Via Ferrata - Protected Climbing Paths in the Dolomites - Via Ferrata Tomaselli -

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The ferrata wire leads off horizontally to the left, and the situation is immediately quite airy. This is 'the nose' section of the Tomaselli route, and it's a good test of your liking of this route. The holds here are small and downsloping, and if you can manage this section in mountaineering boots without holding on to the wire, then you are a very good climber. Fortunately, the wire is tight and new, with little slack (as of 2010, anyway).

courtesy JInnes

The Nose

Steep Ground

Looking down, Ferrata Tomasel

After the nose section, the wire turns upward and a quite strenuous steep climb up good rock ensues. The angle relents a bit higher up, and then the wire ends. Next is a steep path with good footing. There are periodic steel eyelets driven into the ground every so often next to the path (which aren't really required for anything, as the path is quite manageable).

Intermediate Path

Walls of Punta Sud

The path continues higher, then turns back into more steep ferrata on good rock, then eventually back to steep path before reaching the base of more vertical cliffs. The path then runs along the base of the cliff -- unprotected, and with exposure -- until you reach the crest of a steep arete of rock coming down from above. Around the corner formed by the arete is a path that serves as an escape off of the route.

Also at this arete, the wire protection resumes. This marks the beginning of the final stretch of climbing to the summit.

Note: The Fletcher-Smith guide mentions a junction with another wire somewhere in this vicinity that leads left to the Cima Scotoni galleries. I didn't notice this alternative route when I climbed in the summer of 2010. It's possible that I simply missed it, however.

Exposed Ledge

Path, then wire

Start of final section

The wire starts off boldly near the crest of the arete, with lots of exposure all around. There are lots of good holds here, but that changes higher up, where there is a section that has much smaller holds and even more exposure. The wire is very firmly in place, though, so you feel well-protected. Although I don't remember the specifics of the next section, I do recall that the climb continued, often steeply and often quite strenuously, until we reached a knife-edged, very exposed arete -- The 'a cheval' stance that the Fletcher and Smith guidebook mentions.

courtesy JInnes

Steeper, Less Holds

Climbing the Last Slabs

Down to 'a cheval' stance

The position on the narrow crest is quite breathtaking. You are near the top of the Punta Sud now, and there are huge dropoffs on either side. One looks straight down on huge towers and crags from directly above.

Climbing a steeply-angled but flat wall with decent holds and lots of exposure brings you in relatively short order to the sharp-edged crest of the ridge and the ferrata suddenly ends. You've reached the top of Punta Sud!

courtesy JInnes

Final, Steep Terrain

Looking down, Tomaselli

The top of the ferrata isn't actually the very top of Punta Sud. To reach it, hike along the faint path along the now mostly-flat ridgecrest to the highpoint. Along the way, you'll see the top of the path that leads down to the descent ferrata. Remember this spot - you'll need to take it to get down.

Topping out

Punta Sud Summit

After soaking in the beauty and feeling of accomplishment on Punta Sud, prepare to head down. Keep your ferrata gear on, because the descent route is a fairly stiff via ferrata in its own right. For the description of the descent route, follow this link (it's essentially a different ferrata, and so is documented on a different page).

Interactive trackmap with photo points - VF Tomaselli - click map to view

Interactive trackmap with photo points - VF Tomaselli - click to view

Quick Reference Ferrate Route Index

Mountain(s)	Name of Route	Height	Difficulty1*	Difficulty2**
Latemar Group	S.A. Campanili del Latemar	2846m / 9337'	2C	B
Punta Polse	V.F. Attilio Sieff	1450m / 4757'	2A	-
Cima Dodici & Sass Aut	V.F. Franco Gadotti	2637m / 8651'	2C	C
Gran Cir / Grosse Tschierspitze	Gran Cir / Grosse Tschierspitze	2592m / 8503'	1A	A
Piz da Cir V / Tschierspitze V	Piz da Cir V / Tschierspitze V	2520m / 8267'	2A	C
Exner Tower, Sella Group	VF Brigata Tridentina (aka Pisciadu Climbing Path)	2585m / 8480'	3B	D
Little Lagazuoi	Lagazuoi Tunnels	2752m / 9028'	1A	A
Col Rosa	V.F. Ettore Bovero	2166m / 7106'	3B	E
Punta Fiammes	V.F. Michielli Strobel	2240m / 7348'	3B	D
n/a	V.F. Giovanni Barbara	1400m / 4593'	1A	C
Masare	V.F. Masare	2727m / 8946'	2B	C
Roda de Vael (Rotwand)	V.F. Roda de Vael (Rotwand)	2806m / 9205'	1B	C
Cima Auta	V.F. Paolin-Piccolin	2624m / 8608'	3B	C
n/a	V.F. Canalone	1700m / 5577'	4A	-
Colac	V.F. dei Finanzieri	2715m / 8907'	3C	E
La Mesola / Padon ridge	V.F. delle trincee	2727m / 8946'	4B	F
Piz da Lec	V.F. Piz da Lec	2910m / 9547'	3B	D
Cima di Mezzo, Cristallo Group	V.F. Marino Bianchi	3154m / 10,347'	2B	D
Brenta Group	Via delle Bocchette Centrale	2800m / 9186'	3C	D
Pasubio Group	Sentiero Attrezzato Gaetano Falcipieri	2040m / 6690'	2A	-
Monte Casale	Via Ferrata Che Guevara	1632m / 5350'	3C	-
Monte Rochetta / Piccoli Dolomiti	Via Ferrata Fausto Susatti	900m / 3000'	2A	-
Monte Rochetta / Piccoli Dolomiti	Via Ferrata del Centenario SAT	1250m / 4100'	3A	-
Monte Baldo / Piccoli Dolomiti	Via Ferrata delle Taccole	2150m / 7050'	4A	-
n/a	Sentiero Attrezzato Rio Sallagoni	400m / 1325'	4A	-
Fanes Group	Via Ferrata Cesco Tomaselli	2970m / 9733'	5C	F
Fanes Group	V.F. Tomaselli Descent Route	2970m / 9733'	3C	-
Fanes Group	V.F. al Col dei Bos / degli Alpini	2519m / 8265'	3B	-
Monte Lessini / Vicentine Alps	Via Ferrata Carlo Campalani	2157m / 7076'	3B	-
Monte Lessini / Vicentine Alps	Sentiero Alpinistico Angelo Pojesi	1967m / 6455'	2B	-
Shoulder of Cimon della Pala / Pale Group	Via Ferrata Bolver Luigi	3005m / 9860'	4C	F
Pala / Pale Group	Sentiero Attrezzato Camillo Depaoli	2326m / 7830'	1A	-
Pala / Pale Group	Sentiero Attrezzato Dino Buzzati	2500m / 8200'	2C	C
Monte Civetta / Civetta Group	Via Ferrata Alleghesi	3220m / 10,560'	4C	E
Sesto Group	Sentiero De Luca / Innerkofler	2640m / 8660'	2B	D
Sesto Group	Via Ferrata delle Scalette	2618m / 8588'	3B	D
Sesto Group	Sentiero Curato Militare Hosp	2618m / 8588'	2A	-
Sesto Group	Ferrata Nord (al Croda Rossa di Sesto)	2933m / 9624'	2B	B
Punta Anna / Tofana Group	Via Ferrata Punta Anna	2740m / 9000'	5C	F
Tofana di Mezzo / Tofana Group	Via Ferrata Gianni Aglio	3244m / 10,650'	5C	F
n/a	Via Ferrata Ivano Dibona	3008m / 9900'	2B	C
Tofana Group	Sentiero Astaldi	2303m / 7553'	1A	-
Brenta Group	Sentiero SOSAT	2449m / 8036'	2B	D
Brenta Group	Sentiero Oliva Detassis	2822m / 9260'	4B	-
Brenta Group	Sentiero Bocchette Alte	2998m / 9836'	4C	E
Brenta Group	Sentiero Afredo Benini	2901m / 9517'	2C	D

(*) Difficulty rating from the newer Cicerone Guide by Fletcher and Smith
(**) Difficulty rating from older Cicerone Guide by Hofler/Werner

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