After roping up, we further refined our plans by deciding to forego the fixed belay station, and instead to "simulclimb". This is a technique where all climbers are moving at the same time, increasing time efficiency at the expense of having a completely secure belay. It would be just the kind of thing one might try on a relatively modest mountaineering route. Good for practice.
Roland led off, winding up over a set of short vertical steps and terraces, and eventually placing a few ice screws when his runout reached about 30 feet. A few more tens of feet and a couple of more screws finally saw the rope 'reach' Sara (who was in the middle position), and she started off simultaneously climbing along Roland's path, with myself still below belaying them both.
courtesy RHanel
courtesy RHanel
Although Heffalump is one of Gatineau Park's longer ice climbs, it is still not that long - perhaps 110 feet of vertical and perhaps 160 or 170 horizontally along the rope. Therefore, our "simulclimb" saw Roland nearing the top of the route by the time I actually got to start climbing, so the actual time fully simulclimbing was quite short. But, this was more about practicing technique than about real necessity.
Roland was soon atop the route and belayed Sara and I up, with Sara clipping past Roland's protection and with me cleaning up at the end. The afternoon skies cleared off as we ascended, and by the time we were all at the top, it had turned into a gloriously sunny (but cool) spring day. The ice we were climbing on was definitely melting, and we could hear the rushing water of the stream behind the ice. Still, overall the ice's structure was sound - for now.
After regrouping at the top, we set up a top belay and lowered ourselves, one by one, to the largest of the steps in the cliff, in order to practice a bit of more vertical climbing. That brought us to 5pm, and we then dismantled our setup and alternately belayed, rappelled, and walked down to the base.
Heffalump, from different angle
MMH at the end of the day
