Via Ferrata - Protected Climbing Paths in the Dolomites - Via Ferrata dei Finanzieri -

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Via Ferrata dei
Finanzieri

Mountain(s) / Location: Colac	Maximum Height: 2715 m / 8907 ft
Fletcher/Smith Rating: 3C Hofler/Werner Rating: E	[ Show on Satellite Locator Map ]

This page describes a good stout mid-grade ferrata: The via ferrate dei finanzieri (strange name...). Anyhow, the via ferrata dei finanzieri is, I think, a little harder than its grade would indicate. The actual ferrata portion is very long and often exposed, so if you are new to ferrate and you are unsure about them this is probably not your best choice. On the other hand, if you dislike those ferrate that have a good grade but are done in 20 minutes, then this ferrata is for you.

The peak that the ferrata climbs is called "Colac". No Cima Colac, no Piz da Colac... just "Colac". It is a pointy, solitary peak, with lots of bigger and badder mountains around it. Most notorious of these is the highest mountain in the Dolomites, the Marmolada. From the summit you get a good close view of it.

Regional Locator Map

Annotated Topo Map

Elevation profile over distance

While the ferrata itself is good and long, the approach is not. From the community of Ciampac there exists a modern cablecar that can whisk you right up to the elevation of the ferrata start. From there, it is a short mostly flat walk (I'd say mabye 15-20 minutes) to the start of the ferrata. You can survey almost your entire route from base to summit right from the top cablecar station.

Colac

Ciampac Cablecar

Colac's West Face

After walking the 15-20 minutes to get to the start, you are presented with a stoutly designed commemorative plaque and a short bit of ferrata, as a warmup. Soon after this is some steep trail (but no ferrata), and then the start of the real deal. From this point on, it is pretty much continuous wire protection right to the very summit.

Annotated Ferrata Route

Sign to Ferrata

Hiking to the Ferrata's Base

Ferrata Start Plaque

Brian on inter-ferrata portion

Jenn on inter-ferrata portion

The route goes up lots of steep, smooth slabs with lots of exposure, and a few vertical bits as well (also with lots of exposure). Higher up it is a bit less intense and a bit less steep. There are stemples and ladders provided when the going gets really tough. This would be a much harder-grade ferrata without them. One other thing to consider is the possibility of knocking loose rocks down on people below you. This is definitely a possibility on this ferrata.

courtesy BConnell

Andrew on Ferrata

Jenn on Ferrata

The Slab Pitch

Stemples on Slab

The steepest part

Brian and Jenn on very steep terrain

Top of vertical pitch

High up on Colac

Jenn high above Val Di Fassa

Jenn on another steep section

Up to the summit

After a long, long while, you reach one of the main ridges of the mountain. The route comes up through a small cleft, and then more or less follows along just below the ridgecrest to the summit (and the steepness is less along this section). Once you get to the crest, you are quite close to the summit. You'll quite possibly be glad of this, becuase you've just finished a very long bit of climbing!

courtesy BConnell

Brian reaches north ridge

Jenn on summit ridge with Marmolada

Jenn and summit cross, Colac

The summit itself is a relatively small area adorned with an antique-looking summit cross. There are superb views in all directions: to the Sella group, to the Marmolada, to the Padon ridge, etc etc.

Descending the way you came up would be a tricky and unpleasant experience. Fortunately, however, there is a fairly easy way to get down: via an easy-grade, relatively short ferrata. Near the summit you'll notice a red-painted arrow on the rocks, point down the other side of the summit from where you came up. This is the descent route. It starts off with wire protection, never very hard, and descends off of the summit to the south. It is actually quite a pleasant and scenic descent. The route descends through various gullies until it reaches the steep grassy slopes surrounding the mountain. From here, it is a very pleasant hike around (clockwise) the base of the mountain and back into the broad ski valley where the cablecar station is located.

courtesy BConnell

Summit and descent route

Descent route, Colac

Andrew and Jenn on descent

Colac Descent Route

Beautiful Alpine Trail

Hiking with the Marmolada

Trail back to Ciampac

Towards the Ciampac Top-lift station

Jenn hiking to lift station

After a short, pleasant stroll through the grass back to the cablecar station, grab your favourite drink at one of the bars there, then head back down! You can look up at the route you just did from your seat! Nice route - you feel you got your money's worth on this one!

Beers and Colac

Interactive trackmap with photo points - Finanzieri ferrata on Colac - click map to view

Interactive trackmap with photo points - Finanzieri ferrata on Colac - click to view

Quick Reference Ferrate Route Index

Mountain(s)	Name of Route	Height	Difficulty1*	Difficulty2**
Latemar Group	S.A. Campanili del Latemar	2846m / 9337'	2C	B
Punta Polse	V.F. Attilio Sieff	1450m / 4757'	2A	-
Cima Dodici & Sass Aut	V.F. Franco Gadotti	2637m / 8651'	2C	C
Gran Cir / Grosse Tschierspitze	Gran Cir / Grosse Tschierspitze	2592m / 8503'	1A	A
Piz da Cir V / Tschierspitze V	Piz da Cir V / Tschierspitze V	2520m / 8267'	2A	C
Exner Tower, Sella Group	VF Brigata Tridentina (aka Pisciadu Climbing Path)	2585m / 8480'	3B	D
Little Lagazuoi	Lagazuoi Tunnels	2752m / 9028'	1A	A
Col Rosa	V.F. Ettore Bovero	2166m / 7106'	3B	E
Punta Fiammes	V.F. Michielli Strobel	2240m / 7348'	3B	D
n/a	V.F. Giovanni Barbara	1400m / 4593'	1A	C
Masare	V.F. Masare	2727m / 8946'	2B	C
Roda de Vael (Rotwand)	V.F. Roda de Vael (Rotwand)	2806m / 9205'	1B	C
Cima Auta	V.F. Paolin-Piccolin	2624m / 8608'	3B	C
n/a	V.F. Canalone	1700m / 5577'	4A	-
Colac	V.F. dei Finanzieri	2715m / 8907'	3C	E
La Mesola / Padon ridge	V.F. delle trincee	2727m / 8946'	4B	F
Piz da Lec	V.F. Piz da Lec	2910m / 9547'	3B	D
Cima di Mezzo, Cristallo Group	V.F. Marino Bianchi	3154m / 10,347'	2B	D
Brenta Group	Via delle Bocchette Centrale	2800m / 9186'	3C	D
Pasubio Group	Sentiero Attrezzato Gaetano Falcipieri	2040m / 6690'	2A	-
Monte Casale	Via Ferrata Che Guevara	1632m / 5350'	3C	-
Monte Rochetta / Piccoli Dolomiti	Via Ferrata Fausto Susatti	900m / 3000'	2A	-
Monte Rochetta / Piccoli Dolomiti	Via Ferrata del Centenario SAT	1250m / 4100'	3A	-
Monte Baldo / Piccoli Dolomiti	Via Ferrata delle Taccole	2150m / 7050'	4A	-
n/a	Sentiero Attrezzato Rio Sallagoni	400m / 1325'	4A	-
Fanes Group	Via Ferrata Cesco Tomaselli	2970m / 9733'	5C	F
Fanes Group	V.F. Tomaselli Descent Route	2970m / 9733'	3C	-
Fanes Group	V.F. al Col dei Bos / degli Alpini	2519m / 8265'	3B	-
Monte Lessini / Vicentine Alps	Via Ferrata Carlo Campalani	2157m / 7076'	3B	-
Monte Lessini / Vicentine Alps	Sentiero Alpinistico Angelo Pojesi	1967m / 6455'	2B	-
Shoulder of Cimon della Pala / Pale Group	Via Ferrata Bolver Luigi	3005m / 9860'	4C	F
Pala / Pale Group	Sentiero Attrezzato Camillo Depaoli	2326m / 7830'	1A	-
Pala / Pale Group	Sentiero Attrezzato Dino Buzzati	2500m / 8200'	2C	C
Monte Civetta / Civetta Group	Via Ferrata Alleghesi	3220m / 10,560'	4C	E
Sesto Group	Sentiero De Luca / Innerkofler	2640m / 8660'	2B	D
Sesto Group	Via Ferrata delle Scalette	2618m / 8588'	3B	D
Sesto Group	Sentiero Curato Militare Hosp	2618m / 8588'	2A	-
Sesto Group	Ferrata Nord (al Croda Rossa di Sesto)	2933m / 9624'	2B	B
Punta Anna / Tofana Group	Via Ferrata Punta Anna	2740m / 9000'	5C	F
Tofana di Mezzo / Tofana Group	Via Ferrata Gianni Aglio	3244m / 10,650'	5C	F
n/a	Via Ferrata Ivano Dibona	3008m / 9900'	2B	C
Tofana Group	Sentiero Astaldi	2303m / 7553'	1A	-
Brenta Group	Sentiero SOSAT	2449m / 8036'	2B	D
Brenta Group	Sentiero Oliva Detassis	2822m / 9260'	4B	-
Brenta Group	Sentiero Bocchette Alte	2998m / 9836'	4C	E
Brenta Group	Sentiero Afredo Benini	2901m / 9517'	2C	D

(*) Difficulty rating from the newer Cicerone Guide by Fletcher and Smith
(**) Difficulty rating from older Cicerone Guide by Hofler/Werner

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