site, it’s been an extraordinary source of
information in preparation for my first trip to Dolomites.
Thank you for useful hints and tips and all beautiful pictures.

I’m heading to east part of the region next week and I guess I’m pretty
well equipped and ready to ‘rock’:). My only worry is that it is quite
early in the year and perhaps there are some aspects of my trip which I
haven’t thought of yet. It will be a solo trip and I haven’t decided yet
of where to stay. I planned to bring my camp equipment. But read couple
of previous posts and it looks that, perhaps Cortina as a base camp would
be a better option. Well, bringing my tent would make me fairly self
sufficient in this regards, but again it’s extra few pounds in my
rucksack (perhaps unnecessary). I’m also wondering if the camp
sites open in June?

Anyone knows? I appreciate any details so I could get my self ready
as best as possible.

Thanks again for the site. It made the preparation even more exciting.

Regards
Magdalena

Ooops, if my previous post is illegible, please let me know and I'll retype it.

Regards Magdalena

No problem, Magdalena - I'll clean it up for you.

...Andrew

Hi I am off for my yearly pilgrimage to the Dolomites and as I am going early this year and due to record snow falls am I advised to take crampons? Has anybody been in the area recently? I still have 3 weeks but some of the Tofana routes look a bit snowy from the web cam shots.

 Hi Magdalena

Yes, you’re right. It is a bit early in the year for a VF holiday. Especially so this year when we’ve had the snowiest winter for 20 years. Fortunately, we’ve had some unusually hot weather since mid-May, so the snow is melting fast. However, you’ll have to take stock of what’s possible when you arrive, since I doubt if the higher routes will be realistic for another couple of weeks or more.

You’re also right in guessing that Cortina will be a good base, and there are a couple of routes just up the valley from there which I think will certainly be climbable now since they’re at a relatively low altitude (see CORT 2& 3 in the Cicerone guidebook). You also asked about campsites, and there’s a good one in the valley very close to these two routes. Have a look at the link below:

http://www.campingolympiacortina.it/olympia/olympia.htm

You’ll also see that it’s open all year round, to answer your other question.

Enjoy your trip!

Graham

 Hi Topper

I’ve just posted a reply to Magdalena, which touches on the same subject. You’re right about the snow, but you’ll see that I mention the unusually hot weather we’re having. So, the snow is melting rapidly, but I still don’t think that any of the higher altitude routes, or routes with a northern aspect, will be climbable yet. Still, you’ve apparently got 3 weeks, and that will probably make a big difference. Why don’t you post another query before you start to think about packing ice-axe and crampons, and I’ll give you an update. In the meantime, you can check out the site below for information about snow conditions and the depth of the snowpack.

http://www.arpa.veneto.it/bollettini/htm/dolomiti_neve_e_valanghe_en.asp

Graham

Hi Graham,

So it was the snowiest winter for 20 years? How lucky I am! Well, I've no choice but to re-arrange slightly my initial plans and throw few extra pairs of warm socks into my rucksack :). I've already checked out the campsite you recommended and I guess this is where I head first.

Thank you very much for reply and all your advices. You helped a lot.

Take care

Magdalena 

A while since I've been on this site. As good as ever though.

Having been up both these routes a couple of times I would agree with Graham's gradings. Second time up both was with a larger group of mixed ability and the Trincee start unfortunately got the better of a few of our number. Imagine if this section had been much further into the route?! From my recollection, also bear in mind that Trincee holds snow much later in the season than Trincee and would also pose a problem, even on the  "easier" sections. That said, Trincee is a fascinating route, well worth the visit, and the difficult first stage can always be bypassed.

Of more concern to me is the fact that the Cable car from Arraba has never once been open when I've been there ;-(

Steve

Hi Graham,

Thanks for the reply. I've been reading through your book (vol I) and the routes look great.

My plan would be to start with a few easy Ferrata and work my way up. I guess I need to see for myself how easy a Grade 2 is and how much exposure is in a B before I try anything more challenging. There seem to be a good few beginner/medium routes in the Misurina region.

One final question - dio you have any personal preference for footwear on the ferrata?

I'm trying to decide between Boots, Climbing shoes and lightweight summit shoes.

I'll probably wear boots & keep the rock shoes in the rucksack just in case.

Rgds

John

 Hello again John: gald you appreciate the guidebooks!

A couple of comments on your latest post:

• You're right that there are some good routes for a relative beginner in the Misurina area, and it's a superb mountain group to explore. You can reach Misurina (and then onwards to Rif. Auronzo) by bus from Cortina, if that's where you're still planning to stay. 
• In my view rock boots are completely unnecessary for VFs. You'll be far better off with light weight Sportivas, or something similar - after all, they're designed for VFs. Also bear in mind that you'll be doing a lot of walking on pretty rough ground, so you'll need good ankle support.

Graham

 Hi David

If you plan to stay in rifugios, then you'll be provided with blankets, but will need to use a sheet sleeping bag, which are available to hire. Better still, take your own light-weight bag to minimise the environmental impact of the large scale laundering which is involved. Silk is perfect: it weighs next to nothing and is really comfortable.

Graham

Hi,

I have just bought a Petzl Scorpio Vertigo based Ferrata set. (Up till now I rented ones and didnt get the official description) And to my surprise its description doesnt allow it to be used on ferratas where the wire does not contain a loop where it is connected to the rod/peg that holds it to the rock becouse then it can break. Based on your pictures it is nowhere the case in Dolomits. (And the max allowed 3m vertical distance is exceeded in a lot of places as well.)

Do you think I can use it safely? Is there any ferrata carabiner that can be officially used there?

Of course the best protection is not falling ;o)

In begining of July can I expect some snow on Finanzieri, Trincee or Brigata Tridentina routes?

Graham

Thanks for your information - its appreciated. Will check out the supply of silk sleeping bags as suggested. Hope you are well - we met in the bar in Arraba a few years ago whilst staying in the Sport Hotel. You have since moved to the Dolomites by the looks of it - lucky for some ! Still can't complaint too much with the Yorkshire Dales on the doorstep - limited VFs in this area though.

regards

David

Hi David

I guess that, over the years, I’ve met quite a few people in bars, not only in Arabba! However, I’m useless on names, but near-perfect on faces. So I’m sure I’ll know you, but I can’t put a face to the name right now (it would be good if Andrew ever upgraded this site to enable photos to be posted).

Anyway: yes, we now live in the Dolomites on a permanent basis, having spent a few years dividing our time between here and the Lake District. As we say in Italy: ‘la vita e dura’.

Best wishes for the Brenta trip.

Graham

 Hi Gabor

I’ve been puzzling over your reference to the ferrata wire ‘containing a loop where it is connected to the rod/peg that holds it to the rock’. I’m still not sure what you mean, but perhaps you’re referring to the rubber devices that are sometimes found on the most recently constructed VFs, which are intended to absorb some of the impact of the karabiner when it reaches the lower end of the wire. Whatever you have in mind, any gear that you use can only reduce the chance of equipment breakage or personal injury, not completely eliminate it. As far as your karabiner is concerned, if it’s the one shown in this link:

http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/special-locking-carabiners/vertigo

then it’s designed specifically for VFs, so is as good as anything on the market.

You’re right in saying that the best protection is not to fall in the first place! In fact, over many years of climbing VFs, I’ve seen very few people fall, and I’ve never seen a serious injury, so don’t let your worries prevent you going out and enjoying the mountains.

You also ask about the chances of finding snow on Finanzieri, Trincee or Brigata Tridentina at the beginning of July. Since we’ve had the snowiest winter in 20 years, I guess you might, but not so much that those routes will be impossible. There’s still quite a lot of snow above 2000m, especially on north facing slopes, and in gullies, but it’s already possible to climb many VFs. It’s frequently in descent gullies where you’re most likely to find old snow, but the routes themselves are generally clear.

Graham

Hi,

thanks for your answer.

Regarding snow: If I managed to get up on a ferrata, then I am sure I will find some path down despite an eventual snow.

Regarding carabiner:

http://www.petzl.com/files/all/technical-notice/Sport/L60_SCORPIO_L60502-C.pdf

- is the descritption of the lanyard/carabiner. On the first page on the right bottom (Type of Via Ferrata)there is a shematic drawing showing my concern. On many French ferrata photos I saw that the wire has a curve at the bottom. Bot on the italian or Austrian ferratas as far I know a straight wire is being used.

Anyhow: Falling is not in my plans.

 Hi Gabor

Thanks for sending the link; now I understand what you were getting at. Actually, I don't ever recall seeing cables designed with that sort of loop near the bolts in the Dolomites - although I've come across them in Provence. As I said in my note, the newly built, or restored, VFs frequently have rubber 'stoppers'  to prevent a catastrophic impact in the event of a fall, but most have nothing of this sort, so I guess you're right: don't fall!

Graham

Hi,

I am planning to hike the AV2 from beginning to end in July and want to travel as light as possible. Would you recommend that I buy a harness etc. for this? I am not planning to over Marmolada. I hiked the AV1 last year (but not Schiara).

Thanks, jon

Love the site.  Headed over late Aug/early Sept.  Are all the routes pretty well marked?  Not planning on getting a guide but don't want to waste time route finding. 

Looking at doing a week this summer.  Want to do a couple of day of via ferrate and then a 3-4 days of low key hiking.  Want to minimize driving time from the via ferrate to where ever we decide to hike (assuming we have to drive) is there an area that you would recommend that has good hiking and some good ferrate

thanks

I'm not super familiar with the Alte Vie routes, but I'm guessing that you could probably get by without a harness, etc.   AV2 goes over the Marmolada?  to the highest point?

...Andrew

Hi Andrew,

Much appreciated

Alex

 Hi Chuck

You certainly don't need to hire a guide: a good guidebook will be fine. Most vie ferrate are easy to find, and easy to follow. Also, in the period you're planning on travelling, there will be plenty of other climbers around on all the more popular routes, so just follow the team in front!

Graham

 Hi Curtis

You're spoiled for choice! I'd suggest you consider one of these 4 areas:

• the Catinaccio/Sasso Lungo area, basing yourself in Campitello do Fassa
• the Sella/Puez Odle area, basing yourself in Arabba or Corvara
• the area round Cortina
• the Sesto area, basing yourself in Misurina

Each area provides far more than a week's worth of  climbing/walking, and I suggest that one thing you should consider in choosing between them is how you plan to get to the area, and then get around once you're here. For example, if you decide to rely on public transport, then Cortina's the best bet, but accommodation is more expensive there. Hopefully you've got time to do a bit more research, starting with Andrew's website, which is a real treasure trove!

Graham 

Hi.

Currently I have my tracks in the native .txt format output by the program 'GPS Utility' (http://gpsu.co.uk).   I could make those available.

...Andrew

My husband  and i are heading to Italy the end of August  for VF- we've climbed there in the past so slightly familiar with area- wondering your suggestions for favorite routes -we have three weeks

Hi, Alex

You are right that I only have some of my tracks available.  However, in the location you mention, there are actually more ferrata tracks than just the Canalone one:  Piz da Lec, Bren5, Trincee, Colac, Cima Auta, and Cristallo are also ferrata tracklogs.

Anyway, to make things a bit easier, and to include more of the ferrata, I've added a new folder in my file downloads called 'Ferrata'.  Also, on my via ferrata pages, the sidebar on the left now contains a link called 'GPS Tracks', under the 'Reference Material' section

Hope this helps,

...Andrew

P.S. At some point in the future I will likely offer various [other] formats directly from this site.

Alex wrote:

Hi,

Thanks for clarifications; I see that under http://alavigne.net/FileDownloads/index.jsp?dirselection=GPSData/Europe2005 you have only Ferrata Canalone.txt track file. I used http://gpsu.co.uk/ for opening and converting the file in a .kml (I use http://aeguerre.free.fr/Public/PocketPC/NoniGPSPlot/EN/index.php and Google Maps mobile on a WM6.1 GPS device).

Again much appreciated  if you take some of your time to put some other VFs .txt track files there.

Regards,

Alex

 

Andrew wrote:
 

Hi.

Currently I have my tracks in the native .txt format output by the program 'GPS Utility' (http://gpsu.co.uk).   I could make those available.

...Andrew

Alex wrote:

Hi Andrew,

Great site! Great forum!  We want also to discover the beauty of dolomites by taking some VFs this week and the next. It is possible to download some of your tracks (for example .kml file ) for later use with a GPS tracker? If yes, please let me know where we can find them.

Much appreciated

Alex

Much appreciated

Alex

 

 

 

 

Hi,

Thank you very much Andrew, I've  found most of Vfs around Cortina area - I'll use them in this trip.

Sorry for my ignorance of the other tracks, I was only interested in VF near Cortina D'Ampezzo.

Keep up the good work.

Regards,

Alex

hey andrew,

just dropping a line to say how much i am enjoying your site, i have just discovered it, and it is just what i have been looking for. i live in australia, and i love hiking, and have just discovered via ferrate  .klettersteig, really keen to do some planning then get back over to the dolomites and start my first foray into the iron road.

so thanks for all the work you put in, it is an excellent resource, and i am sure i am going to be spending some time on here in the near future!

have fun,

tania

Most kind.   Thanks!

Came back from the Cortina area two weeks ago. Never have I seen the Dolomites looking so spectacular. Still a lot of snow on the peaks clear sunshine and fresh air, superb. However around the Misurina area and just about everywhere in the gullies there is still alot of snow. Some of the cables on the easiest routes were covered and made them a bit more exciting. I had a 20m 8mm rope as a back up and it came in very useful to navigate across the snow fields. A couple of shortened walking poles would have been beneficial as I was using other peoples spike holes as finger holds (made it exciting anyhoooo). Oh and a belay device wouln't go amiss. There is still snow on the Tofana,  Kahoola micro spikes may have been useful. Perfect place to be though, less crowds in June as well. 

Hola

I am going to be in the dolomiti from August 1st to the 17. I am staying in Selva di Cadoore. Thi sight has been very helpful to decide waht via Ferratas to do.

I was wondring if someone knows of a similar site that describes rock climbing in the area.

Of course any Beta on easy routes ( 5.6 to 5.8) that are easy to descend from ( rappel or walk-off) would be greatly appreciated. please email ( stabachnik@yahoo.com)

Thanks

samuel

I just moved to Italy 3 weeks ago from the US and learned about via ferrata's locally.  I hiked to one just north of Lake Garda yesterday, I can't wait for my gear to come in that I just ordered!  I am having an issue converting the text tracks for GPS to Garmin.  Do you have any advice?  One of the ones I tried to convert was about 50 kilometers from where it should have been.

Can you tell me a bit more about how you went about doing the conversion? 

The track files on my site are from a shareware program called 'GPS Utility' (http://gpsu.co.uk).  It can convert those track files into just about any format, including garmin .gps files.   Also, there are other free-ish shareware-ish converters out there...

...Andrew

Hi Guys,

Just back from a fantastic week in the dolomites. Highlights were the West VF ascent of Marmolada & VF Cesare Piazzetta in the Sella Massif. Didn't get to do VF Tomaselli as the Storm came in on Fri Night/ Sat. 

Just wanted to say thanks a million for this great resource and also for answering my questions on gear/locations/difficulty.

Best regards

John

Thanks for the compliments.  I myself must do those great routes that you did.  They are on my list!

..Andrew

Hi Andrew,

Im planning to do the via feratta at the Bochette Alte. Do you have any info on organizers for this trek and climb route?  I don't  seem to be able to find any. My schedule there is going to be 15-21 Sept.  You may e-mail me at denagharan@gmail.com if you have any info. I contacted a company that offered a 4 day package in this route for 500 pounds but i have not heard from them yet. .thanks

Hi - I don't have any personal knowledge of guiding companies in the Brenta.   Perhaps others reading on this forum do.

How do you feel about doing the route without a guide?  It's very well-travelled and reasonably obvious to follow (and not that hard technically).

...Andrew

i dont mind doing the trek without a guide. It that im interested in the 4 day trek with accomodation in terms of refuges and food. thats the reason i asked about guided trips

Heading over in a few weeks and I see you recommend using a lanyard.  Anyway you could just use some webbing or some 9.5mm dynamic rope that I don't mind cutting instead of the lanyard?

Also,  did you ever figure out a scale that would equate to our climbing scale.  Some of the type 4 climbs look exposed but not technically difficult.  I would hate to get half way up and it gets really technical.

Hi Andrew,

I came back from a trip to the Brenta Dolomites 4 weeks ago. My first time in the mountatins.

We did Vidi, Benini, SOSAT, Bocchete centralle and Ideale and had the time of our lives. Weather was perfect, crowds were low - couldn't be better.

Your wonderful site helped me plan the trip - so thanks a lot!

I'm planning another trip on the first week of September, this time to the east Dolomites.

Where can I find a string of rifugi connected by vie ferrate for a comparable trek to the one we did in Brenta? Where would you go first - Tofana, Misurina, Sesto?

Thanks,

Guy

Dear Andrew.

Thanks for the site, it helped me plan a wonderful trip to the brenta Dolomites last year.

My friends and I are planning a 6 day trek to the east Dolomites on the first week of September.

We want to visit a string of Rifugi connected by interesting vie ferrate.

We like the exposure and enjoy fairly technical climbs, but wouldn't like very long or strenous walks.

Which range would be your first recommendation?

Thanks,

Guy

I have only spent a small amount of time in the very easternmost corners of the dolomites, but it does seem like there are a number of rifugios you could string together out there (I'm referring to the sesto dolomites). 

As far as the Cortina area, there doesn't to me appear to be a good continues string of rifugios in the Cristallo or Tofane groups.   I remember reading that the Sorapis group had some sort of nice circuit, but again, not having done it, I don't know how good it is.

Perhaps Graham will have more concrete suggestions....

...Andrew

 Hello Guy

It’s not uncommon for people who’ve spent some time climbing the Brenta VFs to ask if there’s anything similar in the main Dolomites. In fact there’s nothing quite like the Brenta, in the way that you can do an extensive tour by linking VFs, although there are three areas in the Dolomites worth looking at

The first is the Catinaccio area (if you’re using the Cicerone guidebook, look at FASSA 1-6).  I’m not sure it would meet requirements, though, because it’s in the far west, and your preference is for the east. Also, the climbing’s generally pretty easy.

The second area is the Pale di S. Martino group (look at the San Martino area in the 2^nd volume of the Cicerone guide). Again, though, it’s not the area you’re looking at, and there’s a fair bit of walking between routes, most of which are fairly straightforward.

The Sesto Dolomites, which Andrew’s already suggested, is the third location which you should look at (see both the Misurina and Sesto sections of the Cicerone guidebook). There’s a mixture of quite easy and fairly tough VFs here, but some involve a lot of walking so, again, I’m not sure it’s what you’re looking for.

Perhaps the problem is that you’re trying to replicate your trip to the Brenta. If your preference is for the harder climbs, then maybe you should head for a base like Cortina or Arabba, and forget the idea of a tour. Have a think about what’s important for your trip, and perhaps you’d like to post another question as your ideas get firmed up.

Graham

Thank you Andrew and Graham,

Given what you say - right now the idea would be to do two trips with 1 or 2 rifugio stops each, and spend one night in Cortina (good restaurant etc). Perhaps in the sella group and the Tofane. I'll read some more and get back to you if that's OK.

Guy

Hi Andrew,

First I want to say thanks for all the great info on your sight. It's very helpful so far. I'm head over to that area in a few weeks and I was wondering if I could pick your brain a bit? It will be my first time in the area, I'm traveling alone and am thinking I'll spend 5-7 days there. I'd like to do some Via Ferrata but maybe do some normal hiking too. Is there a town(s) that you think I should pick as a base? (and which

Cicerone Via Ferratas Book would correspond to that area) Since I'm traveling alone, I'll need someone to hike the VF with. Do you know of any shops that offer day trips? Or should I just pick up a harness/helmet and meet up people on the trails? Lastly, and transportation challenges (bus/train) that might dictate my trip and any must see/do recommendations?

Thanks for all your info and help!

Cheers,

Lou

louischristen@yahoo.com

Hi, Lou

The Cortina, Arabba, and Corvara areas all have good ferrate close to them.   These areas are documented in the 'volume 1' (North, Central, ane East) book of the Cicerone ferrata guidebooks.

Assuming you are comfortable, it is definitely possible to do the vie ferrate on your own, especially if it's a not-too-hard / popular route.  You'll likely have someone not too far away.   You could always hang around the start of a ferrata and stay close to another party when they come by, I suppose.

My understanding is also that the above areas have decent bus transport, which makes them additionally attractive for the parameters you supplied.   As for gear, I'm pretty sure there are gear shops around that will rent stuff.  I think Graham has already covered this in a post somewhere in this forum, so you might want to browse through the forum messages, looking for posts from Graham.   (set the messages per page to 100 and use the browser search -- that'll make it easier).

Most ferrate are very scenic -- I don't think you'll go wrong picking most any of them in the above areas.

Grahm

Sorry to bother you again but I can't get a reply to my emails from the Refugios in the Brenta. Can you give me an idea of what the cost of bed plus evening meal would be so we have an idea of how many Euros to take.

Hope you are having a good Summer and we are now really looking forward to out Brenta traverse.

David

 Hello again David

Not an easy question to answer!

 CAI rifugi have a centrally regulated price structure. But, each rifugio falls into one of four categories, depending on facilities, with a further sub division depending on whether you have a bed in a large dormitory, or a room with no more than four beds. Consequently, this year, the price of an overnight stay can vary from €20 - €30 per night if you’re not a member of CAI, or one of the other affiliated clubs (such as CAF or the Austrian Alpine Club). If you are a member of such a club, then the prices are generally reduced by 50% (bearing in mind that membership also includes insurance cover, then it’s well worth joining). If you turn up in a storm, and find the rifugio full, then you can expect to be given an emergency bed – which might be the floor in the corridor – for as little as €6-8 (again, there’s a 50% reduction for members).

You will be served a wholesome, if fairly simple, meal for about €10-15, including a glass of wine, and will pay in the order of €5 for a light breakfast (the reduction for members for food is generally about 20%).

However, as you’ll know, quite a lot of rifugi, including several in the Brenta, are privately owned and run, so they can charge what they like, although they’re usually not far out of line with CAI prices unless they’re pretty smart places – some are hotels in all but name.

Hope that helps but, if in doubt, bring too many euro – you’ll doubtless be coming back again!

Enjoy your trip, Graham

Is there a way to join CAI (online?) before going?  I went to the CAI website but it did not appear that was possible...

this question has been asked a number of times but ill give it another go.....does anyone have any suggestions for where I might be able to rent a VF kit near the Brenta group?  I will be in the Stelvio/Livigno area prior, then driving to Rif Valisinella to hike the SOSAT route.  After this I am heading to the dolomites (ortisei/val gardena) but the the only ferrata I plan on is SOSAT.

Any suggestions for where I could rent from?

Also, what kind of weather should I expect in a few weeks?

Thanks

I don't know about the CAI in particular (since I'm from Canada), but I do know that the CAI honors discounts for members of other countries' alpine clubs if they are part of the UIAA (which Canada and probably most of Europe's various clubs are).

...Andrew

My only guess would be something in nearby Madonna di Campiglio, but I don't know for sure.   Any other input out there?

so joining the american alpine club (AAC) should do it?  They offer an on-line enrollment so I could sign up right now...

so long as they are a member of the UIAA.  Here, let me have a look online... yes, according to the UIAA's website, the AAC has been a UIAA member since 1932.  

You need to bring your AAC membership card with you.  And, (hopefully) your membership card contains the UIAA logo.  That helps prove to the staff at the rifugio that your membership (i.e. that you are 'soci') is eligible for a discount.  

...Andrew

Graham

Thanks for the useful info - the message is take lots of Euros !! 

regards

David

Hi,

Awesome website! It is full of very useful information and astonishing pictures, thanks. I've discovered the dolomiti this summer and have been wanting to try the via ferrate ever since but didnt really know where to start. I plan on going again in 10 days and with your website... I feel almost ready!

One question though: Do you know by any chance if you can rent the necessary equipment around Corvara?

Thanks,

Jerry (jerryroos@gmail.com)

 Hi Jerry

Yes: you can hire everything you need, apart from boots of course, at Sport Kostner. You'll find the shop at the top of the town, behind the little bus pull-in area.

Graham

 Hello again Lou

Now that you’re hiring a car, and not dependent on public transport, you can indeed look at other possible bases. More importantly, with your own transport, you can also travel easily between bases and tackle routes in different sections, something that’s not so easy to do if you’re using the local buses. For example, from Arabba, you can easily get to the routes in the Corvara and Falzarego sections, and some of the Cortina routes, all within 30 – 40 minutes.

However, I suggest you start by thinking about what sort of climbing you want to do, since I reckon this will determine the best base for you. I remember from your original post that you’re looking to hire gear, so I guess this is going to be your first time on VFs (but maybe you’ve got a lot of rock climbing experience?). You might therefore be looking for some of the less taxing routes to start with, and since the Arabba/Falzarego area’s got some of the harder routes in the Dolomites, this might not be the best place to start.

If you do prefer an area with a concentration of easier/mid-grade routes, then maybe you should consider the Sesto area (Misurina’s a good base, and with a big campsite). It’s also one of the richest areas in terms of WW1 history, if this happens to interest you (most of the VFs are based on old military routes).

The other area which offers a concentration of easier routes is Val di Fassa. Campitello and Canazei are both good starting points, and both have campsites. From here, you can access a lot of routes in the Fassa and Selva sections of the guidebook.

To be honest, you’re spoiled for choice, and you can do some great climbing from any of the various bases that Andrew and I have suggested, but I suggest you make your choice on the basis of the type of route you want to climb. Incidentally, I agree with Andrew’s remark that you don’t need to join a guided trip; these are popular areas, so you’ll be in company most of the time anyway.

One final thought: have a look at the updates section of the Cicerone website, because there are quite a few new routes and other updates you should be aware of. The link is:

http://www.cicerone.co.uk/product/detail.cfm/book/362/title/via-ferratas-of-the-italian-dolomites--vol-1

Best wishes  Graham

Hi Graham,

we arrived in Arrabba today (along with thousands of racing cyclists) to discover that the Porta Vescova cable car stops operating today. That might make ARAB2 outside our reach (especially given the weather forecast for this week). The original list you kindly provided me with earlier in the year (message 399?) was Corv2, Corv4, Corv5, Arab2 and Arab1. Although we would still love to do Arab2 we think it might possibly be too big a day given the weather and Arab1 recommends a saftey rope (which we don't have). Could you possibly recommend another couple of routes which would suit the weather/lack of cable cars?
We will visit the tourist information office tomorrow morning but at this stage we don't know if the Valln chairlift is stuill operating or not (Corv5)

Thanks
Sylvia

 Hi Sylvia

Rotten timing with the weather! After a wonderful summer, the rain started yesterday (Sunday) afternoon, and is forecast to continue, probably until Thursday. We live at only 650m above sea level, so it’s still falling as rain, but I’d guess you’re getting some snow on the mountains above Arabba. If it really is too bad to contemplate doing the ferratas round Arabba, then the usually reliable fallback is a trip to Fiames, north of Cortina. The two routes there (CORT 2 and CORT 3 in the guidebook) are at a much lower altitude, and are fine routes. It’ll take you perhaps 11/2 hours, but if that’s the only way to get a ferrata done, then it’s worth the drive.

I don’t recall how long you have, but if the weather does improve in time, then the Vallon lift operates till 20^th September this year, so you can still tackle VF Piz da Lech (CORV 5). As for VF delle Trincee (ARAB 2), then you can always follow the advice in the guidebook, and walk in to the route from Ristauro Lezuo, a little below Passo Pordoi.

We advised a safety rope for the Piazzetta route mainly with mixed ability parties in mind. A ferratist with a reasonable amount of experience and confidence won’t have much trouble with this route; it’s certainly not the hardest of the Grade 5 routes in my view. However, if there is a weaker member of your party, or someone who isn’t comfortable with the big exposure you’ll experience, then a rope in the rucksack is a sensible precaution. You’ve only just arrived, so after you’ve completed a few routes, you’ll be in a better position to make the necessary judgement – if the weather allows!

Best wishes,  Graham

Hi Graham,
thanks for that advice we'll certainly take it on board once/if the snow clears.
Regards
Sylvia

Dear Graham

Your info about the refuges was pretty much spot on - about €50 per night all in. The trip went really well - the weather was brilliant ( 7-10 Sept) but the huts were surprisingly full. We did the

Via Ferrata Sentiero Alfredo Benini

Via Ferrata Sentiero delle Bocchette Alte

Via Ferrata Sentiero delle Bocchette Centrale

and then long walk back to Madonna to avoid a bit of glacier. This has got to be a pretty unique expedition linking such a length of via ferrata together and very memorable. Thanks for your advice and hope you had a good summer.

regards

david

 Hi David

Thanks for the feedback: always good to hear of people enjoying themselves in the Dolomites! You certainly ticked off some real classics this time - doubtless you'll be starting to plan your next trip soon!

Best wishes,  Graham

Hi, can anyone give me an idea of the lift prices?. We (a family of four) are going summer 2010 and intend using the lift systems to access some of the ferrata's. Of particular interest are the Cristallo, Falzarego and Arabba (Portovescovo) lifts. Any information will be of great help so i can budget for this.

 Hi Julian

The information you need is normally to be found at this website:

www.dolomiti.org

However, it seems to be down at the moment (perhaps it’s being updated for the winter season), but check it out later for prices, operating seasons and timetables.

In the meantime, I can give you a fairly good idea of the prices for a couple of the lifts you mention, although they might be slightly more expensive next summer.

Falzarego: return ticket, €13; one-way, €9.

Portovescova: return ticket, €10; one-way, €8

The Cristallo lift is a 2-stage system, and I don’t recall the prices, so you’ll need to check the website later to complete the picture. Incidentally, if it’s relevant to your family group, you’ll find that on most lifts, there are discounts for children and seniors, perhaps in the order of 20%.

Graham

Thanks Graham, your info is a big help, and i will check out the website next spring. In the meantime  I had better start saving right now....

julian

Hello.

we got back september 12th from a three week trip to the Dolomites.  The via ferrata was wonderful. We did  14 routes ranging from 1A to 5C.   Alot of the routes we did were recommended from your site- Thanks for the good info and woderful pictures.

Hello everybody,

A new via ferrata is built since august  2009 in Cortina d'Ampezzo .

Its name : Ski Club 18 al Faloria .

I climb it for  this september  2009 and it's a pleasure for me to give you informations .

Start : teleferic station to Faloria mount in Cortina which leave you at middle way station , then you go by  sender to the roc base in 35 mn.

Ferrata development: about 400m uneven; vertical climbing; many rungs; rigid cable and no way out; new safety equipment for carabiners in case of falling along the cable.

Level of difficulty : very difficult ; scale D/E . 

Return : two options : telepheric descent  or walking on forest road to Rio Gere then by sender forest to Cortina.

Comments : Ski Club 18 is a difficult ferrata ; splendid views on surroudings Cortina moutains ( Averau, 5 torri, Tofane, Pomagagnon, Cristallo, Lagazuoi); recommendations for teleferic : buy a come/back ticket. At the top it is a bar -restaurant and you can take beautiful pictures of Cortina and surroundings. Climbing ferrata Ski Club 18 is possible many months in the year except when snow is very important arrouding.

That's all !

Thanks for the info on the new route, Aruges.   Good to see you posting again!

 Hi Andrew,

I've been looking at your website as I'm planning to do about 5 days of walking (with 3 other guys) in the Dolomites some time in early July 2010. We plan to start off with some fairly easy walks, building up day by day and finish our week by doing the Via delle Bocchette Centrale. In your description of this walk you mentioned that you satyed in rifugio Brentei. I'd be most grateful if you could give me some details about rifugio Brentei. For example, what level of accommodation is it, do we need sleeping bags, do we need to make a booking, is food available or must we carry our own food in? Looking forward to hearing from you. Regards, Rob.

Hi, Robert.  To answer your questions:

1. Do you need sleeping bags?  strictly speaking, no, not a full-on bag - but you do need to use some sort of 'liner sack' - a lightweight sleep-sack, if you will (a sleeping bag is acceptable, too, if you wish).   If you don't bring your own, the rifugio will probably have disposable ones you can buy.  It's better and cheaper if you bring your own.
2. Level of accommodations - if they have them still available, you'll likely be able to get a private room to yourself, according to the size of your group.  If those are already taken, then you'll be placed in the group dorm rooms.   I think the price is more or less the same either way.
3. Food - there is food available.  In fact, it's quite like being in a restaurant;  there are several choices and a menu.  Usually quite tasty, too.
4. If you can get membership in an Alpine Club that is affiliated with the UIAA, you can present that at the rifugio for a big discount on the accommodations and perhaps a small discount on the food.   Check for an alpine club associated with your country of origin.

Hi,

I'm interested to know whether attempting the Via Ferrata SOSAT route around late April is too early or not. From what I've read there may still be plenty of snow / ice around at this time of year. Can Andrew or others help with some basic information here?

Cheers,

Vernon

 Hi Vernon

Despite the fact that Sentiero SOSAT is just about the lowest level ferrata in the Brenta, I still think that late April is totally unrealistic to climb it as a VF – at that time of year you’d have to regard it as a full-on winter alpine route. For example, last year (admittedly after a particularly snowy winter) it was only just coming into condition in July.

We obviously don’t know how much snow we’re going to get during the rest of this winter, but I’d suggest that you defer your trip for at least 2 months. However, if you’re committed to travelling to Italy in April, and want to climb some VFs, then you could consider going to Lake Garda. There are some outstanding routes there, and April’s just about the perfect time of year to climb them.

Graham 

Hi, Lou

Glad to hear that everything went well, and glad that the site was of use (and I myself am grateful that Graham chooses to post his wisdom here).

Maybe we'll bump into each other someday on a trail in Maine -- I'm working to complete my NE 111er list and most of the ones I have left are 4000-footers in Maine.

...Andrew

Andrew,

Your website is awesome!  The only problem is that I'm having a hard time deciding which routes to do for a 2 week trip to the Cortina area this summer.

What might you recommend if we wanted to break it into several 4-5 day "tours" going hut-to-hut by via farreta?

We're happy having a night here or there in the middle in a town and perhaps taking lifts to get back up high again the next morning.  We're comfortable on harder routs and going trad and can have a light rack if needed.  I'm also interested in the old WWI tunnels etc.

Any suggestions appreciated.

Hi, Eric

While I'm no far-ranging expert, I can say that the area in the Sesto dolomites somewhat east of Cortina offers good multi-day outings with huts and World-war I tunnels and artifacts (e.g. ferrata De Luca / Innerkofler, strada degli alpini, etc).

Somewhat west and south of Cortina is the ferrata delle Trincee (good wartime stuff there including tunnels), although this one is not as well position for hut-to-hut stuff.

A little ways west of Cortina, the Lagazuoi galleries is a very interesting extensive set of tunnels and rooms and such, but is very easy climbing-wise.  However, nearby I hear that there are some excellent and challenging ferrate (I believe it is called the ferrata Tomaselli -- one that I have not yet done) and some good mountain huts, so perhaps both can be combined together.

My answer is a bit thin... perhaps others will have extra to suggest.

...Andrew

 Hi Eric

I’ve seen Andrew’s advice that the Sesto Dolomites would be worth including in your itinerary. It certainly seems to fit the bill, offering hut to hut tours, and lots of wartime stuff, although most of the routes are easy to mid-grade.

The other area I would suggest you consider for one of your trips is the Arabba/Corvara area, where the climbing is more challenging. Andrew mentioned one of the classic routes in the area (VF delle Trincee). The other routes here that you really should climb are Piazzetta, Piz da Lech, and Brigata Tridentina. There’s a good network of huts in the area, but they don’t lend themselves to a hutting tour quite so much as the Sesto area (unless you have a car available?).

For the rest of your trip, I reckon you should consider staying in Cortina itself. Accommodation isn’t cheap here, but the routes accessible from town are too good to ignore. Have a look at Lipella, Tomaselli (mentioned by Andrew), Col dei Bos and, if you have a spell of poor weather, the lower altitude routes at Fiames (Bovero and Strobel).

Incidentally, if you’re only climbing  VFs, then don’t bother to carry  rack. One of the great things about VFs is that you don’t need to lug tons of gear around!

Graham

Hil Andrew,

If I can be of any assistance for your hikes in Maine or the White Mountains in New Hampshire, please feel free to contact me. I'm more that happy to return the favor. FYI - If you want to hike Mt Katahdin in BaxterState Park, they start taking reservations 4 months in advance. And it's highly advisable to reserve if you plan to visit in the summer months.

Thanks again,

Lou

Louischristen@yahoo.com

Thanks, Lou

I've actually already hiked Katahdin a couple of times.   What do you mean by a 4 month reservation, though?   As far as I know, you only need to show up super early at the gate to get to hike up the mountain on that day.  Perhaps you mean for backcountry camping? 

I've read that August is the most crowded time to do the via farreta in the Dolomites.

How far in advance should huts be booked?

I'd say three or four days in advance.

It depends on how nice of a room you wish to get, really.  Even if you call at the last minute (or even show up), they'll probably have space for you - typically in some common shared dorm area, though.   When you call ahead early, you can often get a custom-sized room for yourself (and your companions).

That's been my experience.

...Andrew

No worries, Andrew.

I guess if you want to just want to hike for the day, you can show up very early, but if you want to camp in the park, it's best to plan in advance. (It's a rolling reservation system. 4 months is the earliest allowed.) As I'm sure you know, they limit the amount of people in the park on any given day. That goes for day hikers and overnight campers. But it is possible to show up the get in if they are not “sold out” per say. New this year: They are allowing you to reserve a day pass for a specific trail head. The link went live just the other day. I just filled out my reservation form for August. :o)

Cheers!

Hello Andrew,

My wife and I are new to Via Ferrata climbing and will be spending four days around Trento in late May.  We've bought the Smith & Fletcher guidebooks and are looking to doing some climbing in the southern Dolomite region.  We have two questions that we're having difficulty finding the answers to and would appreciate any help you can offer.

1.  We're not at a point yet of owning our own equipment.  Is this something we can rent while over there, or do we need to invest in our own equipment before leaving the U.S.?

2.  We're in our late 20s and athletic (hiking, running, rock walls, etc), but since we've never climbed the Via Ferrata before, do you recommend taking a climbing course (at least for the first day) or do you believe that we can manage it on our own?

Sorry if these are novice questions, but thanks so much for any help you can offer.  You're website has really helped us plan our trip.

Best,

John

Hi, John

1. I know you can rent this sort of kit, but I've never done it myself, so I don't know how easy it is to pop into a sports store and do this (as in, I don't know if they have a lot of stock for rental, or are they often out, or do they have an off-season where they don't rent the gear, etc).   It's possible Graham (i.e. Fletcher) may be able to give you a better answer on this - look for a possible post here from him.

2. My feeling is that as long as you are reasonably nimble and have a good head for heights (which I'm getting the sense you do based on what you wrote), then you'll be fine.  You don't need to take a rock climbing course.  If you get to spots where climbing on the rock alone is too difficult, you can just switch to hauling on the protection cable.  Of course, you may want to start off on the easier grades and work your way up (instead of starting off with a '5', say).

3. You may already know this, but in late May the higher ferrate are likely to be snowed in.   You're close to the lower stuff in Trento (i.e. Riva area, etc), so I'm guessing that's where you are headed.

 Hi John

I think you’d have trouble finding somewhere to hire gear in the area you’re considering. It’s relatively easy to rent everything you need in the core of the Dolomites, but I can’t think of anywhere in the Trento area which could equip you. You could either buy what you need before you leave home, but if you prefer, you could wait till you get to Italy, where you’d find a good many gear shops selling VF sets. This would enable you to compare things like the karabiners incorporated, since these are probably the piece of kit where personal preference is most important. You’ll be fairly close to Arco (north of Lake Garda), where you’ll find the best selection of gear shops in the area.

Incidentally, I agree with Andrew’s advice about not needing to take a course before you tackle a VF, as long as you’re not too ambitious with your choice of routes on your first couple of outings. Andrew’s also right to add that, in late May, the higher altitude routes are out of the question.

Graham

I just went out to Gaetano Falcipieri yesterday, April 25, 1010.  Towards the top between the Big Ladder and the first summit, a winter avalance has knocked loose some of the cabling, the area is still passable but I wouldn't put too much weight on the cable.  Also just before the summit, the trail was covered in snow and ice.  It was a tricky area so we ended up turning around.  I was upset since we were so close to the first summit.  Other than that, it was a nice hike.  I think we were the first hikers for the season out there since the snow still looked untouched except for our footprints.  Maybe if I had brought a small shovel we could have proceeded on, but I didn't want to risk getting the the summit and having more ice and snow on the granite slabs.

I agree with Graham, Arco has a large supply of VF gear, relatively inexpensive.  If you have your own harness, that would save you some money, but the VF "lobster claws" generally cost between 30 and 65 euros.  You might want to grab a set of somewhat heavy duty gloves since the metal strands from the cable sometimes fray and you probably want to avoid getting them in your hands.

Hello,

This winter has been very long in Europe, so all the Alps are still covered snow about 1500m ( 5ooo feet).Many Dolomits vias ferratas will be unpracticable as usual until a long time. So before a dolomit trip this summer it will be necessary to take informations from dolomits refuges.

I see that users often are looking for material .Trento and Cortina are often indicated . You have also Canazei , at the Sella moutain base with many ferratas around : Finanzieri on Collac moutain, Oskar Schuster on Sasso Lungo, Piz Cir V and Grande Cir on Puez, Brigata Tridentina, etc...

Hi - Great Website!

I have been on 2 Via Ferrata Trips over the past few years. Anyhow - I am planning a trip at the end of May this year (only time I can escape work!) - do you have any experience of Via Ferrate at that time of year?

I would imagine some of the higher routes will be iced up - so I was planning to stay a bit lower....

Pete

Hi, Peter

Yep, you got it right - higher up will be snowed up at the end of May.   The lower routes around the Lake Garda area are your best bet for this time of year.   Aruges (a periodic poster to this forum) says that there's still snow right now down to 1500m - so I imagine that there's a good chance that anything over 2000m is still going to be quite snowy come May.

...Andrew

Thanks to everyone for the information and encouragement.  I'm hoping to make the ferratas a lifelong hobby.  

It took me a moment to associate Graham with the guidebooks.  The books are very helpful!  Graham: when you mention that equipment rental is easier to find in "the core of the Dolomites", what area were you referring to?  My wife and I are less fixed on the location (Trento/Garda), and more interested in making it a successful and fun first time climbing in the Dolomites.  I would appreciate your insight into taking full advantage of the region from a beginners point of view.  I don't mean to take up any more space on the message board, but please email me at johnpaul.kuehne@gmail.com with any suggestions you may have.

Again, my appreciation to everyone.

Andrew,

Fantastic website. It really gives a good inisght into the via ferrata in the dolomites.

A friend and I are planning to go to Cortina for 1 week in mid july and were looking for some advice on 2-3 day routes staying high in the rifugios.. We have reasonable climbing experience.

We have been looking at the Tofana and Cristallo groups around Cortina and would like to organise a circular route of 2 -3 daysof via ferrata and high traverses. Can you recommend any suitable rifugios or routes that would link the best via ferrata with rifugios. We have the Vol 1 Cicerone guide but are finding it tricky to plan a route. Also do you have any advice on how to book rifugios?

My e mail is andymellington@gmail.com.

Many thanks,

Andrew

 Hi - Just after a bit of advice.  I am coming over from New Zealand and hope to be in the Dolomites late May.  Need advice on which area would be best considering late snow for VF.   Have only done 2 VF's before from Arabba - I think one was called Piazetta which was great -   So am after that sort of thing -  However I  fear Arabba area might be snowed up.   Can anyone advise.  Have mountaineering background but am after some VF's that are not in the snow - I sort of like flitting around in ballet shoes these days.

Many thanks

 Hi.

As has been mentioned recently in other posts, late May = snowed-in at the higher elevations (including the ferrata around Arabba that you've referred to).  You want something in the lower areas, like around Riva.  If you want challenging, steep routes, I know there are a couple of hard sporty routes in that area.  I haven't done them, but I've read about them in the Fletcher/Smith guidebook (Although I might give them a go when I'm in the area in late June this year)

Around Around Riva Del Garda/ Trento : V.F. Ottorino Marangoni or V.F. Di Mori ( village) , scale difficulties D -----

V.F. Rino Pisetta at Sarche , level D ;

V.F. Dei Colodri , level B ;

V.F.  Di Dro castello ( Dro castle) short ferrata into a small canyon called Rio Salagoni.Level C;

That's all V.F I know at low altitude .

 Hey many thanks for the guys - much appreciated and gives me something to work on.

Cheers

Andrew,

Thanks for the information. I will check out the Rive Del Garda area instead.

Many thanks once again.

Wish me luck of no snow and rain, I'm going to the "Pasubio" via ferrata in the morning.  I hope the snow has cleared from it since last month. 

You know, the Pasubio Via Ferrata is considered "Easy"  Either I'm very out of shape, or not in as good of shape as I thought!  I made it to just before the 4th summit after you do the sharp decent.  It took us about 3 hours to get to that point.  It probably would have gone a little bit better but the wind was blowing pretty hard up on the ridge, luckily almost all of the snow was clear from the top except we ended up using one of the side trails to get on the lower 52 Gallerie's trail and the snow was about chest deep along the area we went through.  Overall it was amazing, I wish I wasn't afraid of heights!  The cable placement was a little odd, some of the places definitely didnt need cables, other places I wish there was cable.  I would have definitely felt uncomfortable back tracking there.

Thanks for the update on the snow conditions.

...Andrew 

I hope to visit the Bocchette Centrale at the start of June, however the refugio Brentei and Alimonti are both closed until the 20th June.

Does anyone know if there are any open 'winter rooms' to these huts? or if there are any bivi huts up there that we can stay at?

Thanks

Steve

Hi:  Just love your website on climbing in the Dolomites.  My wife and I are planning a trip in September for a week in the Dolomites.  Our trip will be entirely travelled by rail or bus.  We are looking for information on the best locations with easy access to numerous routes on the Via Ferrata as well as whether a good pair of approach shoes would be sufficient.  Any information you could provide us would be greatly appreciated as your photos have inspired us.  We are avid outdoor people with lots of hiking experience but limited climbing.

Clarence

Hi.

If you are doing things entirely by rail / bus, then I'd suggest one of the larger centers.  How about Cortina D'Ampezzo?   There are many good ferrata routes of all types in this area, and I think you can reach many decent ferrata start points by bus from there (e.g. Punta Fiammes, stuff in the Cristallo Group, etc).

As far as shoes go, I think you'll want something with a reasonably stiff sole to help you climb on the ferrate.  Going with outright rock-climbing shoes is overkill on ferrate, though - you want a hiking/mountaineering boot of some sort.

 Hi Steve

I really can’t remember whether the Brentei and Alimonti have emergency/winter accommodation, but I think the main point to make is that this is not a route which you should really be considering as early as the beginning of June. It’s a high altitude route, with a glacier crossing, and we’ve had a lot of late winter/early spring snow this year, so I suggest you rethink your plans. There’ve been several recent posts on this site, most recently from AJ just a few days ago, outlining the sort of conditions they’ve encountered, and I wouldn’t ignore their comments lightly.

Graham

Hello, first of all can I say what a useful and interesting site you have created, I am giong to the Dolomites in Early July , and now I have seen some of the photos I am starting to get a bit nervous! I consider myself relatively fit , so I am not worried about stamina, but I am not sure how I am with heights, some of the images of ledge walking have definately left me wobbly... any advice??

Hi there.

If you are unsure about heights, then I'd pick those routes which are more solidly and extensively protected.   Then you'll have the reassurance of something bomber to hold on to at all times.

Another suggestion is to pick a route with exposure but which is not too long, so that you can get a taste if you are ok with it. 

Anybody know if Via Ferratta Eterna Brigata Cadore - Punta Serauta is open?

Hi, I have just returned from 5 days Via Ferrata in the Dolomites. I just wanted to let you know that the snow level around Cortina D'ampezzo is still around 2300m. I did the via ferrata michelli strobel, which was in excellent condition on the way up - but did involve trekking through snow on the top!

good to know - thanks!

I took a whole bunch of friends out on a Ferrata today for their first time.  They loved it! They all went out to buy their own gear and we are planning on taking some trips.  I'm hoping to stay within a 2-3 hour radius of Vicenza.  I think Che Guevara or the 52 Galleria route might be good.  Today was a perfect day to be out!  The only problem I had was the crowd.  The entire route was lined with people.  Originally I wanted to go back down the same route we went up on, but with the amount of people on it, that wouldn't have worked out.

HI everybody, I am planning visit Dolomites with my friends on August. We want to stay in hut Brentei. I cannot find any website of this hut. Can anybody send me some information... e-mail,phone numbers. I only find out that rif.Brentei is open from 20.6. and I am afraid that it will be too late make reservation if there is so crowded already. Please help me ..thank you ..Alena

Rifugio Maria e Alberto al Brentei:

Telephone # +39 0465 441244

I think it is quite unlikely you will have a problem if you call on 20 of June to make reservations for August.   

I have made reservations in July only a few days before arriving, with no problem.

...Andrew

Hey, Hey !

On 29th June i'm going to dolomites and I need via ferrata  aquipment - lanyard .

Maybe someone want to sale it [cheaper than in the shop :P ] or rent it for 2 weeks ????

PleaseEE HEEELP mEEE :P good italian wine in return for it hihi ;)

And if you have any useful info about ferratas or  weather in first week of july  don't keep it to yourself !!

with tourist greetings , Ciao ciao !

Jo

Graham,

   I have been reading about all the other Ferratas around the area, whats the slim chance you might have some GPS tracks for them?  I was hoping to have a great summer visiting a good portion of the northern Ferratas, but unfortunately the Army has some other plans for me.  I need to stick to the Vicenza area and am hoping to go to all the ones in the Vicenza region and maybe try a couple around Garda.

AJ

 Hi AJ

Sorry, but I have very few GPS tracks of VFs, none of which are round the Vicenza area. I usually don’t bother trying to record VF routes since, on rock faces, the signal is frequently lost and, even more often, distorted by false signals resulting from ‘echoes’ off the face. However, I really doubt whether you need the extra guidance of a GPS track to follow, since waymarking is generally perfectly adequate. The only exception amongst the five routes in the Vicenza section is the Vaio Scuro route (VICEN 4), but I tried to give as full and clear a description as possible of the line to take, so you probably won't have any problems. However, don’t be put off by my comments about the poor waymarking and difficult route finding: this is spectacular mountain terrain, and I’ve never seen anyone else on this route, so you can be guaranteed a memorable day.

Perhaps you’ll let us know how you get on with another post on Andrew’s site.

Graham

Hi, AJ

As a further note on Graham's post - there's a very good chance that I will be doing some of the VICEN routes (1,2 and possibly even 3) sometime next week (probably the 21st and 22nd of June).   And as I always do, I'll be attempting to make detailed tracklogs of the routes.   You are more than welcome to have them when I'm done.

Or perhaps I'll even see you on the routes up there!

...Andrew

Thank you Andrew ...

Alena

 At 61 I'm about to start my VF experience.  As I look at gear I see energy absorbing lanyards such as Petzl Scorpio Eashook, and what look like static lanyards, e.g Petzl Zyper Vertigo.  What are the differences.  As a beginning in VF what should I be looking for.  I should add I am quite fit, with over 40 years of New Zealand tramping experience but no alpine (snow / ice) skills.  In Sept 2010 I'll be spending 2 weeks in the Dolomites, tackling Grade 1 & 2 routes, and maybe 3 by the end of the trip, 

THanks

Hello. Im organizing my very first via ferrata tour in the dolomites and I have some questions: I have got a pair of North Face Hedgehog XCR shoes. Are these suitable for via ferrata? Is it possible to do several via ferrata in one day?

Many thanks

Hi.

Yes, you can definitely do a ferrata in those hiking boots - although they don't look like they would be very good for edging - which may make more difficult pitches a bit more difficult.

To answer your second question - yes, in some cases you can do more than one ferrata in a day - assuming the ferrate are not too long (which is definitely sometimes the case).

...Andrew

Hi Andrew, I have more questions for you. How big  are there the rooms at Rif.Brentei. Our group is getting larger and maybe over 10 people want to go with us. We would like to stay all together so we want to know if there are bigger rooms, something like dormitory or hostel. And if you recommend us to order meal in advance (for larger group like us)or there it will not be a problem to buy it right at the place according to the actual situation? I would be glad for approximately prices if you know them or if you can refer me to some websites. Did you hear about membership in the moutain club? What does it supposed to be its member and get better prices? Thank you so much. Alena

Rif. Brentei is quite a large rifugio.  they have dorm rooms that can easily accommodate 10 or more.   You don't need to order your meals in advance.  They are pretty much always ready to handle the food needs of many people every day.

Oh, and one more thing - yes, if you are a member of an alpine club associated with the UIAA (you will have to check for your own country to see if this is the case), then you get a 50% discount on the lodging portion of the costs.

...Andrew

Thank you, Andrew! You do a realy great job on this pages!

Alena

Andrew, I might be up for a trip on the 21st.  I just got back with a group that attempted the 52 Gallerie trail.  They did great for about everybody in the group being afraid of heights.  We completed about 2/3 of it but because of time constraints, we had to head back.  We are going back out on Monday the 21st, but I don't know where.  We will be introducing some new people to the group and might go to the "ice breaker" north of Arco at Castelo Dro.  If you will be in the Vicenza area, maybe we could meet up to go get some tracks at one of the uncharted sites. 

Hope to hear from you soon!

AJ

 I'm looking for recommendations & sources for digital maps of the French Alps and  Dolomites, suitable for use on a laptop.  Preferred scale 25,000:1 - 50,000:1.   The mapping software I use is Oziexplorer, but I also can run Memorymap, running on Windows XP.  Don't mind purchasing commercial products, but if there are free ones around that's fine.  

Thanks, Graham, Perth - Australia

 Hi Graham

Have a look at these links.

This one is a free download, which I’ve found to be pretty accurate, but not infallible:  http://xoomer.virgilio.it/hcgnar/eng.html#mappe

This one is a commercial product, now only available from Garmin, but originally produced by a local company here in the Dolomites. You’ll be able to find it on various file sharing sites (as long as you can lay your hands on a crack code, which shouldn’t be too difficult). This is a high quality product, but only covers about half the Dolomites so far:

https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?pID=36358

Finally, there’s a product I’ve not used personally, but it’s worth a look:

http://www.mynav.com/home.asp?dlin=eng

Graham

The Garmin Trekmaps are pretty good, I have most of the maps and the coverage isn't bad at all, so far it has covered all the areas of the dolomites that I have been to.

Hi there.

We'll be heading off from Giazza tomorrow by roughly noon / 1pm-ish, heading up to to do the VICEN 1 route, and staying at the rifugio Fraccarol.  Then the next morning we'll head southwest along the Costa Media ridge, completing the VICEN 2 route (and perhaps the VICEN 3 route), if we feel like it.

Perhaps we'll see you.   Who or what should we look for?

...Andrew

We are going to be leaving Vicenza about 7 AM, due to the weather, we are taking our gear and just heading out north of Arco without much of a plan, we don't want to end up getting stuck on the top of one of the mountains and are going to hit up one of the easier routes, possibly Che Guevara.  Good luck with the weather!  I hope you get some good GPS tracks!

We had a great day of climbing.  I have a big group of guys that are planning on going on a camping trip around the 10th of July.  Basically setting up a base camp at Arco and trying out some of the Ferrata's out there.  Hopefully it goes well and the weather holds up. 

Andrew, how was your trip?

Oh, pretty good.  We did the VICEN 1 route on the first day, stayed for a very nice evening at rifugio Fraccaroli, and descended VICEN 2 early on the second day.   Decent weather, too.

Probably will be doing another few ferrate next week -- probably this time in the higher dolomites.

...Andrew

I am thinking about doing the Bochette Alte route next weekend.  What do you think is the best way to make it a loop route?  I would hate to complete the ferrata just to have to right back down the same way.  But, by the look of the tracks, the most direct route would be straight over the mountain which probably wouldn't work.  Is there parking somewhere close to the start and end point?  I am trying to make it a day trip if possible.