Tuesday, July 17
(...continued from previous page)
After a brief inspection of the little monument at the summit, we headed
off to find the nearby rifugio, along with some cold, tall ones!
Our group on Monte Casale
We located the rifugio - a trim little stone building in the classic
style of rifugios in Italy - built of stone, with blue-and-white
shuttered windows, and an outdoor deck. "Rifugio Don Zio, m.1600" was
painted prominently along the front.
It looked closed.
Not wanting to believe, we circled around back, tried the doors, and
examined the tiny bivacco room in the back. No one around, and more
importantly - no water! We were basically out of the stuff, and ahead of us we had a long
trudge back down to the car.
There was a sickly looking plastic tube leading down from the roof and
with a sign saying 'acqua non potabile'. Even though it looked pretty
rank, it was better to have some sort of liquid in case we really needed
it, so I filled up one bottle with the stuff. Just in case we got desperate.
We could do nothing now except head down, so we started down the gravel
road that served as the trail up to the rifugio. It was very pleasant
up here on Monte Casale, with large open fields and gentle slopes.
After a few minutes of walking, we spied a quaint-looking
mountain-chalet style house. Jenn and the others were keen for me to
head over and beg..er..ask for some water. I in general do not like to
bother or impose on people, so I resisted these requests at first, but
finally gave in when the idea of paying the owner for some water was
Chatting with Nino
I approached the house, where the aforementioned mowing tractor was now
parked. I introduced myself to the tractor driver and an older
gentleman. I explained who we were and our predicament with the rifugio
(which is when I was informed that the rifugio is only open on
weekends). The two men, named Andrea and Nino, were father-and-son,
and this house was the father's house.
Chatting with Nino
Nino, the father, was a burly
Italian man of the most typical kind. He was jovial and friendly, and when I
tentatively asked if we could buy some water from him, he
immediately invited us to sit at his covered outdoor table,
went inside the house and returned with several bottles of cold mineral
We spent the next half-hour talking with Nino, who was most amiable.
Since he could only speak Italian, and everyone in our group except for
me could only speak English, I became the imperfect conduit for the
Nino explained that he was a retired 'gommista', or
tire-repairman, and had a shop down in the town of Pietramurata
(where we started our climb). He was retired now, and spent pretty much
his entire time up here in his pretty mountain house. We asked him
about where he lived during winter-time; apparently even then he lives
here, accessing the house via snowmobile. Nino had visited Canada in
the past, and had many nice things to say about his visit, including how
good the meat was compared to Italy.
After emptying many bottles of mineral water (Nino had to go back into
the house to get us more bottles!), the conversation wound down.
Before we left, Nino insisted that we come over to a flower planter in
front of his house, where he then proceeded to give each of us a 'Stella
Alpina' flower, explaining that they were well-suited to being pressed
between the pages of a book.
Nino refused to take any sort of money
for the water, so we had to resort to subterfuge, placing a 5-euro note
underneath one of the placemats on his table while he wasn't looking.
What a jovial, friendly man, and what a pleasant visit this was.
With golden late day light illuminating the open fields of the summit of
Monte Casale, we said our goodbyes and started on down, now
substantially refreshed - both hydrologically and mentally. The first
part of the descent route follows Nino's private road to his house (which also doubles as the path up to and down from the rifugio).
After a while a trail junction is reached, and we head off south, on a
track that led down into deciduous forest.
A short while later we reached a side trail for something called 'acqua
del duson'. This sounded like a spring, so we headed over to
investigate. It indeed was a spring, but only flowing in with a small
trickle of drops, and Jenn partially filled up her water bladder (it was
too slow of a process to do much more than that). From the vantage
point of the fountain, we could see where our descent route was located.
It was a forested slope, but a very, very steep one. Rarely do you see
such a steep slope that still has continuous forest cover. Any trail
going down that was sure to be interesting!
Whoa! Down there
The trail led mostly on the level (past a junction leading down to the
northwest) to the top of the aforementioned steep, forested slope, where
a junction marked the start of the steep descent trail.
Steep, steep path
At this point, the route
immediately starts down the steep slope, and continues down in this
manner for a good long distance. The trail is actually protected with
an almost continuous wire. Without the wire, the trail would be pretty
challenging - and even with it, care is required.
Practically a ferrata
Partway down, Pu's
camera bag unlatched, taking his camera and new lens on a bouncing
little fall down about 100 feet (lots of cursing from Pu, too).
Fortunately, the only casualty was the skylight filter on the front of
A final ladder
Carefully, slowly, and tiringly, we picked our way down the steepest
forested trail I've ever hiked on. the bottom of the really steep stuff
was marked by an old ladder with several missing rungs. Below that,
the wire ended, and the trail continued down through the forest.
First intersection with forest road
Now only merely very steep (instead of ridiculously steep), the trail
lost elevation rapidly, heading pretty much straight down the fall line
of the slope. Eventually, the trail crossed an old forest road. This
marked the start of a slightly confusing section, where the trail
continues straight down the slope, crossing and re-crossing the
switchbacking forest road many times. The guidebook had some
instructions which said that one should turn left at a crossing of the
road where a gate is visible, but this turned out to be incorrect (for
us, anyway). In the end, we continued straight down the trail, keeping
to the left at a branch on the trail somewhat below the location where
that gate is located. This whole descent was tiring and rather
unpleasant - we were getting thirsty again, and it had been a long day.
Forest road gate
In the end, the trail stops at the forest road, and in fact this forest
road led back to Pietramurata, and the spot where we parked the second
car, it turns out, is at the end of this forest road. So, I suppose if
you were hopelessly confused, you could just follow the switchbacking
road to its end. Have a close look at my interactive trackmap of this
hike, so that you can map these directions to a drawn line and to
various geographic reference points.
Finally... back at the car
If I had to do this route again, and I had two vehicles (or in any case,
the ability to start and end at two different points), I would probably
choose not to descend via this route, and instead descend to a trailhead
on the west side of Monte Casale. The elevation loss would be much less
and the trail much more pleasant to follow.
A look at Monte Casale
Tired and thirsty, we quickly shuttled back to the first car (parked at
the parking lot near the quarry), and drove the 20-minute drive back
south to Riva del Garda, where we had a quick freshen-up and then a
long, pleasant, well-earned meal at a restaurant downtown.
If you'd like to read more about the Ferrata Che Guevara, please click here
to go to my dedicated Via Ferrata page's route description.
Interactive Trackmap & Photo Points - Ferrata Che Guevara - Click map to expand
Climbing Log for the Ferrata Che Guevara
* : +/- 75 feet
Total Elevation Gain:
Total Elevation Loss:
* : +/- 75 feet
[ Dolomites 2007 home
page | July 14 / Intro
| Sun, July 15
| Mon, July 16
| Tue, July 17
| Wed, July 18
| Thu, July 19
| Fri, July 20
| Sat, July 21
| Sun, July 22
| Mon, July 23
| Tue, July 24
| Wed, July 25
| Thu, July 26
| Fri, July 27
| Sat, July 28
| Sun, July 29
| Where did we drive?