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With a relatively short 2nd day planned, we did not make a super-early 'alpine start', and got up at approximately 4:30 am. It was already starting to get a little light, and with our relatively slow pace of progress, it was fully light and the sun above the horizon by the time we were packed up and ready to go shortly after 6:00 am.

Our task for today was relatively simple: head up a bit of easy glacier to the base of the Boulder Cleaver, then climb snow and crumbly rock to the it's upper end. Here, I'd heard, were a couple of good tent spots where we could stop for the night. We would then be well-positioned height-wise for a less-than-2000 foot ascent to the summit the next morning.
Early morning prep
On easy glacier
Forest and Snow
We got roped up for glacier travel and head on up towards the cleaver. The early morning snow was firm enough that we chose to wear crampons, and we crunched up over mostly uncrevassed snow-covered glacier to the base of the cleaver. It was another warm and clear day in the north west, resulting in somewhat hazy views of the mountains off in all directions.
Cleaver and Summit
Morning Snow
Blue Hazy Ridges
We reached the base of the cleaver, and took a break at the edge of some gravelly, muddy ground. The nice thing about the section of our route on the cleaver is that the snowfields on the cleaver are not underlain by glacier, and so it is not necessary to rope up for glacier travel, or to check for crevasses.
Break on the Cleaver
Transitioning to Rock
Scrambling on the Cleaver
We continued on, climbing up the cleaver, staying on the snow where possible. At one point we were forced to climb on a steeper section of rock on the cleaver. This was a slightly hairy proposition, since almost all rock on cascade volcanoes is crumbly and loose. We found a passable way up through this rock band, taking extra care to try and not dislodge the loose, cruddy stuff. Eventually we surmounted this and continued up on more snowfields. It wasn't long after this that we reached the good tent spots, right at around 8,750 feet on the crest of the ridge.

We dropped our packs and had a look around at the terrain. There were a couple of very decent flat camp spots, so that wasn't a problem. What was a problem (or seemed so, at the time) was our view of the remainder of the climbing route. From this angle, I couldn't see a reasonable way up past some very large crevasses that seemed to span across the entire width of the Boulder Glacier. If we couldn't get around these, there wasn't any other way (for climbers of our skill) to get up to the summit. What had looked passable from below was not looking all that passable from this closer vantage point.
Our High Point
For some time now (from the time we first saw the Boulder route from below, in fact), I could tell that Jenn had been a bit apprehensive about this upper section of the climb. I too was now beginning to wonder if this was for us, and when I voiced my thoughts on this, Brian and Caroline quickly chimed in in agreement. In a few minutes, we'd pretty much decided that the route above looked like it was 'beyond our skill level'.
Sherman Peak
The question was now about what to do... It was only just after noon, and we could definitely choose to camp here. Maybe we could go up and do a little scouting around after setting up camp, but that would involve possibly traipsing around on big glaciers in the heat of the day, which was perhaps not the best idea (although the snow actually seemed in a very decent state). Another thought was growing in my mind, though -- one that I felt had a greater chance of success. We could start descent immediately, setting up camp low on the ridge, and well positioned for a quick hike out to the trailhead the next morning. We could then go back to the ranger station and register for a climb of the easier Easton Glacier route, which no doubt had an established path over an easier glacier to the summit. I worked out the details in my head, and we had enough time to pull it off before needing to head back to Vancouver for Brian and Caroline's return flights. The question was... would everyone want to do it?
Brian at an excellent campspot
I discussed this idea with everyone. Brian seemed the most keen on the idea, with Jenn in the middle and Caroline tending towards the least keen.

Even with the mixed reaction to my idea, I figured that this was our best chance to achieve the summit. Perhaps they'd change their mind once down at the ranger station the next day. And so with that, we quickly got our packs on and started back down the way we came up. We'd definitely made a safe choice, but were we being a little too cautious? Had I made the right choice?
Ready to head back down
Brian and Cleaver
Glissading down Cleaver
On our way down, we got enjoy another nice benefit of being on the cleaver. Since we knew the snowfields here had no crevasses under them, we were free to glissade where it was convenient, and this made for an enjoyable descent. The downclimbing of the crumbly rocky section was again tedious and tricky, but we managed to get down it without dislodging any major rock. A final bit of glacier climbing at the bottom of the cleaver brought us back to our 6,000 foot campsite, where we unroped.
Brian's Glissade
Glissading down the Cleaver
Descending, descending
As part of our desire to shorten the next morning's hike out, we continued on down Boulder Ridge to a spot closer to treeline, setting up in a beautiful bit of heathery meadow with some rushing meltwater close by. It was an even more idyllic spot than our first camp spot, and was still breezy and bug-free to boot. Most pleasant!
Descending, descending
Another beautiful campsite
Sun on Sherman Peak
Back Stretch
Brian and his Nemesis
Trees and Glacier
As we were lounging about at camp, I turned my attention back to Baker, and our planned route. I looked closely at it from this angle, and to my dismay, I noticed that a trick of perspective from our 8,750 foot vantage point had hidden what looked like a horizontal access ramp that led above the big crevasses that had been my concern. I began to realize that I indeed was probably too quick in my decision to turn around. Furthermore, I had detailed pictures from this lower vantage point in my camera, and I could have reviewed those while up there, and come to this same conclusion. It was looking more and more like I'd made a too-hasty judgement back up on the ridge. Well, hopefully I could get everyone to agree to a re-ascent on the other side, and all would be well.
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