Via Ferrata - Protected Climbing Paths in the Dolomites - Via Ferrata Paolin-Piccolin -

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Via Ferrata
Paolin-Piccolin

Mountain(s) / Location: Cima Auta	Maximum Height: 2624 m / 8608 ft
Fletcher/Smith Rating: 3B Hofler/Werner Rating: C	[ Show on Satellite Locator Map ]

No easy cablecar approaches for this one! The via ferrata leading up to the top of Cima Auta is moderate in difficulty and exposure, is quiet, but has a somewhat long and tiring approach ascent (probably why it is quiet!). Good views of the south face of the Marmolada from the summit. Descent is mostly via trail with a few very easy via ferrata sections.

Regional Locator Map

Annotated Topo Map

Elevation over Distance

Starting from a trailhead near the little hamlet of Colmean (which is up a little ways from the larger village of Falcade), trail 689 heads up moderately steeply towards the ferrata. It is mostly a wide easy path except that there is a fair bit of elevation to gain. Along the way you can stop at the rustic little Bivacco Giovanni Paolo I for a nice rest stop.

Cima Auta from afar

Trailhead to Cima Auta

Junction on 689

Winding ever up

Bivacco in Clearing

Bivacco Giovanni Paolo I

Above the bivacco, the trail soon breaks out into the open and you can clearly see your objective, Cima Auta, looming above you. The trail gets steeper and heads up through some tiring scree. Your objective is the big gully / ravine to the left of the main summit. It is at the base of this ravine where the ferrata starts. Lots of good views back to the south as you climb above the treeline.

On your way through this area, you'll pass by the junction with the descent route. On your way down, you'll rejoin the ascent route here.

Interior of Bivacco

Trail 689 above the trees

Dolomitic Scree

The ferrata starts off with a plaque and a ladder and a couple of stretchy moves. The terrain then soon gets easier, to the point where you'll probably unclip and just hike up for a while. The route more or less stays in the left hand side (looking up) of the big gully you are in. Part way up the gully is another stretch of ferrata, this time going up a slightly challenging chimney.

Eventually you'll reach the col at the top of the gully where the ferrata ends for a bit. This is a good place to get your first look at the south face of the Marmolada and have a little break.

Andrew below Cima Auta

Ferrata Start Gully

Ferrata Paolin-Piccolin Start

Jenn climbing Cima Auta

Ibex and curiosity

Andrew climbs chimney

From the col, the route heads right and up towards the summit of Cima Auta. If you look up, you can see ferrata protection and ladders climbing up the smooth, steep, slabby rock of Cima Auta's summit. The exposure increases here, but the protection is good, and it will not be long before you are at the summit of Cima Auta and its cute little summit shrine. Excellent views in all directions!

Jenn at the Forcella

Second half on Slabs

Fancy summit marker

Andrew at summit

Descent route

Looking down, normal route

Just below the summit there is a sign labelled 'via normale'. This points in the direction of the descent route, which heads off down the easy descent route. There is a minimal bit of ferrata wire before the route become a steep but very scenic hike. The trail heads generally east, skirting the steep and precipitous cliffs to the south, until a break in them allows a trail to descend and head back west to rejoin your ascent route. The descent through the cliffs goes down through some steep ground that is protected by a few stretches of ferrata wire. Continue back west until rejoining your descent route, then head back down to the trailhead of 689.

Jenn on descent

Cima Auta from the east

Cima Auta Cliffs

Junction on Descent

Mini ferrata descent

Slightly protected

Interactive trackmap with photo points - Paolin-Piccolin ferrata on CIma Auta - click map to view

Interactive trackmap with photo points - Paolin-Piccolin ferrata on CIma Auta - click to view

Quick Reference Ferrate Route Index

Mountain(s)	Name of Route	Height	Difficulty1*	Difficulty2**
Latemar Group	S.A. Campanili del Latemar	2846m / 9337'	2C	B
Punta Polse	V.F. Attilio Sieff	1450m / 4757'	2A	-
Cima Dodici & Sass Aut	V.F. Franco Gadotti	2637m / 8651'	2C	C
Gran Cir / Grosse Tschierspitze	Gran Cir / Grosse Tschierspitze	2592m / 8503'	1A	A
Piz da Cir V / Tschierspitze V	Piz da Cir V / Tschierspitze V	2520m / 8267'	2A	C
Exner Tower, Sella Group	VF Brigata Tridentina (aka Pisciadu Climbing Path)	2585m / 8480'	3B	D
Little Lagazuoi	Lagazuoi Tunnels	2752m / 9028'	1A	A
Col Rosa	V.F. Ettore Bovero	2166m / 7106'	3B	E
Punta Fiammes	V.F. Michielli Strobel	2240m / 7348'	3B	D
n/a	V.F. Giovanni Barbara	1400m / 4593'	1A	C
Masare	V.F. Masare	2727m / 8946'	2B	C
Roda de Vael (Rotwand)	V.F. Roda de Vael (Rotwand)	2806m / 9205'	1B	C
Cima Auta	V.F. Paolin-Piccolin	2624m / 8608'	3B	C
n/a	V.F. Canalone	1700m / 5577'	4A	-
Colac	V.F. dei Finanzieri	2715m / 8907'	3C	E
La Mesola / Padon ridge	V.F. delle trincee	2727m / 8946'	4B	F
Piz da Lec	V.F. Piz da Lec	2910m / 9547'	3B	D
Cima di Mezzo, Cristallo Group	V.F. Marino Bianchi	3154m / 10,347'	2B	D
Brenta Group	Via delle Bocchette Centrale	2800m / 9186'	3C	D
Pasubio Group	Sentiero Attrezzato Gaetano Falcipieri	2040m / 6690'	2A	-
Monte Casale	Via Ferrata Che Guevara	1632m / 5350'	3C	-
Monte Rochetta / Piccoli Dolomiti	Via Ferrata Fausto Susatti	900m / 3000'	2A	-
Monte Rochetta / Piccoli Dolomiti	Via Ferrata del Centenario SAT	1250m / 4100'	3A	-
Monte Baldo / Piccoli Dolomiti	Via Ferrata delle Taccole	2150m / 7050'	4A	-
n/a	Sentiero Attrezzato Rio Sallagoni	400m / 1325'	4A	-
Fanes Group	Via Ferrata Cesco Tomaselli	2970m / 9733'	5C	F
Fanes Group	V.F. Tomaselli Descent Route	2970m / 9733'	3C	-
Fanes Group	V.F. al Col dei Bos / degli Alpini	2519m / 8265'	3B	-
Monte Lessini / Vicentine Alps	Via Ferrata Carlo Campalani	2157m / 7076'	3B	-
Monte Lessini / Vicentine Alps	Sentiero Alpinistico Angelo Pojesi	1967m / 6455'	2B	-
Shoulder of Cimon della Pala / Pale Group	Via Ferrata Bolver Luigi	3005m / 9860'	4C	F
Pala / Pale Group	Sentiero Attrezzato Camillo Depaoli	2326m / 7830'	1A	-
Pala / Pale Group	Sentiero Attrezzato Dino Buzzati	2500m / 8200'	2C	C
Monte Civetta / Civetta Group	Via Ferrata Alleghesi	3220m / 10,560'	4C	E
Sesto Group	Sentiero De Luca / Innerkofler	2640m / 8660'	2B	D
Sesto Group	Via Ferrata delle Scalette	2618m / 8588'	3B	D
Sesto Group	Sentiero Curato Militare Hosp	2618m / 8588'	2A	-
Sesto Group	Ferrata Nord (al Croda Rossa di Sesto)	2933m / 9624'	2B	B
Punta Anna / Tofana Group	Via Ferrata Punta Anna	2740m / 9000'	5C	F
Tofana di Mezzo / Tofana Group	Via Ferrata Gianni Aglio	3244m / 10,650'	5C	F
n/a	Via Ferrata Ivano Dibona	3008m / 9900'	2B	C
Tofana Group	Sentiero Astaldi	2303m / 7553'	1A	-
Brenta Group	Sentiero SOSAT	2449m / 8036'	2B	D
Brenta Group	Sentiero Oliva Detassis	2822m / 9260'	4B	-
Brenta Group	Sentiero Bocchette Alte	2998m / 9836'	4C	E
Brenta Group	Sentiero Afredo Benini	2901m / 9517'	2C	D

(*) Difficulty rating from the newer Cicerone Guide by Fletcher and Smith
(**) Difficulty rating from older Cicerone Guide by Hofler/Werner

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