Willow Gulch/40-Mile Backpack, Day 2
Monday, September 30
 
                        
                                                
                     
                                    
                
              
              
        
             
               
               
              
                 
                    
                        
                    
                    
                 
              
              
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                          
                          
                          
                            
                          
                       
                       
                    
                    
                 
                 
              
              
              
              
              
              
                
                
                     
                     
                     
                        
                          We hadn't had a very long hike the day before (only about 4 miles / 6.5 km), and we had a similarly short distance to go to complete the loop (see, I told you this was an easy backpack), so we didn't feel the rush to get up or get going that early.   It was a beautiful morning, mild and still.  We discussed the remainder of our loop over breakfast.
40-mile Gulch has some slightly more difficult (and possibly deeper) watery obstacles than had Willow Gulch, and during our morning chat, we agreed that it would be best if we at the very least put on our lower wetwear (neoprene, etc).  We held off on whether or not to wet-proof our packs, though, until we saw what we were up against.
                        
                                                
                     
                     
              
                
              
              
        
             
               
               
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
              
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                          
                          
                              
                          
                          
                            
                          
                       
                       
                    
                    
                 
                 
              
              
              
              
              
              
              
        
             
               
               
              
                 
                    
                        
                    
                    
                 
              
              
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                          
                          
                          
                            
                          
                       
                       
                    
                    
                 
                 
              
              
              
              
              
              
                
                
                     
                     
                     
                        
                          The initial bit of walking upstream from our campsite was rather bushy, and not all that much to write home about.   But soon after that, we encountered an amazingly beautiful stretch of canyon walking.  Maybe it was just the ideal angle with respect to the morning sun that made it feel so nice (the sun was shining directly up the canyon from behind us), I don't know.   All I know is that the combination - lush green riverside rushes and cattails, a line of hanging-garden seeps, graceful curves of orange slickrock above, a clear, murmuring creek (complete with a little school of fish), it all combined to make it a particularly sublime spot.   The perfect combo of dry desert scenery up high and this narrow strip of watery life down low.  And there was no deadfall or debris anywhere to mar the purity of the scene.  Really nice stretch, that.
                        
                                                
                     
                     
              
                
              
              
        
             
               
               
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
              
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                          
                          
                              
  
     
     
           
          
          
          
          
          
          
            
               
            
            
                
                
                    
                
            
             
              
                 
                 
                    
                      
                      
                      
                           
                          
                          
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                          	courtesy JInnes
                              
                                                             
                    
                    
              
             
           
     
   
   
    
         
        
    
         
        
    
         
        
            
             
            Hairy Evening Primrose, 40-mile Gulch 
             
             
           
         
    
   
 
 
                          
                          
                            
                          
                       
                       
                    
                    
                 
                 
              
              
              
              
              
              
              
        
             
               
               
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
              
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                          
                          
                              
  
     
     
           
          
          
          
          
          
          
            
               
            
            
                
                
                    
                
            
             
              
                 
                 
                    
                      
                      
                      
                           
                          
                          
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            Beautiful Morning in 40-mile Gulch 
             
             
           
         
    
         
        
            
             
            Delicate flower in morning light 
             
             
           
         
    
   
 
 
                          
                          
                            
                          
                       
                       
                    
                    
                 
                 
              
              
              
              
              
              
              
        
             
               
               
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
              
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                          
                          
                              
  
     
     
           
          
          
          
          
          
          
            
               
            
            
                
                
                    
                
            
             
              
                 
                 
                    
                      
                      
                      
                           
                          
                          
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                          Soon after what I'll call the "beautiful stretch" came a stretch of cool, shadowy slot, varying from about 5 to 10 feet wide and bordered on either side by vertical or subway-tube like walls.   The water was flowing more slowly through here, still extremely clear, but also now deeper.  Gino went ahead to do his human-dipstick-ing.
                        
                                                
                     
                     
              
                
              
              
        
             
               
               
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
              
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                          
                          
                              
  
     
     
           
          
          
          
          
          
          
            
               
            
            
                
                
                    
                
            
             
              
                 
                 
                    
                      
                      
                      
                           
                          
                          
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                          Gino discovers that the deepest of the water is no more than waist deep, so we once again elect to keep our packs on and not get out any dry bags or other water protection.   We begin to encounter a series of small steps, cascades and waterfalls, some flowing over smoothed bedrock, and some over chockstones wedged in the canyon bottom.   None are more than four or five feet high, and none with water more than waist deep.    For one or two of the most difficult, we do decide to ferry the packs (to ease the climbing difficulty).  
                        
                                                
                     
                     
              
                
              
              
        
             
               
               
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
              
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                          
                          
                              
  
     
     
           
          
          
          
          
          
          
            
               
            
            
                
                
                    
                
            
             
              
                 
                 
                    
                      
                      
                      
                           
                          
                          
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            Clear Water and Small Waterfall 
             
             
           
         
    
   
 
 
                          
                          
                            
                          
                       
                       
                    
                    
                 
                 
              
              
              
              
              
              
              
        
             
               
               
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
              
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                          
                          
                              
  
     
     
           
          
          
          
          
          
          
            
               
            
            
                
                
                    
                
            
             
              
                 
                 
                    
                      
                      
                      
                           
                          
                          
                          	courtesy BConnell
                              
                                                             
                    
                    
              
             
           
     
           
          
          
          
          
          
          
            
               
            
            
                
                
                    
                
            
             
              
                 
                 
                    
                      
                      
                      
                           
                          
                          
                          	courtesy BConnell
                              
                                                             
                    
                    
              
             
           
     
           
          
          
          
          
          
          
            
               
            
            
                
                
                    
                
            
             
              
                 
                 
                    
                      
                      
                      
                           
                          
                          
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                          Overall, this section of water narrows is just the right level of interesting and difficulty for us to enjoy ourselves.  This is fun.   The only downside is that the combination of water temperature and the cool shade of the narrows means some of us tip over into a bit of shivering.   Thoughts soon turn to finding the next curve in the canyon that is aligned with the sun so we can have a nice warm-up break.
                        
                                                
                     
                     
              
                
              
              
        
             
               
               
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
              
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                          
                          
                              
  
     
     
           
          
          
          
          
          
          
     
           
          
          
          
          
          
          
            
               
            
            
                
                
                    
                
            
             
              
                 
                 
                    
                      
                      
                      
                           
                          
                          
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            Approaching final waterfall 
             
             
           
         
    
   
 
 
                          
                          
                            
                          
                       
                       
                    
                    
                 
                 
              
              
              
              
              
              
              
        
             
               
               
              
                 
                    
                        
                    
                    
                 
              
              
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                          
                          
                          
                            
                          
                       
                       
                    
                    
                 
                 
              
              
              
              
              
              
                
                
                     
                     
                     
                        
                          Not more than ten minutes after climbing the last mini-waterfall, we encounter just such a spot - a widening of the canyon and a sandy bench with a big old cottonwood that has fallen across the creek. It's in the full view of the morning sun and we stop for a nice long snack and warm-up break.
                        
                                                
                     
                     
              
                
              
              
        
             
               
               
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
              
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                          
                          
                              
  
     
     
           
          
          
          
          
          
          
     
           
          
          
          
          
          
          
            
               
            
            
                
                
                    
                
            
             
              
                 
                 
                    
                      
                      
                      
                           
                          
                          
                          	courtesy JInnes
                              
                                                             
                    
                    
              
             
           
     
           
          
          
          
          
          
          
     
   
  
 
 
                          
                          
                            
                          
                       
                       
                    
                    
                 
                 
              
              
              
              
              
              
              
        
             
               
               
              
                 
                    
                        
                    
                    
                 
              
              
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                          
                          
                          
                            
                          
                       
                       
                    
                    
                 
                 
              
              
              
              
              
              
                
                
                     
                     
                     
                        
                          Above our rest break spot, the canyon narrows up again, but now we can see that the flow of water is starting to diminish.   We still have to wade in the creek bed, but now it's not any more than shin deep, and often only ankle deep.   The canyon walls are still pretty high here, though, and there are more beautiful overhanging alcove curves.
Then, abruptly, we reach the bottom of a high dropoff in the canyon floor, maybe thirty to forty feet high, with a narrow cave-like slot through which the now-diminished flow of the creek is sprinkling and falling down from above.   We quickly locate a vegetated ramp adjacent to this dropoff that has a distinct footpath leading up it.   This allows us to climb up and around to the top of the dropoff.
                        
                                                
                     
                     
              
                
              
              
        
             
               
               
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
              
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                          
                          
                              
                          
                          
                            
                          
                       
                       
                    
                    
                 
                 
              
              
              
              
              
              
              
        
             
               
               
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
              
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                          
                          
                              
  
     
     
           
          
          
          
          
          
          
            
               
            
            
                
                
                    
                
            
             
              
                 
                 
                    
                      
                      
                      
                           
                          
                          
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                          Above the dropoff, it's like someone has flipped a switch.  Then canyon immediately starts to widen out, and the creekside terrain becomes much more arid.    
There's much less hiking in the creek bed above the dropoff, too - and a distinct footpath often leads across benches above the creekbed.   We stop at one final spot where the water is still flowing reliably so that we may clean off our water shoes and put them away, as it is clear that we can stream-hop the water from here on up.
                        
                                                
                     
                     
              
                
              
              
        
             
               
               
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                    
                 
              
              
              
                 
                    
                    
                       
                          
                          
                              
  
   
    
         
        
            
             
            Becoming more open, drier