Via Ferrata - Protected Climbing Paths in the Dolomites - Via Ferrata Tomaselli - Descent -

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Via Ferrata
Tomaselli Descent Route

Mountain(s) / Location: Fanes Group	Maximum Height: 2841 m / 9320 ft
Fletcher/Smith Rating: 3C Hofler/Werner Rating: -	[ Show on Satellite Locator Map ]

This page describes an alternate way to get to and from the steep and airy summit of the Punta Sud in the Fanes Group (the most notable way being the Tomaselli Ferrata, of course). This route, known as the Ferrata Tomaselli descent route, is a reasonably stiff ferrata in its own right. It is typically used in descent, but if you aren't up to tackling the difficulties of the Tomaselli ferrata and you still want to visit Punta Sud, then this route is for you. Given that most use this route in descent, this page will describe it that way, starting from the summit of Punta Sud.

From the summit of Punta Sud, head about 20 metres to the southeast (back towards the top of the Tomaselli route). An obvious path will lead down at that point to the left (to the northeast), and in a few metres, the grade steepens and the ferrata wires start.

View from Punta Sud Summit

Ready to head down

Steep Descent

The route leads down over excellent rock across a broad, east-facing flank of the Punta Sud. In most places the route descends steeply-sloped terrain, but every so often there is a short steep step that you must overcome. The route is pretty much always with exposure.

View of Tofana de Rozes

Steep Chimney

Big Exposure

There is vertical (even slightly overhanging) chimney near the bottom of the route that would be quite tricky if it weren't for some strategically-placed stemples. Below this is an airy ramp that leads down to the bottom end of the ferrata at the dirt gap of the Forcella dei Quaire.

Commemorative Plaque

Looking up at route

Descent Gully

From the forcella, a faint and somewhat braided path leads south down a very steep scree and dirt gully. Follow this down to easier terrain, eventually traversing to the right to intercept path 20-b just below Forcella Grande. In early season there will be steep snow in some of these gullies, something to keep in mind if you don't have an ice axe and proper snow skills.

Downclimbing Gully

Crossing Scree

Towards Lagazuoi Grande

Punta Sud From Below

Punta Sud

Approaching Passo Depot

Once on path 20-b, everything is straightforward. Simply follow it south as it traverses underneath the Lagazuoi Grande, passing over Passo Depot and then Passo Travenanzes, and eventually intersecting with path 402.

Punta Sud

Forcella Gasser Depot

Forcella Travenanzes

Follow path 402 (or simply down the grassy ski slopes) back to Passo Falzarego and the parking area.

View from F. Travenanzes

Towards Passo Falzarego

Interactive trackmap with photo points - Tomaselli Descent Route - click map to view

Interactive trackmap with photo points - Tomaselli Descent Route - click to view

Quick Reference Ferrate Route Index

Mountain(s)	Name of Route	Height	Difficulty1*	Difficulty2**
Latemar Group	S.A. Campanili del Latemar	2846m / 9337'	2C	B
Punta Polse	V.F. Attilio Sieff	1450m / 4757'	2A	-
Cima Dodici & Sass Aut	V.F. Franco Gadotti	2637m / 8651'	2C	C
Gran Cir / Grosse Tschierspitze	Gran Cir / Grosse Tschierspitze	2592m / 8503'	1A	A
Piz da Cir V / Tschierspitze V	Piz da Cir V / Tschierspitze V	2520m / 8267'	2A	C
Exner Tower, Sella Group	VF Brigata Tridentina (aka Pisciadu Climbing Path)	2585m / 8480'	3B	D
Little Lagazuoi	Lagazuoi Tunnels	2752m / 9028'	1A	A
Col Rosa	V.F. Ettore Bovero	2166m / 7106'	3B	E
Punta Fiammes	V.F. Michielli Strobel	2240m / 7348'	3B	D
n/a	V.F. Giovanni Barbara	1400m / 4593'	1A	C
Masare	V.F. Masare	2727m / 8946'	2B	C
Roda de Vael (Rotwand)	V.F. Roda de Vael (Rotwand)	2806m / 9205'	1B	C
Cima Auta	V.F. Paolin-Piccolin	2624m / 8608'	3B	C
n/a	V.F. Canalone	1700m / 5577'	4A	-
Colac	V.F. dei Finanzieri	2715m / 8907'	3C	E
La Mesola / Padon ridge	V.F. delle trincee	2727m / 8946'	4B	F
Piz da Lec	V.F. Piz da Lec	2910m / 9547'	3B	D
Cima di Mezzo, Cristallo Group	V.F. Marino Bianchi	3154m / 10,347'	2B	D
Brenta Group	Via delle Bocchette Centrale	2800m / 9186'	3C	D
Pasubio Group	Sentiero Attrezzato Gaetano Falcipieri	2040m / 6690'	2A	-
Monte Casale	Via Ferrata Che Guevara	1632m / 5350'	3C	-
Monte Rochetta / Piccoli Dolomiti	Via Ferrata Fausto Susatti	900m / 3000'	2A	-
Monte Rochetta / Piccoli Dolomiti	Via Ferrata del Centenario SAT	1250m / 4100'	3A	-
Monte Baldo / Piccoli Dolomiti	Via Ferrata delle Taccole	2150m / 7050'	4A	-
n/a	Sentiero Attrezzato Rio Sallagoni	400m / 1325'	4A	-
Fanes Group	Via Ferrata Cesco Tomaselli	2970m / 9733'	5C	F
Fanes Group	V.F. Tomaselli Descent Route	2970m / 9733'	3C	-
Fanes Group	V.F. al Col dei Bos / degli Alpini	2519m / 8265'	3B	-
Monte Lessini / Vicentine Alps	Via Ferrata Carlo Campalani	2157m / 7076'	3B	-
Monte Lessini / Vicentine Alps	Sentiero Alpinistico Angelo Pojesi	1967m / 6455'	2B	-
Shoulder of Cimon della Pala / Pale Group	Via Ferrata Bolver Luigi	3005m / 9860'	4C	F
Pala / Pale Group	Sentiero Attrezzato Camillo Depaoli	2326m / 7830'	1A	-
Pala / Pale Group	Sentiero Attrezzato Dino Buzzati	2500m / 8200'	2C	C
Monte Civetta / Civetta Group	Via Ferrata Alleghesi	3220m / 10,560'	4C	E
Sesto Group	Sentiero De Luca / Innerkofler	2640m / 8660'	2B	D
Sesto Group	Via Ferrata delle Scalette	2618m / 8588'	3B	D
Sesto Group	Sentiero Curato Militare Hosp	2618m / 8588'	2A	-
Sesto Group	Ferrata Nord (al Croda Rossa di Sesto)	2933m / 9624'	2B	B
Punta Anna / Tofana Group	Via Ferrata Punta Anna	2740m / 9000'	5C	F
Tofana di Mezzo / Tofana Group	Via Ferrata Gianni Aglio	3244m / 10,650'	5C	F
n/a	Via Ferrata Ivano Dibona	3008m / 9900'	2B	C
Tofana Group	Sentiero Astaldi	2303m / 7553'	1A	-
Brenta Group	Sentiero SOSAT	2449m / 8036'	2B	D
Brenta Group	Sentiero Oliva Detassis	2822m / 9260'	4B	-
Brenta Group	Sentiero Bocchette Alte	2998m / 9836'	4C	E
Brenta Group	Sentiero Afredo Benini	2901m / 9517'	2C	D

(*) Difficulty rating from the newer Cicerone Guide by Fletcher and Smith
(**) Difficulty rating from older Cicerone Guide by Hofler/Werner

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